Blown in insulation and can lights.

[RSKY]

Thanks to all of you for your input. The can lights were installed in the last five years, but at different times. I'm going to go the LED route and cover the cans with insulation. We will use the blower that chops up small bales and blows it in thru a tube. They are rented at Lowes and people that have used them seem to like the results. Our house is not badly insulated, it is just that the old stuff has been raked around over the years and is not even. Of course this means I've got to replace some other things in the attic but I would rather do that now while I'm in my sixties than when I'm in my seventies.

Once again, thanks to all for your input especially EddieWalker whose post made up my mind.

RSKY

 

[JRobyn]

That's if they trip at all!

I am still looking for a "whole panel" arc fault sensor that could trip a main breaker.

I use these: Square D QO SurgeBreaker Surge Protective Device Takes 2 Load Center Spaces-QO2175SB - The Home Depot

Not arc fault I know, but maybe SquareD has something similar for arc fault?

- Jay

 

[firemech]

Can lights are either IC or non-IC. IC = insulation contact.
BUT, Home Depot has some slim base LED lights that replace the incandescent/halogen or whatever you're using now for 2 bulbs for under $10. The face of the bulb fits the can opening like a regular flood, and the base of the bulb is tapered down toward the receptacle. They are Phillips 9.5Watt, replacement for 65 Watt soft white, dimmable, etc. A 10 year extended warranty is available by registering the bulbs...
The part # is: 046677456887 BR30 LED SLIM SW 2PK 2@9.98

These are what I'm replacing my kitchen can lights with, as we 'speak'. Don't put insulation over your attic ceiling cans without making absolutely sure it is safe to do so. If it were me, I'd use blown in cellulose. you can rent the machine at home centers and buy the cellulose there too. It is WAY more effective than fiberglass batts.

If you blow in Cellulose MAKE SURE YOUR POT LIGHTS ARE COMPATIBLE. I am a firefighter and have seen houses burn down and have emptied many attics of cellulose due to overheated pot lights igniting the cellulose. The burn then "tunnels" through the cellulose and re-ignites often many feet from the initial source. Blown in fiberglass insulation might melt around the light but doesn't tunnel like cellulose does. Just sayin'

 

[Industrial Toys]

When I blow my attic, I will actually use rock wool. I work too often in my attic and have never liked the dust from cellulous (sp?).

As far as the arc fault breaker goes. I have numerous nice buildings and not one iota of insurance. If anything burns, it's probably going to be via electrical fault. It should not be too hard to detect the signature of an arcing circuit. I mean, if you play with a electric kettle plug just right, you can hear it arcing on an AM radio. I would rather be left in the dark and have to figure out what or where the problem is then have a fire.

 

[4570Man]

I work too often in my attic and have never liked the dust from cellulous (sp?).

Me neither, but it beats the heck out of fiberglass.

 

[AGRIMAN]

Our roof is spray foamed. No other attic insulation is used. In this case, the attic is not ventilated and becomes part of the conditioned space of the home.

:thumbsup:

 

[JimRB]

People say the 8,000 cubic feet of attic becomes conditioned space. Does that mean the HVAC unit is sized to condition that space?

 

[EddieWalker]

We will use the blower that chops up small bales and blows it in thru a tube. They are rented at Lowes and people that have used them seem to like the results.

Thank you.

Is a remodeler/contractor/handyman, I've blown insulation into about two dozen homes. It's a very simple thing to do, but there are a few things I've learned over the years. First, make sure you pick up more insulation then you think you will need. You have to return the machine anyway, so it's no big deal to return a couple of bags with it. In my part of the country, we want R60 in the attic. That's close to two feet thick of blown insulation. I mark a few rafter supports to know where two feet is and then I can eyeball it from there. Once you cover the ceiling joists, it's hard to know how thick you are. Be sure not to cover up your soffit vents or pack the insulation right up to your roof sheathing. Air needs to flow from those vents and if you block it, you will end up with moisture issues in your attic.

Plan on picking up everything the day before. You want to be in the attic as early as possible. Even though it's easy work, you are still up there for hours and it gets pretty warm by noon.

The only blown insulation that I recommend getting is Attic Cat from Owens Corning. It's at Home Depot, not Lowes. In my area, it's also at McCoys and it's a little cheaper there than Home Depot. Everyone includes the machine for free. It is more expensive per bale, but when you figure out the amount of coverage you get, it all equals out. The biggest advantage with Attic Cat is that you do not need to wear a mask!!!!!! I have a very nice, heavy duty, duel filter mask that I've worn for years using the other types of insulation. Since discovering Attic Cat, it's been sitting on a shelf and probably will remain there forever. On top of not needing a mask, it does not itch like the other stuff. I'm not saying it's a picnic, but it's by far the easiest to deal with insulation out there.

It takes two people to do the job. Make sure you have enough hose. The machine usually comes with 100 feet, which is plenty for most homes.

One person is up in the attic the entire time holding the hose. Start at the far end and work your way back. Remember, once you blow in the insulation, you never, EVER, want to go up there again. For the insulation to do it's job, it must look like virgin snow. If you go through it, you create a break in the insulation that is equal to leaving a window open in your house.

The other person is feeding the machine. Again, one of the big advantages to Attic Cat over the other types is how easy it is to feed the machine. There is very little mess compared to the other brands and it doesn't clog up like the other brands do. There is nothing like being up in the attic in a very uncomfortable position and the insulation stops coming out. You wait, nothing happens, and after awhile you go down to find out what's wrong and whoever is helping you is trying to figure out how to unclog the machine. When it happens a second time, you will wish you took my advice and went with the Attic Cat!!!

 

[dmccarty]

We have blown in insulation in the attic and it is made of fiber glass. It will not catch on fire, at least not with a match. I know because I tried to get it to burn. When I was looking to spec the insulation in hour new house, I read that Cellulose was supposed to have fire retardant sprayed on it. I was just paranoid about cellulose burning, and our old house had it and that stuff seemed to be pretty dusty in the attic so we had the fiberglass blow in.

Having said that, our attic is dusty and while we have a large amount of ventilation, it is from ridge and eave vents which I would have thought would have minimized dust. :confused3: Point being, I would buy a REALLY nice mast to wear up in the attic, not a throw away N95 mask that is all but impossible to work in while working. I have a really nice mask I bought when tearing out our bathrooms and the mask worked really well. I was not coughing up stuff after working and I could work while wearing the mask. Not fun but doable. I find an N95 mask all but impossible to work in while wearing it.

Later,
Dan

 

[SPIKER]

Note that there are options such as buying can light covers (molded duck board) that you place OVER the can lights prior to installing insulation. If the can lights are only a few years old chances are they may be IC rated.

If you cant find the pre-fab covers then making your own is not difficult using some foil faced duct board or iso insulation boards & foil backed tape. tape em up and down over the can lights 6" bigger than the light leaves plenty and then put a flag on top so you know where they are AFTER it is blown in leave the cheap tree/shrub planting type or the type used to mark underground cables as small flags.

Mark