Box Blade for my MF1528 What size?

[tgrashopper]

Good Day Evryone,

I have a MF1528.
here are tractor data spec:

Massey Ferguson 1528 Tires
Industrial front: 25x8.50-14
Industrial rear: 12.50/80-18

Dimensions
Wheelbase: 65.6 inches |166 cm
Length: 112.4 inches |285 cm
Width: 53.5 inches |135 cm
Height: 80.7 inches |204 cm
Ground clearance: 10 inches|25 cm
Massey Ferguson 1528 Weight
Shipping: 2423 lbs|1099 kg + loader weight.
Max capacity: 4145 lbs | 1880 kg

My tractor has loaded tire and a Massey Ferguson 1520 Loader. The bucket on my loader is 60"

What size box blade should I get? 60,66,72 are the size I had in mind.

I want a use to for road grading, dirt moving and snow cleaning.

Thanks

 

[oosik]

Most will recommend a box blade wider than your rear wheel width. I run a 72" roll over box blade on my Kubota M6040. Rear wheel width - 80". It has never been a problem getting any job completed with the narrower box blade.

Box blade is not the ideal implement for snow clearing. Rear blade is far better.

 

[Gee Ray]

I had a 1528 for several years. It came with a 5 foot box blade. I would not go any bigger. Depending upon the type of material I sometimes ran out of power or traction. I had loaded R4 tires and 2 sets of rear iron wheel weights on it.

 

[oosik]

Using my ROBB - I can run out of traction if I'm not mindful. Box blade taking too deep a cut - all four wheels digging their own little rut. I have 1550# of RimGard in my rear R-1's.

 

[tgrashopper]

Most will recommend a box blade wider than your rear wheel width. I run a 72" roll over box blade on my Kubota M6040. Rear wheel width - 80". It has never been a problem getting any job completed with the narrower box blade.

Box blade is not the ideal implement for snow clearing. Rear blade is far better.

I would only use it to pull snow away. and I do not have long to do. I agree that a blade would probably work bether for Snow clearing but I can't afford both and I think the Box blade is a better attachment for my need. I have never used a blade... but for Road repair or driveway repair I think the box blade would work better. I'm just not sure if I should go 60",66" or 72".

I think the 72 would probably be to big for my tractor but I wanted people opinion and since my bucket is at 60". I'm wondering if the 66" would be work the harch of running different with implement front and rear. between the 60 and 66 will I save time? will it work better at 66?

I had a 48" on a subcompac before and dependant it had a hard time with the box. but this MF1528 is mutch biger and eavier.

 

[tgrashopper]

I had a 1528 for several years. It came with a 5 foot box blade. I would not go any bigger. Depending upon the type of material I sometimes ran out of power or traction. I had loaded R4 tires and 2 sets of rear iron wheel weights on it.

It's what I had in mind as well. 60" is probably my best bet. the tractor might have issue pulling the 66" and on easier materiel the 6" will not save me that much time.

 

[Gee Ray]

I forgot to mention I have over 100 pounds of steel hanging on the box blade in order to get it to dig. It is a standard duty Kodiak BB. Also add at least a hydraulic top link to make the BB more useful. A tilt cylinder might be nice but it is not "needed"

 

[tgrashopper]

I forgot to mention I have over 100 pounds of steel hanging on the box blade in order to get it to dig. It is a standard duty Kodiak BB. Also add at least a hydraulic top link to make the BB more useful. A tilt cylinder might be nice but it is not "needed"

Ihad in mind on gething a hydrolic top link and i'll see how that perform and might get the tilt Cylinder later.

how many shank you had on your box? I found a 5 foot with 4 shank. The box seam a light. but I had in mind to maybe had some weight. the good box are almost twice the price..... Got a quote for 1800$ for a landpride 5 foot and 850 for a Walco. both have 4 shank. The 5 shank 5 foot box blade are event more expensive.

 

[Rich B1]

You want to be able to cover your tracks with your box blade. So the 60” should be adequate. No doubt you will be able to move more material than you have traction available.

You say you have never used a blade before. Be aware a box blade is a dumb implement that requires you learn to use it correctly to make it work. A box blade requires patience and technique to make it work efficiently.

The big thing is this is not a “fast” implement. It requires slow travel speed to work correctly. You must also learn to use the top link to adjust the blade pitch to make it efficiently rip, move, cut, or smooth material. It can do all 4 functions, but require correct blade pitch to do it well. I have also found you can get some compromise in blade pitch to move/smooth, cut/move at the same time.

Fortunately, I can easily reach the top link on my tractor from the seat. I find adjusting it manually gives me finer control over the blade pitch. Sometimes very subtle changes in link length makes a big difference in the blade performance.

I have a light blade (King Kutter XB 48”) on a 21 HP tractor. Once I learned the importance of blade pitch, I have never seen a need for additional weight. I let the blade do the work.