Box Scraper v Drag Scraper v Grading Scraper v Rear Blade??

[roadracer]

Hi folks, I'm a newbie tractor owner and appreciate the patience from everyone. I just acquired a beautiful M4 from Kubota and now I need a (some?) dirt working implement(s?).

For context, I also have a 3.5 ton mini ex with a 4 way blade on it.

I'm currently focused on developing the property, which involves rough and finish grading both building pads and ranch roads cut into the contours of the hills. For scale, the building site I'm working on now has about 1' of elevation difference that I am addressing with a mini. The big barn will have more like 4-5' to deal with (and perhaps require a professional). The driveway is a little over a mile long and 1/4 of it is raw hill that needs to be converted into something passable. The rest are rough roads to be fixed. Based on my research, the Drag Scraper with trailing wheels is generally used for moving large amounts of dirt and would be a crude tool for most of what I need to do. The Grading Scraper / Land Plane is at the other end of the spectrum and generally more applicable for finish only grading.

How about the Box Scraper and the Rear Blade? I was planning on getting a heavy duty 84" Box Scraper and seeing how that goes, but frankly they're extremely difficult to find right now and I have dirt that needs to be moved. Would a Rear Blade offer any advantages over a Box Scraper or the blade on my mini?

Thanks!

 

[bcp]

If you can get a rear blade, add ends on it to move dirt like a box blade. Maybe add a rear gauge wheel, too.

Bruce

 

[MtnViewRanch]

If you can afford them, get them all. Each and everyone of them has their place. You need to know where and when each implement should be used to get the best and fastest results. For your tractor, I would not even consider anything under 800-1000lbs. All of these will set you back 12-15K if purchased new.

To help keep those implements adjusted as needed, a top & tilt set for the 3pt hitch is pretty much a requirement. Hopefully you got 2-3 rear remotes when you purchased the tractor.

While both a box blade and rear blade can achieve the same results, they will not do it in the same amount of time, not even close.
I personally have a 7' 1000lb roll over box blade, a 9' 1200lb hydraulic actuated rear blade, a 1400lb LPGS. (land plane grading scraper)

You mentioned the land plane grading scraper as a finish type implement. Not at all. Yes that is how it is typically used, but I have found that by using the LPGS to start a path, by getting the path smooth and a little more evened out it is by far easier and faster to then contour the path as you want-need it to be. I have done the exact same thing for grading out larger areas (acres). It just makes life better overall.

Good luck finding any of the implements that you need in stock. These days pretty much everything has to be ordered and has long lead times. Just how it is.

 

[Piston]

First of all, congratulations!

Seeing that you are in the beginning stages of a very large project, and will have a lot of use for rough grading and spreading material, my suggestion would be the heavy duty box blade as first priority.

I think you’ll find this will do a lot more work than you would expect. The trick is getting a truly heavy duty one, not a 600 pound 7’ box blade. Something in the 1,000 pound plus range.

I would hold off on the rear blade. I don’t feel you will need it. You will do all of your ditching with your mini X, and can move loose material with its blade.

I may be a bit biased, but I think that for your size tractor, the holy grail of box blades is the 1,600 pound FFC box blade.

I’ve cleared land from forest to lawn various times, and by far the go to implements for me have been a heavy box blade and a FEL grapple.

For finish work, You won’t beat a power rake.

 

[Piston]

In addition, I suggest you get your rear tires loaded with Rimgard before it leaves the dealer. You will want the extra traction when pulling a full box.

 

[nyone]

You have a mini ex with a front blade and it does angle so really your tractor will be for smoothing roughed in areas that your mini has prepped. Get a box blade...or even just a landscape rake.

 

[roadracer]

While both a box blade and rear blade can achieve the same results, they will not do it in the same amount of time, not even close.
I personally have a 7' 1000lb roll over box blade, a 9' 1200lb hydraulic actuated rear blade, a 1400lb LPGS. (land plane grading scraper)

When you say they can do the same work but in different time, which is faster?

top/tilt is a good idea. I have three remotes, so that should be no problem

As for weight, I got the cast wheels to beef it up a little bit, but maybe I need to beet it up a little bit too!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

When you say they can do the same work but in different time, which is faster?

top/tilt is a good idea. I have three remotes, so that should be no problem

As for weight, I got the cast wheels to beef it up a little bit, but maybe I need to beet it up a little bit too!

Again, it depends on what you are working on. If I could only have one, I would get a box blade like-similar to what Piston recommended. A box blade will do it all, just certain processes will take longer. An example is it takes forever to move dirt sideways, but it will do it. A rear blade will shape and contour a road in less than half the time a box blade will do it in.

I started out with a med duty rear blade and my roll over box blade. I have over a mile of road to maintain as well as miles of fence line. For 2 years I made due with those. Then I got my LPGS, cut my general road maintenance by half the time, easily.

Then I cut in a couple of new roads, started with my new 9' rear blade, but the ground was so rough that it seemed like I was getting no ware very slow. Decided to try the LPGS to even things out some. Worked great. Then I went back to my 9' rear blade and did the shaping and contouring. I have several gradual turns as well as an S curve.

Weight is your friend when it comes to dirt work, fill the tires. I have all 4 tires filled and 6 sets of wheel weights on my 75hp tractor. It has a base weight of 7300lbs, add in the 2200lb loader and all the ballast, it now weighs in at 13,000lbs. I added the weight portions at a time, 1st 4 sets of wheel weighs, might as well have done nothing, add fluid to all the tires, NOW THAT MADE A HUGE DIFFERENCE as far as stability, pulling power and made the ride by far smoother. Seemed like I could use a bit more, added 2 more sets of wheel weights, that seemed to do it.

Adding the weight is what I had to do to get the highest working capability out of the machine.
In reality I should have gotten a larger machine, but that simply was not in the cards and still get a new machine.

Another bit of advise, learn how to use your draft control, it makes grading so so much easier.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I don't get impressed much these days. My brother and I made a box grader. Adjustable and all just like the best you can buy. That implement impressed me. Plus it will carry 2.5 yds dirt. Hydraulic top link.