Hi, this is my first day on this site, my question is are box blades really that good? I'm thinkig of buying one but want to know how they work and what to look for when buying. I have a scraper blade now and can't seem to make it work that good, also I have a JD 2305, so I was wondering if that is enough tractor for a 60" box blade........thanks
Box Scraper box blade
- Thread starter Ali88
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60" ? No.
Probably the reason you are having issue with the back blade is that it is too light. You want it to be about 70 pounds per linear foot. Light duty ones are in the 40 pound range and they tend to skip.
For box blades you should limit to 48" and target 100 pounds per foot -- minimum. That's if you will be moving earth. If you are just going to have gravel dumped and then drag it around, you can go lighter. But, ground engaging attachments rely on weight to work properly and more is better.
To learn about box blades search for 3RRL's thread on the box blade he upgraded.
jb
Probably the reason you are having issue with the back blade is that it is too light. You want it to be about 70 pounds per linear foot. Light duty ones are in the 40 pound range and they tend to skip.
For box blades you should limit to 48" and target 100 pounds per foot -- minimum. That's if you will be moving earth. If you are just going to have gravel dumped and then drag it around, you can go lighter. But, ground engaging attachments rely on weight to work properly and more is better.
To learn about box blades search for 3RRL's thread on the box blade he upgraded.
jb
Gittyup
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There is also an old thread by Bob Skurka that talks about just about every make of boxblade (at least at that time). Includes photos of most. Is very informative "buyer's guide". Weight is paramount. 60" is too big for your tractor.
RWolf
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As John said you're probably limited to a 4' boxblade. Heavier is better....to a point.... I'm using an Armstrong AG 72" and it weighs in a about 800lbs. When I'm pulling dirt with the scarifiers all the way down I can easily load it up to the point of stopping my tractor. But I bought it knowing that ....someday.... I'll be getting a larger tractor
kthompson
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Before you throw your blade down, what is it you are trying to do and what is happening? If you are trying to cut hard dirt you probably can angle the blade (pivot it so one end is in front of the other) and get better result. If you are trying to cut a grade or ditch effect, pivot the blade and then lower the front edge with adjustment either of lift arms or on the blade if it has this. Also the length of the 3 arm affects it. If not cutting lengthen the arm to change the angle of the cutting edge.
48" is gonna be all your tractor will handle well, I have the kk xb 4ft box blade for my 2305 and it does good with it. takes time to figure out what top link adjustments work but you can work with it. one thing I've done to make it dig better is hang suitcase weights on it. but don't put more than 4 on there or it'll dig so aggressively you won't be able to pull it.
GreenWannabe
Platinum Member
The 2305, being a subcompact, has what is known as a "limited" cat 1 3 point hitch. What the "limited" means is that because of the smaller tires used on subcompacts, the hitch will not lift as high as a hitch on one of its larger brothers. Fortunately, a number of companies make implements designed specifically for subcompacts, both as to size of implement and to meet the limitations of the hitch lift. Before buying an implement for your 2305, you need to be sure it is designed for a subcompact rather than a regular 3ph.
MJPetersen
Veteran Member
Welcome to TBN. If you search the attachment forum you will find lots of people who have asked questions about BB's (box blades) and their use. The first to consider when buying a BB is the thread mentioned above by Bob, which is a photo comparison and evaluation of different aspects of BB's. Here is the link.
The second thing to look at when considering BB's is how you are going to use them. That is the main purpose of this thread which talks about some "how-to's" in relation to BB's, especially for the beginner.
However, just getting a BB is not going to make an instant success of your project. If your problem is that your RB (rear blade) will not dig into hard ground then a BB may help as it has scarifiers to help in that. But if the problem is that you cannot get the ground smooth and you already have loose dirt, then may I suggest a set of gauge wheels will aid you more than anything. Some might call them "training wheels", but even those who do admit (John Bud) that they make a pro out of you in one afternoon.
So if you could clarify what your problem is then we can best advise you of the possible courses of action.
Mike
The second thing to look at when considering BB's is how you are going to use them. That is the main purpose of this thread which talks about some "how-to's" in relation to BB's, especially for the beginner.
However, just getting a BB is not going to make an instant success of your project. If your problem is that your RB (rear blade) will not dig into hard ground then a BB may help as it has scarifiers to help in that. But if the problem is that you cannot get the ground smooth and you already have loose dirt, then may I suggest a set of gauge wheels will aid you more than anything. Some might call them "training wheels", but even those who do admit (John Bud
) that they make a pro out of you in one afternoon.So if you could clarify what your problem is then we can best advise you of the possible courses of action.
Mike
jimmyj
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Great info everyone. I am just learning to use a box blade and it's been a great tool. I lucked into a really heavy one (used) and it might seem funny but the best practice I have had so far is grooming snowmobile trails. The hard packed vs soft vs level vs bumpy areas have taught a lot about angle, 3ph float etc.
Plus, I have AWESOME winter trails for walking, skiing or whatever.
Plus, I have AWESOME winter trails for walking, skiing or whatever.
