Break Job YM2210

Todd8665 · Sep 4, 2015

With new turf tires coming I thought it would be a good time to replace the right hand side brake shoes, which don't grab as well as the left even though they are just about maxed out.

Steps:
1. Review Hoye's instructions on how to change brake pads.
2. Search this forum and review all the horror stories and work arounds.
3. Consume adult beverage and consider steps one and two.
4. Remove fender(opted not to take tire off)
5. Remove bolts from brake cover (preparing myself for the feared stuck on brake cover described in Hoyes instructions)
6. Quickly grab brake cover because it isn't even a smidgen stuck.
7. Remove springs from brake pads and prepare myself of the stuck brake cam ( described in Hoye directions and in multiple posts here)
8. Easily pull brake cam out with fingers.

:cool2::cool2::cool2::cool2::cool2::cool2::cool2:

Now the confession. There is still quite a bit of meat on the old brake shoes, but the turn buckle/adjuster is just about maxed out. After seeing how these brakes work I think I could put the old shoes back in a still get some use out of them - an 1/8-1/4" adjustment would give you quite a bit of grab. New brake pads are about an 1/8" taller than the old ones, when laid on a table, and since I have it torn down no sense in putting them back in. I think I'll hold onto them for now though.

The new pads also have much less brake material..like twice as much. When the new pads get worn down to metal the old ones would still have about 1/8" of material before you get to metal.

Question. What is a good grease to use on that cam? I wish I knew what the last guy used...it was pasty and a but tacky but the thing came out so easily.

kenmac · Sep 4, 2015

I used an anti seize on mine.. You know, when I had my brake shoes lined.. the guy that lined them said he only puts about 1/16'' to 1/8 '' material on these shoes..Mine had about that much to begin with.. I won't have them re lined again for a loooooong time

California · Sep 5, 2015

One tip - the anchor stud that the dumb end of the shoes rest on, can be rotated a quarter turn to move the shoes outward.

Also you can swap leading/trailing shoes if there is a difference in wear. For myself, I would just adjust and re-use if it looks like the repair would serve another several years.

Todd8665 · Sep 5, 2015

California said:
One tip - the anchor stud that the dumb end of the shoes rest on, can be rotated a quarter turn to move the shoes outward.

Also you can swap leading/trailing shoes if there is a difference in wear. For myself, I would just adjust and re-use if it looks like the repair would serve another several years.

Hmm. I'll have to consider and check this out. One issue with swapping the shoes is that there is a ridge on the outside edge of the shoe. It was caused by a groove in the outside edge of the brake drum. Suppose I could sand/grind it off. I don't think it would be a big issue, but it could cause the show to canter when pressed, causing more uneven wear.

California · Sep 5, 2015

Yes, I would grind off a high ridge from the shoes.

Are the shoes symmetrical - both ends of the shoe identical? I don't remember for my YM240. I opened up its brakes when I bought it in 2003 because the left pedal wouldn't return, couldn't be pulled up by hand. (It must have been that way for a long time. 'The tractor hasn't been used much for several years and could use a little TLC' said the seller.

Yep, it needed a month of minor reconditioning of 'deferred maintenance' items like this. Neglect, not wear). I found lots of lining remaining. Brakes and everything work fine 12 years later.

I used a very light wipe of wheel bearing grease on the brake cam shaft, assuming this was the kind least likely to migrate over to the brake shoes.

If the shoes are symmetrical, then if the shoes are swapped but are reinstalled with the same side outward, the ground-down portion would still align with the groove. Harmless, I think.

Todd8665 · Sep 5, 2015

California said:
Yes, I would grind off a high ridge from the shoes.

Are the shoes symmetrical - both ends of the shoe identical? I don't remember for my YM240. I opened up its brakes when I bought it in 2003 because the left pedal wouldn't return, couldn't be pulled up by hand. (It must have been that way for a long time. 'The tractor hasn't been used much for several years and could use a little TLC' said the seller. Yep, it needed a month of minor reconditioning of 'deferred maintenance' items like this. Neglect, not wear). I found lots of lining remaining. Brakes and everything work fine 12 years later.

I used a very light wipe of wheel bearing grease on the brake cam shaft, assuming this was the kind least likely to migrate over to the brake shoes.

If the shoes are symmetrical, then if the shoes are swapped but are reinstalled with the same side outward, the ground-down portion would still align with the groove. Harmless, I think.

Sigh.... My luck just ran out. I was examining the cover assembly to see if I could rotate the anchor stub 1/4 turn like you mentioned. Lots of corrosion around it so I did the age old time or money calculation. I chose to clean the stub up and simply put the new pads on - money wins the day.

Put it all together and...it wont fit in the drum! :thumbdown:

I take the drum off the tractor and take the whole thing to the bench. I notice that the old shoes fit into the groves of the cam & stub "smoother" than the new shoes. So i get a file out and put a bevel on the part of the shoe that rides in the cam and stub - matching the original shoes. Better, but still a no go. Even if it fit it would be so tight that it would have to wear in, and there would be ZERO play in the right brake peddle. Needless to say the replacement brake pads are made in china... No knock to my supplier, but my hour project, like all my projects, just ballooned!

So i sit here contemplating...do I grind some of the metal off the new shoes(the dovetails), or do I try and free up the dead cam and use the old shoes... Where's my beer...

normde2001 · Sep 5, 2015

Normally on afirst brake job guys just reverse shoes and anchor stud , switch cam from side to side, replace any bad springs and are good to go for another 30 years.

Todd8665 · Sep 5, 2015

Well...breaking the dead stud loose was easier than I though. Had to lag the cover to my bench to turn the bolt and use a two foot breaker bar, but it popped out and with some PB blaster came loose. Put the old pads back on and I'm back in business-and stopping on a dime!

Anyone want to buy some brand new break pads?? Not sure what they would fit... I'll contact Hoye about the poor fit, but at this point I could care less... If one was to grind the dovetails on the new pads they would work. Not a good feature in new parts...

I didn't notice when I took it off, but I think the previous owner had the cam arm in the wrong position as I have plenty of adjustment on the linkage now.