Bleeding Fuel System, Broke it

[branman1971]

Been putting her back together since changing the transmission screen, fluid, and flushing radiator and coolant system. I reinstalled my clean fuel filter without priming in first and of course got air in my lines. I looked up old posts of bleeding the fuel system and started with the bleeders on the fuel filter. Got some bubbles out of both and then moved to the pump. I was amazed at how easy the bleeder screw unscrewed and then realized that the head of the screw had twisted right off and diesel was "peeing" out all over my boot. Bummer...I was so hoping to fire it up tonight. I guess I will need to order the bleed screw. I wonder if there is something I can use in the meantime??? Don't know the thread size and all but I bet it is a Japanese thread like my temp sensor was.

 

[Kays Supply]

I am pretty sure it is a 10mm bolt. If you take one from a fender etc. you could use it until you find a replacement. You will want one without the attached fender washer. Use the gasket from the original bolt. You can still bleed from it, but it will be messy.

 

[California]

I found a simple bolt used as a bleeder screw in my second Yanmar. I think it is the size bolt that takes a 10mm wrench. Your local box store should have one like that to use until you can get the drilled one, or as Kay said just steal one off the sheet metal somewhere.

Branman if you replaced the temperature sensor, could you do us all a favor and measure the thread size on the old one? We have tons of folklore and I don't recall any hard data - which you could resolve for all time!

I suggest a new thread appropriately titled so that information will be easier to find in the future. Thanks!

 

[careyo63]

The bleeder screw is just another thing that needed to be addressed. Just as well happened while your going through everything and correcting the problems. From your posts it sounds as if you have about taken care of and cought up on your maint. I'm guessing your Hyd. Fluid / filter change went pretty much uneventful :thumbsup:

Carey

 

[branman1971]

Branman if you replaced the temperature sensor, could you do us all a favor and measure the thread size on the old one? We have tons of folklore and I don't recall any hard data - which you could resolve for all time!

I suggest a new thread appropriately titled so that information will be easier to find in the future. Thanks!

No problem...My NAPA here couldn't make a decision on the thread size though. Wasn't pipe thread, wasn't standard, wasn't metric, etc...I will take it somewhere else and find out though.

 

[branman1971]

The bleeder screw is just another thing that needed to be addressed. Just as well happened while your going through everything and correcting the problems. From your posts it sounds as if you have about taken care of and cought up on your maint. I'm guessing your Hyd. Fluid / filter change went pretty much uneventful :thumbsup:

Carey

Yep Carey, replaced the screen and filled her up and haven't been able to test out the hydraulics yet but soon. Thank you...

 

[branman1971]

I am pretty sure it is a 10mm bolt. If you take one from a fender etc. you could use it until you find a replacement. You will want one without the attached fender washer. Use the gasket from the original bolt. You can still bleed from it, but it will be messy.

I stole a 10mm out of my fender and it fit, but it's pretty long compared to the old, and to get the bolt to seal I will need to screw it all the way down. Does anyone know if there is anything I could damage by seating this bolt all the way down? I halfway attempted to remove the entire fitting that the bleeder screws into to check for depth but it was in there tight and again, I am scared of breaking stuff.

 

[Argosy]

Did the screw that broke off have an O ring or copper washer under the head for a seal?

Pipe thread is tapped at an angle, narrower at the bottom than the opening. That's how it seals.

If you use a bolt in pipe thread the thread pitch may be the same but it won't seal for long because the bolt isn't tapered. I'm guessing the housing is aluminum (soft), eventually the straight bolt is going to destroy the angled threads.

 

[normde2001]

Looks like you not only broke the screw, but the banjo bolt as well.

 

[Transit]

I stole a 10mm out of my fender and it fit, but it's pretty long compared to the old, and to get the bolt to seal I will need to screw it all the way down. Does anyone know if there is anything I could damage by seating this bolt all the way down? I halfway attempted to remove the entire fitting that the bleeder screws into to check for depth but it was in there tight and again, I am scared of breaking stuff.

I dont know if your bleed screw is like mine with a tapered tip. You may get away with a temporary fix but as suggested use the correct part or risk replacing something more expensive.