Boom cylinder seal repair 580 B

Robert Cosgrove · Nov 8, 2011

I just purchased a Case 580B, the boom cylinder is leaking pretty bad

Is it best to have the cylinder all the way in or out to remove the cylinder do you need to remove the entire cylinder or can you get away with just removing the rod.

The fluid look grey is this good or bad does the fluid condensate and make it grey.

Rufus

allenr · Nov 9, 2011

I'm no expert but I think you should get away with just removing the rod and piston assembly.

I reckon I'd have the cylinder extended so you don't have to pull the rod and piston out so far against the vacuum - possibly you can have the dipper adjusted so the boom cyl is still slanted upwards so all the oil doesn't run out.

Maybe have the dipper/bucket against a tree or something so it can't slip away gradually -and bucket crowded in.

No I don't think the oil should be grey and condensation should not occur, having said that I don"t think grey is as worrisome as white.

Robert Cosgrove · Nov 9, 2011

AllanR thanks for your reply I should correct myself I need to replace the dipper cylinder seal. So my qusetion is what is the best position for the backhoe to be in. My concern is once I disconnect the dipper pins will the boom move or collapse.

Rufus

KYErik · Nov 9, 2011

When I did the dipper seal on my Case 530 (I assume the 580 is similar), I straightened the dipper out all of the way and layed it out flat on the ground so that it was against the stop. I then removed the outer pin (it should not have any pressure on it), tilted the cylinder up slightly and extended the rod while the machine was running. Then I unscrewed the end of the cylinder and pulled out the rod the rest of the way with a come a long (no need to disconnect hoses or remove the pin on the tractor end of the cylinder). If your fluid is contaminated, you'll want to drain in all a refill so no need to prevent all of the oil in the cylinder from draining out.

allenr · Nov 10, 2011

I agree with KYErik's advice.

If your dipper has a stop that will prevent any further movement.

I don't think the dipper on my 428 has a stopper - just the cylinder, so I think that would be harder to relieve the strain on the cyl pins.

Ford tractor · Nov 11, 2011

Grey fluid is light water contamination. It's a new to you machine, you should be draining and replacing all fluids anyway. I don't care what the prior owner said, fluids always get changed.

Unless you physically restrain the boom, it will drop and hurt something. You, the floor, the door, you. I like to either use a hoist or a 2nd tractor loader to hold the bucket and take the boom weight. That's a help when putting the sucker back together. Just don't try to line things up by sticking in your finger. I know of a guy that tried that and now he can only count to 9 & 1/2.

While you may be able to slide the rod out against worn seals -- you may need to use a come-a-long. You WON'T be able to put the rod back with new packing by hand. I use a large engine piston ring compressor to compress the packing, then a ratchet strap around the cylinder to pull it down. Slow and easy is your friend. Go too quick or cock it at an angle and you cut those new seals.

Robert Cosgrove · Nov 11, 2011

Wow, what a day, after rebuilding the piston and gland I had clean some rust and crud from the cylinder it was only a small area so my jack knife did the trick.

I tried two different piston ring compressors but neither would fit into the cylinder so did it they old fasio way with lots of finese I put the rod in the cylinder very carefully lined up got it past the first set of seals on the piston. Once that was done I simple threaded the gland in all the way this helped to line up the rod with cylinder. I used the hydraulics to suck it back in, it went pretty fast maybe an hour and the dipper works fines with no leaks.

The next thing I did was put a tube in right front tire and pump it up.

I also changed the transmission fluid because it was slipping realy bad it would barely move. I drained the old stuff which I thik was the wrong weight of gear oil because it so thin it was comparable to water. Case dealer said
85 - 140W so that is what used, it made a big difference know it has power to move around like it should.
I guess tomorrow I will be able to tell how well it works. It was a bit of a gamble when I bought it given the issues but it seems fine fo know.

Something I noticed when I took the tire and rim off the spindle dropped down about 1 1/4". this doesn't seem right to have that much verticle movement, it looks like there is a spacer missing or thess are the wrong spindles on the front on both sides.

Does anyone have any experience with the verticle movement of the spindles
Rufus