3-Point Hitch Bought the TSC County Line PHD......we shall see said the blind man.
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atsah
Elite Member
The clay up here is like cement.. I have a LP PD10 for my GC, it works okay, not great just okay.. I installed PT 4x4's 13 years ago and don't have any weakness in my fencing.. Go down 6 inchs and pulls it back up, down another 6 and pull it up and so on so it doesn't lock down in there..
oosik
Epic Contributor
I have many 4x4 treated posts in my ground - some for over 35 years. I did nothing to "treat" the ground and they are still solid. My soil is quite acidic.
I think your concern regarding your new auger is correctly placed - its the ground that counts. I've seen commercial TLB units have difficulties pulling 12" augers out of the ground. One operation had a 1500 gallon water tanker truck standing by. Auger would go a foot - the "dig" would be flooded with water - the auger would be extracted - water shot into hole - auger would continue. Foreman indicated that the previous week the big U-joint on the auger went Ka-plooie when the auger stuck in the ground. That was why they had the water.
I think your concern regarding your new auger is correctly placed - its the ground that counts. I've seen commercial TLB units have difficulties pulling 12" augers out of the ground. One operation had a 1500 gallon water tanker truck standing by. Auger would go a foot - the "dig" would be flooded with water - the auger would be extracted - water shot into hole - auger would continue. Foreman indicated that the previous week the big U-joint on the auger went Ka-plooie when the auger stuck in the ground. That was why they had the water.
widefat
Platinum Member
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and I think I shared this story here a while back. The first time I used my PHD (also a County Line), I spun up the PTO to 540rpm, because that's the normal PTO Speed right? I just didnt think it through. As soon as I dropped the auger and the tip hit the ground, it disappeared on it's way to Hades. The tractor engine bogged down and the front wheels lifted a bit. The **** pucker factor increased exponentially. The good part was it lasted only about 2 seconds before the shear bolt did it's thing. It sure did seem like a long time though.
What I learned? Only throttle up enough to dig - which isnt much. And take it a little at a time.
OP
cdaigle430
Veteran Member
That sounds like its worth a try, I have water on site. Will try this weekend but I need to buy some oil to fill the gearbox first. Watch a video of one guy who made a "foot" out of wood to keep the auger from burying itself to deep, worked pretty well.
oosik
Epic Contributor
I've not seen many holes with augers around here. Its almost all T-133 steel posts and barbed wire. Those I have seen were all big commercial, industrial hydraulically driven units.
However - I've had my own experience with my Milwaukee Hole Hog and my ships augers. I "bore" my pine stumps to encourage rotting. More that once I've had an auger stick in a trunk and I play the merry-go-round game with the hole hog. I always loose.
However - I've had my own experience with my Milwaukee Hole Hog and my ships augers. I "bore" my pine stumps to encourage rotting. More that once I've had an auger stick in a trunk and I play the merry-go-round game with the hole hog. I always loose.
GeorgiaRebel
Member
I have the TSC County Line PHD and have dug many holes with it using my MF 135. My biggest issue has been that the PHD has a tendency to want to lean to one side or the other and the hole is not straight.
I have a pig pen that I built using 4x4s. The posts are still strong just like they were when the pen was built. I did not treat them with anything when I put them in the ground.
Georgia clay can be hard as a rock, but I never had any issues with the PHD not being able to dig through it. I just went slow and easy and let the augur do its work.
Alan
I have a pig pen that I built using 4x4s. The posts are still strong just like they were when the pen was built. I did not treat them with anything when I put them in the ground.
Georgia clay can be hard as a rock, but I never had any issues with the PHD not being able to dig through it. I just went slow and easy and let the augur do its work.
Alan
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
The Countryline brand of augers is the third brand that I've owned. The first two where very difficult to dig in hard packed clay. They mostly just spun around a lot and it was a challenge to get them do anything. Out of desperation I bought the Countryline brand and gave it a try. It shocked me how easily it went through my soil. In fact, it dug so quickly and easily that I had to relearn how to dig holes because it would bury itself if I wasn't really careful. This was all with a 12 inch auger. You need to be super careful in how much pressure you put on the auger, and how long you let it dig before pulling it up and cleaning out the hole. Lots and lots of up and down.
No matter how careful you are, you will bury it. I have a 4 foot pipe wrench to turn the auger backwards, out of the hole. This is very difficult to do, so I add a 6 foot long pipe to the handle to get more leverage. First time that I did this, I used a 3 foot pipe wrench and I broke the wrench.
One day I got the crazy idea that if I had a smaller auger, it would be easier to pull up and I would have less trouble burying the auger in the ground. It turns out that the opposite is true. The smaller auger digs even faster and easier then the bigger one. It's extremely difficult to control and keep from digging too fast. The last time I used it, I bent the drive shaft that powers the auger. My tractor is 35hp and I'm unable to control how quickly that auger goes through my soil. I might sell it the 9 inch auger, or just remove the cutting teeth off it for my 12 inch auger and throw it away. I don't want to use it again.
With your super small 6 inch auger, I would be super apprehensive of how quickly it goes through your soil. As already mentioned, just idle your engine and take it super slow. Keep the hole clean by lifting it out of there over and over again. And most importantly, have a plan on how to get the auger out of the ground if you bury it!!!
No matter how careful you are, you will bury it. I have a 4 foot pipe wrench to turn the auger backwards, out of the hole. This is very difficult to do, so I add a 6 foot long pipe to the handle to get more leverage. First time that I did this, I used a 3 foot pipe wrench and I broke the wrench.
One day I got the crazy idea that if I had a smaller auger, it would be easier to pull up and I would have less trouble burying the auger in the ground. It turns out that the opposite is true. The smaller auger digs even faster and easier then the bigger one. It's extremely difficult to control and keep from digging too fast. The last time I used it, I bent the drive shaft that powers the auger. My tractor is 35hp and I'm unable to control how quickly that auger goes through my soil. I might sell it the 9 inch auger, or just remove the cutting teeth off it for my 12 inch auger and throw it away. I don't want to use it again.
With your super small 6 inch auger, I would be super apprehensive of how quickly it goes through your soil. As already mentioned, just idle your engine and take it super slow. Keep the hole clean by lifting it out of there over and over again. And most importantly, have a plan on how to get the auger out of the ground if you bury it!!!
GeorgiaRebel
Member
Eddie, Cool idea on the pipe wrench to back out the augur. Never thought of doing that.
Alan
Alan
OP
cdaigle430
Veteran Member
Thanks-great advise.