blade changing

[kokopelli2]

guys what the best way to change the blades on a brush cutter? it looks to me that the best/only way is to remove the stumpjumber and then replace the blades. ofcourse i could be wrong.

i am working with a very old massey cutter by the way. i would say late 60's early 70's.

 

[Hoeman00]

Most cutters have a hole in the deck behind the gearbox to allow a socket to remove the nut.
If u don't have a hole, u could use a gas axe (torch) or a hole saw and put one in the deck.
U will need to measure where to put it so it will line up.
A 3/4 or 1" impact works great to knock them off.
If not watch out for the big cheater pipe, they bite.
Last chance is just torch it off and put new bolts and nuts in, this should be done anyway.

 

[Soundguy]

I just went out to help change the blades on my stepfathers howse rotary cutter, as I notice dthe blades are excessively loose.. only to find out.. no access hole!

Actually have to pull the cotter pin and crown bolt and drop the stump jumper... Now I'm even more glad I got my KK.. as a howse was also a possibility.

Speaking of rotary cutters.. and possible 'cheap' designs, I was buy the local Case dealership, looking at a mahindra they had out front, and they had some imported rotary cutters out to the side being assembled. The supports from the upright A-fram for the 3pt that travel to the back on most other cutters you see was a chain on this unit! I've never seen that before.

It had an a-frame upright.. and then instead of rigid supports going to the back... a single ( yet beefy enough (3/8's? ) chain.

If I get back by I'll get a picture. Didn't recognize a name as I wasn't close enought to see them through the fence...

Anyone see anything like this?

Soundguy

Soundguy

 

[slowrev]

Soundguy,
My old 5' Brush Hog brand cutter is that way. Works great thru the dips and over the humps.

 

[JerryG]

<font color="blue"> It had an a-frame upright.. and then instead of rigid supports going to the back... a single ( yet beefy enough (3/8's? ) chain. </font>
The A-frame is hinged, so that it can fold back toward the gear box. Like has been said, that design works good in rough areas and over ditches.

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Actually have to pull the cotter pin and crown bolt and drop the stump jumper )</font>

Did you do it? I had to jury rig a gear puller to get mine off after removing the cotter pin and crown nut. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif I was intending to cut an access hole myself, like my Bush Hog had, but never did do it.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( supports from the upright A-fram for the 3pt that travel to the back on most other cutters you see was a chain on this unit )</font>

The Bush Hog Squealer I bought in 1995 was the same way; don't know why they later changed to the rigid metal instead of the chain. Personally, I'd prefer the chain style.