Boomer TC35 not starting in cold

mpilihp · Jan 3, 2018

So my new to me this summer TC35 would not start last night. I had not run it in a week and the temps are bitterly cold, was -5 last night. I had put a mag mount warmer on it and it did not help. Turned over extremely slow.

I could also have gelling of the fuel, I will try warming the filter next time but I would like to install a inline radiator hose block heater.

It looks like the lower hose is only .540" ID viewing it online, is that correct?

Has anyone installed one and if so where did you install it and what make/model did you use?

Thank You

~ Phil

Jerry/MT · Jan 4, 2018

mpilihp said:
So my new to me this summer TC35 would not start last night. I had not run it in a week and the temps are bitterly cold, was -5 last night. I had put a mag mount warmer on it and it did not help. Turned over extremely slow.

I could also have gelling of the fuel, I will try warming the filter next time but I would like to install a inline radiator hose block heater.

It looks like the lower hose is only .540" ID viewing it online, is that correct?

Has anyone installed one and if so where did you install it and what make/model did you use?

Thank You

~ Phil

My advice to you regarding a block heater is to get a block heater that installs in the block not a radiator hose. Your new Holland dealer should have one and they are not expensive and they are most likely easier to install. they just flat work better! Plugged in for 2-3 hours, your engine will start easier.

If your fuel tank has summer diesel in it you could have a problem with wax precipitating out of the fuel due to cold ambient temperatures or you could have water from condensation in the fuel tank accreting ice on fuel filters, water separators, the tank outlet strainer and the fuel lines. Getting the tractor in to warm place can help deal with both of these issues over time. If you have a metal filter/water separator, you can use a blow dryer to heat these components as well as the tank bottom outlet, filter head, and fuel lines and if they have drains, drain out the water. If you have jelled fuel, heat can help that also. Treat your summer fuel with a good additive (Howe's or Power Service White, etc). Power Service 911 can help with jelled fuel but follow the instructions. You can also add #1 diesel to the fuel to blend it to a winter mix.

To minimize condensation, try to keep you fuel tank full, drain the filter/water separator regularly and collect the drainage in a clear container and look for water in it. If you see any, continuing draining before every start up until it goes away. Then drain it once a week and check. You can lengthen the intervals based on experience.

Hope this helps you.

mpilihp · Jan 6, 2018

Jerry/MT said:
My advice to you regarding a block heater is to get a block heater that installs in the block not a radiator hose. Your new Holland dealer should have one and they are not expensive and they are most likely easier to install. they just flat work better! Plugged in for 2-3 hours, your engine will start easier.

If your fuel tank has summer diesel in it you could have a problem with wax precipitating out of the fuel due to cold ambient temperatures or you could have water from condensation in the fuel tank accreting ice on fuel filters, water separators, the tank outlet strainer and the fuel lines. Getting the tractor in to warm place can help deal with both of these issues over time. If you have a metal filter/water separator, you can use a blow dryer to heat these components as well as the tank bottom outlet, filter head, and fuel lines and if they have drains, drain out the water. If you have jelled fuel, heat can help that also. Treat your summer fuel with a good additive (Howe's or Power Service White, etc). Power Service 911 can help with jelled fuel but follow the instructions. You can also add #1 diesel to the fuel to blend it to a winter mix.

To minimize condensation, try to keep you fuel tank full, drain the filter/water separator regularly and collect the drainage in a clear container and look for water in it. If you see any, continuing draining before every start up until it goes away. Then drain it once a week and check. You can lengthen the intervals based on experience.

Hope this helps you.

Hi thanks so i did manage to get it started using a magnetic oil pan heater and i used a hair dryer on fuel filter. I added fuel winter additive and filled tank.

So where is the water seperator and water drain on a TC35? My last tractor was old and tires and i juat disnt use it in winter so did not have these water issues, always startes in the spring.

Ill ask my dealer but im leary of pulling a freeze plug on my own and its wxpensive to trailer to dealer. Thats why i wantes to try the hose heater first.

