Rake Box blade and landscape rake... what size?

[Bob_Skurka]

i will be basically dragging and spreading from the original dump location

If the drivers are dumping the truckloads of gravel at various points ON your driveway then the boxblade will drag stone along your drive. If the drivers are dumping piles and you are intending to move the stone from the piles to the drive then I fear you will be leaving stone all over the lawn, you will be tearing up the lawn, you will also be dragging bits of lawn into your drive, etc. I think you will be far better off moving the stone with your FEL and then smoothing it with an angled landscape rake, a land plane, etc. I'm presuming you already have the driveway in place but it is in bad shape? If so then make sure you do all your preparation work before the stone is dumped.

 

[mississippi mud]

If the drivers are dumping the truckloads of gravel at various points ON your driveway then the boxblade will drag stone along your drive. If the drivers are dumping piles and you are intending to move the stone from the piles to the drive then I fear you will be leaving stone all over the lawn, you will be tearing up the lawn, you will also be dragging bits of lawn into your drive, etc. I think you will be far better off moving the stone with your FEL and then smoothing it with an angled landscape rake, a land plane, etc. I'm presuming you already have the driveway in place but it is in bad shape? If so then make sure you do all your preparation work before the stone is dumped.

yes they will be dumping on an exsisting driveway. due to wash and settling ,it is an ongoing process of adding gravel (actually crushed limestone) then spreading. my drive has several steep, hilly sections, that, no matter how good the crown is, will wash. also have 2 large culverts in the low spots with a raised road above them. this too will wash and spill over the edge requiring periodic addition of material

so back to the original question...tight wheel spread and a 5' ..or wide and a 6' remember the tractor has 27.5 hp(had to get the .5 in there) also i will be leveling different areas of horse pasture to make it easier for clipping..yea..yea.. i know.. i NEED a dozer , but that discussion is for a dif. forum. namely the 'How to get blood out of a Turnip' forum .LOL

 

[jbrumberg]

I left a previous post on what tractors I was considering for 7 acres (TC33DA, Deere 3320, Kubota L3400). Was wondering what size implements should I be looking at for these size tractors. Box blade, landscape rake, and rear finishing mower...

orange1: I have a NH TC29DA (29/23+PTO HP) and maintain 12+A's (7+A's field) with a 60" rotary cutter, 58" gear driven tiller, and 96" landscape rake. I believe I would have no problems operating a 72" rear finishing mower with my tractor. I am planning to purchase a 60" box blade later in the Spring. There is a "Rule of Thumb" that seems to generally apply for tractor attachments: 1 foot/5 HP.

 

[CDsdad]

I left a previous post on what tractors I was considering for 7 acres (TC33DA, Deere 3320, Kubota L3400). Was wondering what size implements should I be looking at for these size tractors. Box blade, landscape rake, and rear finishing mower...

I have roughly the same size tractor as the ones you are looking at, a Massey Ferguson 1533. I use a 5' Bushhog, a 6' Landpride rear finish mower, borrow a 6' rear blade when I need, and will purchase a 6' box blade next week, and want a 6' rake. I also have a 6' 9" tandem disc I use for my garden and deer patches. 6' covers my tire tracks, 5' is just shy of covering. The 5' Bushhog leaves grass laying over but uncut on either side, which isn't a big deal because I use it in tight spots in the woods. I went 6' on everything else I've gotten/will get. I have used a 6' box blade and had no problems with a full box of dirt. I have loaded rears.

As JerryG said, I believe loaded tires work better than wheel weights. A buddy of mine has wheel weights on a Kubota L2900 2wd and it just doesn't seem to put the HP and torque to the ground as well as my father's L2900 with loaded tires.

 

[RollTideRam]

so back to the original question...tight wheel spread and a 5' ..or wide and a 6' remember the tractor has 27.5 hp(had to get the .5 in there) also i will be leveling different areas of horse pasture to make it easier for clipping..yea..yea.. i know.. i NEED a dozer , but that discussion is for a dif. forum. namely the 'How to get blood out of a Turnip' forum .LOL

Your question was answered. You have a 2wd and will have some problem with a small blade and a bigger problem with a bigger blade. So keep it narrow and get the smaller box blade. When the box is full of gravel, you will spin and make a mess out what your trying to fix. My 2520 is pretty light, and with no added ballast I spin frequently even in 4wd if I get too big a load in my box blade. JC

 

[mississippi mud]

Your question was answered. You have a 2wd and will have some problem with a small blade and a bigger problem with a bigger blade. So keep it narrow and get the smaller box blade. When the box is full of gravel, you will spin and make a mess out what your trying to fix. My 2520 is pretty light, and with no added ballast I spin frequently even in 4wd if I get too big a load in my box blade. JC

thanks..so whats the importance of being able to cover the tire tracks with the BB, which seems to be a forum guideline when purchasing one ?

 

[RollTideRam]

If you are doing finishing work on a yard, you don't want your tracks showing. If you need to get close to a building or fence, you don't want to hit with your tire. JC