Box Scraper Box blade instructions

bill177 · Dec 3, 2006

Could someone kindly explain the use of a box blade? I saw one at the TSC Store today at a low price (only 4' wide, but I run a sCut). The mgr said he will take less, as it is a hanger queen taking up space.

It has blades extending down from it.

Is this what I would drag around parts of the lawn that are not even? Work on smoothing woods roads?

Any "how-to" literature or directions for attachments out there? I am not stupid (I don't think). But, a new toy needs some instructions.

When I was on the farm as a kid all we had was plows, discs, clutivator, brush hog, baler, combine, spreader, and the like. Each tractor had a specific impliment and use - except the 8N. That was used for everything that was left and snow plowing. But, we didn't have all these attachments to work with.

mfrost · Dec 3, 2006

Yup, that is what you need to do those jobs. Tilt is forward to cut and back to smooth. Everyone needs one. Add a top and tilt with it and you will be in heaven.

JoeinTX · Dec 4, 2006

There are some differences between the box blade and the regular angling grader blade you see.

The box blade is wonderful for collecting and moving soil over short distances. It is good for digging horizontally.....pits, dirt tanks, landscaping. No real instructions for them. To move a large amount of material and distribute it rather evenly over an area the box blade is the answer.

The grader blade is better for angled digging (ditches) and working dirt/gravel roads. The angle blade can work much like a road grader when trying to crown a road or cut a drainage ditch.......which the box blade is not so good at.

So, if I've got a fresh load of gravel that I want to use for a building pad I'm going to use the box blade for carriage and distribution. If I've got a fresh load of gravel for the dirt road to the highway I use the angle blade for crowning and grading.

kwolfe · Dec 4, 2006

I have a KK XB 48" BB I use with a SCUT. probably the same one you saw at TSC. It is a great implement to have. I am currently using it to regreade about 1/4 acre or more. The rippers are very good for removing grass, weeds, roots, etc. Once that is done, I remove them and use the blade portion to do the finish grade. I also have a 5ft RB, however it has sat idle since I purchased that BB. The only tip I would provide is that the top link retarcted will give you a more aggressive cut on the front blade while a more feathering effect if it is extended. By one, you'll see what I mean.

GreenMtns · Dec 4, 2006

You can do crowning and grading to a degree with a box blade if you have top and tilt. However JoeinTX is right in that it is easier to get the general shape with a back blade. But a box blade will do the best finish work on that road once that shape has been achieved. A box blade has a set of scarifier teeth on the front to rip up an area. I use it to rip up my roadway before grading which I do with the box blade.

I had a hard time learning to use the box blade until I read a thread here that brought it all together.

Most box blades have two blades. One faces forward and the other back. To level an area such as a new lawn, you would set the box blade so the front blade is just slightly higher than the back one. Now go over the area slowly. It will take some time and patience but the area will be very level when you are done.
What is happening here is the front blade is taking a little off the high spots, carrying it in the "box" and dropping it in the low spots. While this is going on the rear blade is smoothing out the area you just dragged. You can't take large bites when smoothing or you will end up making it worse. Also, and here was what was gving me trouble, you must not chase the area by raising and lowering the box blade. Have patience and let it do it's thing and it will come out great.

Al

hz293 · Dec 4, 2006

Are you doing the smoothing with the BB in float or are you setting a height?

Harris

john_bud · Dec 4, 2006

Usually, you drop the box all the way down. If you want to set height, adding a set of gage wheels is the way to do it.

jb

N80 · Dec 4, 2006

The teeth can be adjusted 2 ways. You can angle the front of the BB unit down (with the top link) and you get more engagement with the teeth than the blade. Mine can be angled enough that only the teeth engage, kind of like a plow. Titlt the front of the BB up and you get less, or no tooth engagement. Second, most BBs allow you to adjust the tooth height and/or remove the teeth altogether.

GreenMtns · Dec 4, 2006

hz293 said:
Are you doing the smoothing with the BB in float or are you setting a height?

Harris

I usually start by setting a height when it is still rough. And try not to take off too much at a time. When you have the area fairly smooth you can let the box blade float. But remember you don't want to remove a lot so there would be very little difference in the height of the front and back blades. About 1/2" would be correct.

Al