Boomer advice for the complete novice

[alligatorob]

I just (picked up Wednesday) purchased a 2013 Boomer 40 with the shuttle transmission, it had 114 hrs on it when I got it. This is my first tractor, and it's been 40+ years since I last operated a tractor.

I put my first 3 hrs on it this morning and am feeling a bit overwhelmed. I used the FEL to try and move a little dirt from and old pile and smooth a few holes far from anything I could hurt. About all I feel good about is that I was careful, went slow, and did no damage, otherwise I didn't accomplish much.

I have a few basic questions, and will probably have more later:

• First is where, other than reading all the posts here, would I find some basic guidance on tractor operation? I read the manual a couple of times and it helped familiarize me with where most everything is, but not how to do things with the tractor.
• It seems that the way to operate is to set the transmission range to what seems right and then use the transmission main shift lever for most gear changes. Is that right? I'm trying to figure out why this thing needs 16 gears.
• When moving dirt with a lot of back and forth can I just set the hand throttle and take it in and out of gear? What rpm would be safe to do that in? The hand throttle seems easier to use than the foot, and the old tractors I drove years ago only had the hand throttle. Do I really need to use the foot throttle?
• How much side slope is too much? I have a few steep places and don't want to risk roll over.
• How can I be sure I know where all the grease zerks are? Any in places that wouldn't seem obvious or logical?
• Any advice on working with the FEL? My first task is to build more driveway, starting with some leveling and then gravel. The tractor came with a nice box blade and a backhoe. I know I will need to use the box blade soon, but I'd like to get more comfortable with the FEL first.

Any and all sage advice for operating and owning a piece of equipment like this would be appreciated. I know a bit about cars, light trucks, and power boats, enough to know that someone who has worked with these things for years knows a whole lot more than a beginner like me.

The backhoe will have to sit a while. If I had my choice of attachments I would not have gotten the backhoe, but it was part of the deal, and down the road I will probably get use out of it.

 

[fried1765]

I just (picked up Wednesday) purchased a 2013 Boomer 40 with the shuttle transmission, it had 114 hrs on it when I got it. This is my first tractor, and it's been 40+ years since I last operated a tractor.

I put my first 3 hrs on it this morning and am feeling a bit overwhelmed. I used the FEL to try and move a little dirt from and old pile and smooth a few holes far from anything I could hurt. About all I feel good about is that I was careful, went slow, and did no damage, otherwise I didn't accomplish much.

I have a few basic questions, and will probably have more later:

• First is where, other than reading all the posts here, would I find some basic guidance on tractor operation? I read the manual a couple of times and it helped familiarize me with where most everything is, but not how to do things with the tractor.
• It seems that the way to operate is to set the transmission range to what seems right and then use the transmission main shift lever for most gear changes. Is that right? I'm trying to figure out why this thing needs 16 gears.
• When moving dirt with a lot of back and forth can I just set the hand throttle and take it in and out of gear? What rpm would be safe to do that in? The hand throttle seems easier to use than the foot, and the old tractors I drove years ago only had the hand throttle. Do I really need to use the foot throttle?
• How much side slope is too much? I have a few steep places and don't want to risk roll over.
• How can I be sure I know where all the grease zerks are? Any in places that wouldn't seem obvious or logical?
• Any advice on working with the FEL? My first task is to build more driveway, starting with some leveling and then gravel. The tractor came with a nice box blade and a backhoe. I know I will need to use the box blade soon, but I'd like to get more comfortable with the FEL first.

Any and all sage advice for operating and owning a piece of equipment like this would be appreciated. I know a bit about cars, light trucks, and power boats, enough to know that someone who has worked with these things for years knows a whole lot more than a beginner like me.

The backhoe will have to sit a while. If I had my choice of attachments I would not have gotten the backhoe, but it was part of the deal, and down the road I will probably get use out of it.

I will be happy to help!
Bring it over to my place, and I'll let you watch me use it for a year or so.

 

[George2615]

Congrats on the tractor purchase.

For loader work I prefer HST over gear but you have a gear tractor. When I did run gear tractors (20 plus years ago) I chose a mid range and used the gear shift for speed, usually 1st or 2nd gear. RPM was usually between 1500-1800 and could be left there while using the clutch to change gears. The range selected depends on how fast the tractor ground speed is in that range and may vary from tractor to tractor. To scoop dirt / gravel etc. I'd set the bucket down level and lift and curl as I entered the pile. Others may differ as even you may with this procedure. The more practice you get the faster you will be able to go.

For side hills you can get a level gauge to stick on (just like a curved bubble on a level). The safe angle I'd guess is 25-30* but that depends on the type of tires and how low the center of gravity is, etc. More like a seat of the pants feel. If it feels too steep it probably is. Keep the ROPS up and wear your seat belt.

Grease fitting locations should all be listed in the owners manual as well as how often to grease and do other service. Generally, a couple shots of grease in every fitting about every 10 hours of use is all that's needed. Keep records of greasing, filter and fluid changes writing down the date and hours.

I couldn't justify a new BH when I bought my tractor because I don't do much BH work. I did buy a used BH and adapted the sub frame to fit for the times I do need to use it which is only a few times a year.

 

[alligatorob]

Thanks George, good advice!

Put the second 3 hr on this afternoon, its starting to feel a little better. But I can see it's a learning curve and I'am at the bottom right now.

 

[oosik]

When I use the bucket to move material, I go low & slow. Bucket flat on the ground and curl up as you enter the pile and keep the loaded bucket LOW. Remember, everyone was where you are now - at one time. Seat time will give you added skill levels and confidence.

Read and understand your OP manual and follow what George says in post #3. It would be wise to stay away from slopes until you have more seat time and get a better feel for the tractor.

 

[GregP27]

Another take on the grasing is from a friend with MANY years experience. He told me that his tractors last a LONG time and he follows this procedure --- he greases it every time he hasses it up.

When I say grease, I don't maen go crazy. I mean to apply grease the first time until you see it start to appear, and then use2 - 3 shots on the grease gun in each zerk after that, at the appropriate time. Use the manufcturer's recommended grease.

He also gave this advice on tiure pressure. Get on lkevel pavement, with the tires aired up higher than recommended. Let air out until the edges of the tread flukes just touch down. That's the right air pressure. And ... it changes with weight. That is, if you do FEL work, get a full bucket and try the same with the bucket in the air a slight bit. Air up and continue. Return to normal after you stop the FEL work.

Advice not from me, but froma guy with long experience. He also says to keep the gas tank full after the first fillup. Note the hours on the first one and figure a fill up about very same. So, if youn first tank needs a fill at, say, 12 hours. Round it to 10 and grease every 10 and keep the tank 3/4 full or more when finished with work to minimize water accumulation. If you run it to 1/4 and THEN fill, grease then and fill. If the weather gets wet or cold, keep it more full when done for the day.

 

[oosik]

I always have either my grapple or bucket on the FEL. I run the front tires at max pressure as indicated on those tires. The rear tires are run at a pressure that allows the flukes to just touch, all the way across the tire. I grease every ten hours. I fill my fuel tank to full after every use - whether it takes one gallon or ten.

In 35 years of tractor use I've never had a drop of water in the water seperator on the tractor. A lot of my success with - no water - is due to our very low humidity here - IMHO(in my humble opinion) and keeping the tractor fuel tank full at all times.