Grading Box blade pointers, anyone got any?

[StrangeRanger]

Newbie here itching to use my box blade. The ground is still VERY wet round these parts, so my play/learning time so far has not been much.

Just wondering if any of you box blade pros out there got any pointers for me? I'm basically planning on the using the box blade mostly for drive way repairs and reconditioning. It's an 1,800' gravel drive (logging road this time of year ) that is the bane of my existence.

So please, if you have any pointers on how to use this thing post 'em as I'm just trying techniques out and generally having fun making a mess.

Thanks,
j

 

[KeithInSpace]

Practice, practice, and more practice.

Biggest thing I've noticed is that one pass doesn't do it. You need to plan on going over the same spot a few times before it is "flat". Tore out the parent's flowerbeds the other day and really used the BB for intended purpose for the first time. Went over a time or two and was a little disappointed in results. Went over a few more times and it started to look REALLY nice and flat.

One of the next things I hope to accomplish on my machine is a hydraulic top link and possibly side link. I think the BB would be more effective with that change so you could adjust angle of attack on the fly.

And on my ~300 ft gravel driveway, I found the BB to be totally ineffective, but I only had a thin layer of finish purple stone to play with. I didn't want to dig into the base crusher-run for aesthetic reasons. I ended up back-dragging with the FEL. If your driveway is more "utilitarian", you'd probably be OK. I have since paved the driveway.

 

[witel]

I'm basically planning on the using the box blade mostly for drive way repairs and reconditioning. It's an 1,800' gravel drive (logging road this time of year ) that is the bane of my existence.

And on my ~300 ft gravel driveway, I found the BB to be totally ineffective, but I only had a thin layer of finish purple stone to play with. I didn't want to dig into the base crusher-run for aesthetic reasons. I ended up back-dragging with the FEL.

I am not, by any means, an expert on the subject; however, I've been reading that a rear-blade works better on a gravel-drive than a box-blade. Anyone have thoughts on that option?

 

[wushaw]

1800' would be best done by a grademaster type of implement.

 

[8561]

Practice is king. I find two things are important using the box. First, understand and accept it may take multiple passes. Second, the most critical adjustment is top link. Shorter top link sets the front blade and makes it dig. Longer drags the rear and helps it smooth.

Top'n'Tilt and position control on the three point are huge advantages. My drive is pretty short, but before I paved it, I used my box on it all the time. I have a rear blade and I would choose the box (no teeth installed) to do that job.

 

[Jimbrown]

Well I do not have a box blade but I do have a rear blade. I have had it for over two years and I am just now learning how to use it correctly. It just is not easy and I do not think any amount of advice is going to help. You just got to use it to you figure it out. My experience is that you need to keep the top link as short as possible. May not apply to you.

 

[Lockport]

The best advice I think you will find would be to peruse a manuel for a BB on the proper manner in which to use a BB. For example, this is the manual for the Woods line

http://www.woodsequipment.com/Manuals/manuals/turf_land/55123.pdf

 

[Blk88GT]

Wow, someone else from Manitoba is on here! Lockport, I'm just down the road from you in West St Paul

 

[StrangeRanger]

I do have/did read the manual and it is far from helpful.

I do have both a rear blade and the BB and find the BB a little better for "grading" the driveway. I have just a basic rear blade, no hydrolic adjustments or anything like that so it is limited in its abilities. Plus, the ends on the BB make it a lot better for moving material along and filling in low spots etc.

A Grademaster type deal would be awesome, but they are cost prohibitive at this point in time. At least the wife thinks so.

I guess I'll just practice. I knew from the get go it would take multiple passes, but it's the height adjustment that takes getting the knack of.

Oh well, just an excuse for more seat time.
j

 

[Tundra2]

I've got a 600' gravel drive here in Western Mass. that is full of potholes after a winter's worth of plowing. The boxblade is THE tool for my instance. The ground is too hard and packed before the boxblade hits it for a backblade to be of much use.

My only advice would be to adjust the top link so the box can ride parallel to the road surface. The scarifiers can be pointed either forward, backward, raised or lowered, or removed depending upon how aggressive you want to tear up the ground before the blade follows up and smooths things.

My only problem has more to do with the quality of my drive. At certain points along the way my box gets filled with rocks that have been pulled up by the scarifiers but that are too large to pass under the blade. I end up having to empty the box occasionally and am left with a few collections of small cairns to deal with. A new coat of nice crushed 3/4" gravel would be the ticket, but I don't have the $ for that at this point after building a 24'x40' pole barn this past Fall.