boxblade

[graggy]

Hi, I'm new to this and just bought my first tractor. actually a used tractor 2003 L35. I've been looking at some threads on here about a boxblade can anybody tell me what a good one would be for this tractor? I found one for sale on the internet for 150.00. I'm just not sure if it would be any good for that kind of price. Should the blade be wider than the rear tires? Thanks for your help

 

[Thomas]

Welcome to TBN.
Most owners will tell you have box blade 6" or be on the rear tire..some owner my go futher depending on horse power.

 

[Red Beast]

generally one that covers the rear tyres. Look at the build quality, thickness of steel, the weight of the blade, all important factors.
RB

 

[Bird]

Assuming the box blade has scarifiers or ripper teeth, how are they held in place? Some are much easier and quicker to raise and lower than others.

 

[TripleR]

A lot is going to depend on how and what your intended uses will be. For some, a lightly built, economical unit will work well while others are going to need a really heavily built unit. Think about your intended uses and shop accordingly; better to over buy than under buy, but no use in getting more than you need.

I agree, if your tractor will pull it, go for something that covers your tracks, but realize that to be used effectively, a box blade takes a lot of power and traction and bigger is not always better.

As to brand, my preference is for Land Pride, but there are lots of others that are very good and not all are badged with familiar names, just look at weight and build quality. My Kubota dealer had some "off brands" out back and if he would have had a 7 foot model I would have bought it, very well built.

 

[Ken45101]

If that was a new one on the internet for $150, I wouldn't waste my time looking at it. It's probably designed for use with a 4 wheeler.

OTOH, if it's a used one that's built decent, it could be a very good buy. I bought one like that a dozen years ago for my 45 hp M4700 and it held up just fine. Just last year I bought a bigger one, but the old one still in perfect shape.

As others have said, it depends on your use, but you really can't go wrong buying heavy with a box blade as long as your tractor can handle it. Your tractor manual will give you max size and weight for 3 pt attachments.

If you don't already have it, you will probably need front weights on your tractor.

Ken

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I sold this one yesterday for $150 or rather traded it for a single bottom plow. I paid $150 for it. There are bargains, scams and trash for sale on the internet. Check em out after learning what you need and what makes one better or as good as another one. A new boxblade at a store that's $150 would be a toy.

 

[milkman]

I got this boxblade, traded a plow that I didn't need, about a 3hr ride each way and a couple of hours of interesting conversation talking about tractors. I was afraid that JT's kubotaitis was contagous, and he tried to infect me with a little playing with his 2660. I'm ok so far, and I got a really nice attachment, looks like it's never seen dirt, I'll get to fix that in a couple of days.

 

[am122]

I have the same box blade as MILKMAN. The first one I looked at was bent in at the lower
pins like it was put on a tractor that was to big for the bb. I went to another store and picked
up the same bb unbent and welded angle iron between the pins and all is fine.

 

[Samandothers]

I have seen some rated by the power of the tractor they will be used on. I used a light one on my 42 hp tractor. When backing I could tell the supports were flexing. When I get one I will look for a heavy one or reinforce.

 

[Johndeere3720]

I also have the same boxblade. I had it so it would fit on my imatch and added some reflectors for safety. It has definatly been used.