Brake problem

[jaotguy]

Maybe some one knows the answer or can post a picture.


Wife's 1999 malibu... she pulls into the yard and says "the brakes are acting funny today".
I go out and the pedal goes to the floor... look under and see the drip drip drip ... rear brake line .... OK, I'll just replace the line .... slide underneath and trace the line from the back to the front and it goes up into the engine compartment... open the hood and see 2 lines from the master cylinder go under the fuse box somewhere to the ABS ... problem is I can't see the ABS unit from below or from the top ... anyone know exactly where it is located and how to get to it?

 

[roygage]

Maybe some one knows the answer or can post a picture.


Wife's 1999 malibu... she pulls into the yard and says "the brakes are acting funny today".
I go out and the pedal goes to the floor... look under and see the drip drip drip ... rear brake line .... OK, I'll just replace the line .... slide underneath and trace the line from the back to the front and it goes up into the engine compartment... open the hood and see 2 lines from the master cylinder go under the fuse box somewhere to the ABS ... problem is I can't see the ABS unit from below or from the top ... anyone know exactly where it is located and how to get to it?

Can't recall on the Malibu for sure but on most GMs it is located up frt. down low. Behind the rad. in frt. of transaxle on the left side.

I run a repair shop in northern Iowa and we do a lot of brake line replacement. Very tedious but necessary job. Recommendations, a hoist or get it up in the air on stands, do yourself a favor and pull the wheels off and get them out of the way. They make a brake-line that is copper in color that is much easier to form and will not rust. Carquest or Napa should have available. Comes in 25 foot rolls. Take care on your routing. Don't run it will nilly.

Take the affected line off and get it on a bench then make a new one using the old as a pattern. Be sure you get the length right. Lay the new line right up against the old, start on one end making your bends. A big help, as you go take zip ties and snug the new formed line to the old as you go. This makes it much easier to get a good copy.

Use line wrench's. Use a 6 point socket on your bleeders. Sometimes on the fittings that hook to the wheel cylinders you can slice the line off flush with the fitting using a sharp chisel and use a six point socket to good effect.

I like to flare the ends before I put the line back onto the car. With the line pre-bent even if you have to bend it around some to get it back on the car it will be easier to get it to follow the original routing and fit properly.

You will likely have both bubble flare and double flare fittings. Be sure you watch as you take them apart and don't switch the fittings around. Do one line at a time. If you are unsure of how to do the different flares You Tube has videos.

Take your time, Rome was not built in a day. One last tip, once you are ready to make your flare count to ten and check to be sure your fitting is slipped onto the line.(-:

 

[jaotguy]

Thx for the info. car is up on solid ramps ( jacked car up and put them under the tires )
already have the tubing , bubble flaring tools, METRIC fittings, etc ...
just needed the location of the unit ... I'll check tomorrow after it gets light.

 

[jaotguy]

thank you sir ... found it under the battery tray ... also pulled the air box for more access to the lines ... now just the upper rad hose to remove and I'll have at it. :thumbsup: