box blade construction questions

   / box blade construction questions #1  

jimgerken

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2001
Messages
1,632
Location
Minnesota
Tractor
John Deere 3720
I am thinking that a 4 foot box blade might make a good construction project, so I am looking for design input. I have seen a few pictures but never used one. On some, there seems to be a second grader blade mounted on the outside back. I assume these models have two blades, one on the inside, one on the outside. Is the construction basically just a welded three-sided box with blade(s) bolted to the one edge? I also can see the cross-tube frame which holds the scarfiers, seems one per foot of width is popular. On some web page I saw a model which had replaceable "routers" I think they called them, which were cutting or wearing strips on the sides. How much depth do the scarifiers adjust to? Are there any other features which might be good to incorporate? I have a good working metal shop, so let me have your wildest ideas, Thanks!
 
   / box blade construction questions #2  
Probably the best thing to do would be to rent one for a few days and use it as much as possible.

That should help you understand how it is built, what things you want to do with it, and then how you want to incorporate all of that into one that you make yourself.

It kind of sounds like you're unfamiliar with them, so I think, in order to make a good one, you need to become familiar with them.
 
   / box blade construction questions #3  
Unless your time is of little value, I think you would have a hard time building one for less than you can buy a well built unit with a manufacturer to stand behind it.

Kevin
 
   / box blade construction questions #4  
will this box blade be used on your JD4100,and if so you may want to go a tad wider.

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
 
   / box blade construction questions #5  
Jim,
Take a look at Landpride Box Blade. It will give you a pretty good idea how they are built and what options LandPride offers. I agree with Thomas a little wider might be nice.
Al
 
   / box blade construction questions #6  
Jimgerken , I think it’s a neat idea to try and build your own Box Blade. So of coarse I will be the first in line to encourage you to give it a try. Especially if you have a metal shop full of the right tools to do it with.

I refer to myself as a copycat, meaning that I will never try and reinvent the wheel. How ever I get ideas on how to build what I need or want from looking at what others have already done. Yep, I make some mistakes but not as many as I did in my younger days.

Go look at a few box blades at a friendly dealer ship or farm supply store. Then give it a try, yes I thing you will break even on what a box blade will coast you if you build your own. But if you break the one you build you get to take it back to your metal shop and fix it or maybe even improve your design :}

Maybe some day I will see the name jimgerken on my new box blade……….
 
   / box blade construction questions #7  
Sounds like a fun project. You should check the Woods web page too. (www.woodsonline.com) High quality box blades like the Woods Gannon Landscaper (mine) or the Land Pride 35 series run over $1000 for the 48" models, and about $1600 for the 60-66" models, so you should be able to save some bucks doing it yourself. The box blades for normal people are 1/2 to 1/4 that price and probably wouldn't be worth making from scratch. (IMHO) BUT, getting a cheapo and welding on some 1/2 inch plate steel....

Because heavier is better for box blades, the industrial strength ones use 1/2 plate in the construction. The front cross bar holding the scarifiers is 2 pieces of 5"x 1/2 angle. There is a 1/2 inch x 4 1/2 inch bar welded inside of it to take up the stress of the scarifiers (on the back side). You can buy the scarifiers, so the depth is set for you. The blade area is an upside down "V" shape with re-enforcing so it won't flex. Many also add gussets in the corners and have the 3-pt pick up both the front and the back.

As far as things to add, a level for side to side and front to back would be nice. Also rounded inside corners would make cleanup easier and the dirt would spill out better when wet. And some removable weight racks on the front might help in getting it to dig on hard pack soils.

Visit the local farm supply, bring your tape measure and have some fun.
Don't forget to post pictures ...

John Bud


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