break away system on trailer

[BlackRaptor]

My trailer came with the break away system but what they didn't incude was the cord that goes into that box to the bumper of the pickup. Need to call them.
I haven't really used the trailer yet but a friend saw it and said the trailer could be getting power from the truck for that and lighterly applying the brakes all the time because the break away cable is not in there. is this true?

 

[Diamondpilot]

When you say cord I am assuming you are talking about the steel cable with a clip on the end that pulls the plunger out of the actual brake away actuator. He is right, if the battery has any charge what so ever or your truck is wired properly it could be applying power but I don't think that is the case or you would have smoking brakes in a few miles or even dragging locked up tires.

My guess is the battery on the trailer is dead and will need charged or replaced. I am also quite confident your truck is not wired properly or you would have brakes on like he said. If its a late model Ford you need a relay to make the charge circuit work. It allows power to come from the truck when the key is on or the engine is running via the #1 and #4 pin of the trailer light plug for positive and negative power to charge the battery. In this case with the trailer hooked up it would send power to the brakes since the brake away is pulled assuming its functioning properly. If its a GM they work the same but will need a Large Maxi-Fuse in either 30 or 40 amp. Not sure about Dodge or the Toyota. I do know for a Nissan there is nothing to do the truck, its set up at the factory.

Chris

 

[laen64]

Wow nissan is ahead of the Game. Please do post the info for Dodge. All Good info!

 

[Diamondpilot]

I really can not comment on Dodge. I have sold tons of trailers but Dodge is just not that popular around here and have never done one. I did own a 2500 Hemi Dodge myself but never installed a trailer brake controller in it because the only trailer I had at the time had surge brakes that were hydraulic. Did wire up a few Jeep products which would be about the same but no Dodges so I will not claim I know about them. This is the site and guy I but parts from all the time. Check out his HELP section for info, that's what I would do.

Sorry I can not be more help but maybe someone else will chime in.

R and P Carriages, Towing and trailer help questions

Chris

 

[denmansoft]

I got a trailer last year with electric brakes and the breakaway system with its own battery. All was good except there was no connection to keep the battery charged while driving. The standard 7 pin trailer connector cable has a 12V line for charging the RV battery but the wire was cut off and not connected!
This was one of 3 shoddy workmanship items on this trailer! I will not recommend Cascade trailers to anyone.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I got a trailer last year with electric brakes and the breakaway system with its own battery. All was good except there was no connection to keep the battery charged while driving. The standard 7 pin trailer connector cable has a 12V line for charging the RV battery but the wire was cut off and not connected!
This was one of 3 shoddy workmanship items on this trailer! I will not recommend Cascade trailers to anyone.

So did you splice in a wire and hook it up properly?

Chris

 

[Scrounger]

When you say cord I am assuming you are talking about the steel cable with a clip on the end that pulls the plunger out of the actual brake away actuator. He is right, if the battery has any charge what so ever or your truck is wired properly it could be applying power but I don't think that is the case or you would have smoking brakes in a few miles or even dragging locked up tires.

My guess is the battery on the trailer is dead and will need charged or replaced. I am also quite confident your truck is not wired properly or you would have brakes on like he said. If its a late model Ford you need a relay to make the charge circuit work. It allows power to come from the truck when the key is on or the engine is running via the #1 and #4 pin of the trailer light plug for positive and negative power to charge the battery. In this case with the trailer hooked up it would send power to the brakes since the brake away is pulled assuming its functioning properly. If its a GM they work the same but will need a Large Maxi-Fuse in either 30 or 40 amp. Not sure about Dodge or the Toyota. I do know for a Nissan there is nothing to do the truck, its set up at the factory.

Chris

I have a 2000 Yukon XL and the charge will continue as long as the trailer is plugged in. Its killed my truck battery more than once so I just unplugged the trailer if it will be parked hitched up for more than a day.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have a 2000 Yukon XL and the charge will continue as long as the trailer is plugged in. Its killed my truck battery more than once so I just unplugged the trailer if it will be parked hitched up for more than a day.

If it is doing that you have a problem. It was not wired properly. Is this the factory wiring or is it something someone else has done? Either way, as long as you know its ok, just unplug it as you have been doing. The industry standard is the charge circuit is key controlled just for that reason.

Chris

 

[GreenWannabe]

Back in the '60s, I had a camper on board two different trucks - a '63 Chev and a '67 International. Both trucks had a 7-pin connector, and I had a mating connector on the camper. I had 12V hot with the key off, which operated a light in the camper. It is possible his plug is wired always hot like mine was, but it should be simple enough to rewire it to a switched circuit.

 

[Scrounger]

If it is doing that you have a problem. It was not wired properly. Is this the factory wiring or is it something someone else has done? Either way, as long as you know its ok, just unplug it as you have been doing. The industry standard is the charge circuit is key controlled just for that reason.

Chris

Chris

Its the factory wiring with a wire harness to a prodigy controller.