Thank you

Phil

MiserableOldFart · Jan 16, 2018

First, you should be sure you have the right oil in the crankcase. I use a relatively thick oil in my TC26DA (15-40 I think) and it's only recommended down to 10 degrees, so I don't fool with the tractor under 10. Second, at least in my case, the starting problems always arise in the (tiny on my machine) fuel filter, which is so small and such a tight fit, it's never fun to fool with in the cold. I would drain some from the bottom of your tank, a quart or so just to be sure it's not water, and be sure to fill the tank after you use it. A partially filled tank is an invitation for condensation in cold weather. Add some of the anti gel, as you did, to your fuel, and keep an extra fuel filter handy so you can swap one out if you need to, and bring it somewhere warm to thaw. A little diesel 911 in the filter bowl usually gets things going. Are you sure your glow plugs are working? But with an engine turning slowly, I would be really sure to be using a cold weather engine oil blend first of all before anything else.

Also it helps to have a booster box handy, as using the glow plugs for extra time seems to work the battery pretty hard in the cold. But if the glow plugs are working and it's getting fuel, you should seldom have to crank it for more than a second or two. The glow plugs on my machine, at least, continue to heat after the indicator light goes out, so you can use them past that point, if you are not already.

jbrumberg · Jan 16, 2018

I agree with the previous posters.

Good #1 Diesel in the Winter with a good additive as mentioned. The PowerService White Bottle reduces cloud point/gelling temperatures. One can use the White bottle year round as directed. PowerService 911 Red Bottle is to remove water from the diesel fuel. It should only be used to remove water and not regularly like the White bottle.

Using a Mr. Funnel fuel/water separator filter will remove water from the fuel during fueling the tank. I never had diesel water problems when I used a Mr. Filter.

Definitely get an engine block heater. It's less hassle to install than cutting a radiator hose and trying to cram the preheating recycling pump into spaces where it does not want to fit (BTDT with a Ford 1100).

I recently also installed a 110/120V thermostatically controlled (85F) hydraulic fuel filter heater. It helps warm the hydraulic fluid; especially the filter and surrounding areas. It seems to help. I have yet to install the 110V/120V battery heating pad that I purchased.

There are a couple of decent, recent posts/threads on cold weather challenges.

I preheated the tractor for 3 hours in 0F temperatures and it started easily. My double load of PowerService dropped the cloud point/gelling point to somewhere between -10F to -7F.

AWSubie · Jan 16, 2018

You might also consider taking the battery out and bringing it into the house to stay warm until you go out to the tractor. Cold weather is brutal on batteries.

jbrumberg · Jan 16, 2018

I agree about cold weather negatively impacting on batteries not often used in Winter temperatures.

Switching a battery in and out as needed works, but is a PITA. For me I choose to heat the battery, hydraulic fuel filter, and battery simultaneously during the warmup cycle.

I have a fairly new battery. I also did some research of heating batteries safely. It appears that toggling the fuel injector preheaters twice prior to starting discharged the battery enough to warm it up somewhat at least warm enough to start easily at 0F. I might not not need the battery heater, but since I have one I'll install it when it is warmer outside.

Halftrack · Jan 19, 2018

I would consider switching to Rotella T6, 5w-40 oil and run it year round. Unbelievable difference in cranking ease at those near zero temps.

George2615 · Jan 19, 2018

Agree with others.
I switched to Rotella T6 5W-40 at my first change.

If kept in an unheated area a good battery tender will keep the battery topped off for faster spins. Cold weather can drain a batteries cranking amp reserve quickly.

I used Power Service white bottle for years without problems.

A lower hose heater will be of great help. I don't have one on my current tractor since I keep it inside where it doesn't get below 40 degrees but I did have one on my last tractor. I believe my lower hose was 1 1/4" ID and I used an inline Katz heater I got from the auto parts store. I think it was 700 watts and put in the lower hose. Heat rises so the heated coolant would rise through the engine and into the radiator pushing the colder coolant back to the heater creating a slow flow. Plugged in for 2-3 hours prior to using it would heat the coolant to about 130-140 degrees which made for easier starting. I had mine plugged into a programmable appliance timer to start warming it up before I got home from work.

You'll need to know your radiator lower hose ID to get the proper size inline heater.