Boomer Class III Improvements

paccorti · Apr 10, 2002

After about 2 years in the saddle I thought I'd share some thoughts on improvements to the Class III Boomers (TC35/40/45). All comments relate to the "D" models.

1. If possible lower the ROPS height. The spec says the ROPS is 95". An 8' garage door is 96". I'd like to see a little more leeway if possible maybe 92" ROPS height. I don't think this would affect safety.

2. Add 3 range OR beef up HST to take heigher than 5000psi relief pressure. I can, rarely, (with loaded tires, heavy rear implement and REAL good traction) pop the HST relief valve. I'd like a little more down low grunt (creeper gear option)? Anyone know what the HST relief valve pressure is on a Kubota L?

3. I used to think the Boomer hydraulics were a little slow. NOT anymore! At 2600 rpm and a heavy load in the bucket the hydraulics are plenty fast (enough to rock the tractor). Still sometimes I'd like better breakout force particularly when working on some stumps. Perhaps a 2 stage implement pump: normal 9.8 gal/min at 2500psi and then perhaps 4 gal/min at 3000 psi. This would substantially increase breakout force and loader lift capability (assuming the rest of the tractor is up to these forces). 4 link bucket is excellent and has a very good dumping angle.

4. Seat and ergos are fine, can't think of any obvious improvements there.

5. Personally I don't consider HST pedal effort high so I'm not sure that I'd appreciate an e-hydro feature much. If the e hydro did help the HST pedals return to neutral in cold weather then I guess I'd be all for it. I do like the two pedal vs. treadle pedal design better. AND don't even think of taking my dual power shift away

6. Maybe this is heresy but try to remove some of the under tractor grease points. I haven't lubed a car in a long time... do I really need to lube so many parts on a tractor? Maybe eliminate the lube points for steering. That would be a big improvement.

7. Fix/beef up the little problems. Broken HST pedal (never happened to me), leaky coolant plug and radiator bypass problem, etc.

8. Improve R4 treads so that they are more swept back and clear mud better. Put rear valve stems on outer part of rims instead of inside (easier to check pressure), protect valve stem from damage in similar fashion to front tires.

I tried to keep the improvements modest so that the tractor cost does not spiral out of control. Certainly a larger more powerful tractor would address some of these concerns but I don't think my improvements are unreasonable. That's all that comes to mind now... anybody else?

Peter

DVerbarg · Apr 10, 2002

- How about a retractable seat belt?

- Front facing headlights mounted above the turn signals above the rear fenders and rear facing worklights

- Controls for 3pt lift that work a little smoother (like the old 8N did)

- An optional armor plate for the undercarriage

- Somehow make the seat slide easier. Needs very regular lubrication

- In addition to the super creeper "gearing" it would be nice to have a "road" gear ratio that would reach 18 to 20 mph. The 14 mph feels slow after using utility tractors that reach the 20 mph range. Maybe both the creeper and higher range could be accomplished by having three gear ranges. Of course we keep the "dual range" selection.

spencer200 · Apr 11, 2002

There are OSHA regulations that cover ROPS as they pertain to slops to the front of the tractor. So I am sure there is not much that can happen there this is why a folding ROPS was provided.

Mosey · Apr 12, 2002

I have a TC29D, which is not exactly what this thread is about, but the roll bar is similar, I think anyway. It folds down and the brackets that stick out for the pin to go in when it’s up are right in line with the back of my head if I lean back and to one side. So, if I were to roll it and get whipped around just right - ouch! I guess I could wear a helmet, but that shouldn’t be necessary. It’s also in the way of the tool box (which is right behind the seat) when it’s down.

I think a better design would be to have a collapsible roll bar with 2 sizes of square tubing so that the top part fits inside the bottom part (like the way a 2” tow hitch fits into the receiver) and the top slides up and down with pins to hold it in place. That way there would be nothing sticking out in the front and it would not be in the way of the tool box when it’s down.

mikim · Apr 12, 2002

how 'bout a real toolbox - something we all try to retrofit to meet our own needs - but starting out with a box big enough to hold more than pliers and gloves would be a step ahead
mike

DVerbarg · Apr 12, 2002

<font color=blue>a box big enough to hold more than pliers and gloves would be a step ahead</font color=blue>
Any ideas about where an additional toolbox can be placed on the ClassIII Boomers? I thought the toolbox was pretty good. Get as much in mine or more then my parents get in theirs on a MF 275. Carry an assortment of clevis pins, hitch pins, gloves, 30ft chain, PTO shaft cover (when not on the PTO shaft-most of the time), large crescent wrench, and pliers. It is rather stuffed and a little pain in the rear to get items in and out, everything needs to be in the "right" place or it won't fit. Would like to have two separate boxes, one for tools and the other for "accessories" like the pins.

bobnewjersey · Apr 12, 2002

I have a TC40D and I'd love to see fewer grease fittings, and definately an undercarrage shield to protect the wiring, etc. Some kind of tool box would be a hugh improvement over the cup holder/glove box that is there now. AND as long as I'm on the subject, a can holder that actually will hold the can. (NH should tap the marine industry for a good one.)
I'd love to see a NH cab with air conditioning and good heat/defogger. I can't find anyone with a cab with air. (Orange sells one from the factory that's very nice for their's) Has anyone come across a NH cab with air for the TC's?
But overall, it's still the best tractor out there, in my opinion.

wihakowiSteve · Apr 13, 2002

In re: larger tool box location. I was looking the other day and was thinking about fabricating some sort of "spring" arms that held a box that could be snugged around the top of the fuel tank. Kind of like a saddle arrangement.
Challenges would be:
Jiggling loose when on rough terrain? Not a very handy height when reching from the ground (already hard enough to add fuel way up there!).

Other thought I've had was to fabricate (or find stock?) a tall narrow box that would fit snugged in behind the seat. Might face the same frustration as with then stock Boomer box in that everything would really have to be stored away "just so". I'm just not that organized - need something I can just throw stuff into and retrieve it easily later!
Steve

tc35dforme · Apr 13, 2002

Steve,

A buddy of mine is in the midst of fabricating a bracket that will span between the two rops uprights and carry a 'plate' just above the fuel tank behind the seat. He said it will be plenty strong to support a toolbox and I'll bolt a fire-extinguisher to it. We're gonna either weld a bracket to each side of the rops of just drill through and use a 3/8" pin to hold it in place. I figure some rubber sheet material as a interference shim to cut down on jigglin'.

I know its against the grain to drill through the rops ( affecting structural integrity ) but I can't see two 3/8" drill holes cenetered in the box tube causing any significant weakening.

I'll try to post some pics in a week or two once we get the proto-type installed.

Soundguy · Apr 15, 2002

From an engineering standpoint.. I would advise against welding anything to the rops structurp.. or even drilling it. The effects would be more than negligible. The dealerships even use friction mounts when installing cannopies... not bolt holes.

U shaped bolts, with locking plates and friction material shout accomodate your needs without compromising the rops structure.

Soundguy