Breaking in new B2650HST

BCWoodtick · Mar 6, 2015

Hey there, finally had the new B2650 delivered on Wed. and the manual says to break in slowly but doesn't give an rpm to keep the engine at.

Any suggestions on running for the break in time would be appreciated.

AStanton · Mar 6, 2015

Speaking from having a B3030, I would try and run at 2,000 for the first 50 hours. If you are using the PTO, then you will have to rev it up for that. I think a new engine is hurt more by lugging it in a lower rpm than running at a higher one. Just my opinion.

BCWoodtick · Mar 6, 2015

That makes sense. I won't be running the PTO but do have the BH77 so would think that would be the same. The book for the BH77 says 75% of max engine speed so thinking about 1900rpms.

Any other hints for breaking in the tractor?

trollingfever · Mar 6, 2015

i wondered if i missed the photos on the new tractor? i didn't see them, but I'm also waiting for a new B2650HST.

oldballs · Mar 7, 2015

If I remember correctly, the manual said something like "just don't run it wide open" for the first 50 hours.. That's how I interpreted it anyway. Having bought mine in the summer, I ran it mowing while varying the rpm's up and down the scale....up to but ...less than 2500 rpm.
Cheers,
Mike

tk tom · Mar 7, 2015

I didn't have any implements to run, just a loader with bucket and forks when I got mine. I guess I wasn't aware of any particular break-in schedule but I did find I didn't need many rpm to get the jobs done. Actually at first I preferred the lower rpm for fine movements of the pallet forks. The loader valve does loosen up a bit to allow smoother movements, but it seemed like it took quite a few hours to get there. I changed the oil and filter after 10-15 hours, don't remember which. Tractor runs like a champ with 170+ on it now so I guess I didn't do anything wrong!

Looking4new · Mar 7, 2015

Mine was delivered with two hours on the meter. I fired it up after the delivery guy/salesman left and promptly moved and placed 105 tons of pitrun gravel. I kept the revs just under 2000 rpm for that chore. I changed the oil at 50 hours like the book said and it still runs like a champ at 178 hours.

HEC · Mar 7, 2015

I tried to vary the rpms without lugging the eng.. One thing I would highly recommend is to change the hyd. hst filter like the manual states at the 50 hrs. as mine was really dirty . I am going to do mine again at 100 hrs. along with all new filters , new hyd. fluid , and of course the eng. oil and filter as recommended . When I changed the hst filter at 50 hrs. I just plugged the rubber vent with a 16 penny spike and I only lost a very little fluid when removing filter , mostly just what was in the filter . The vent is at the rear of the tractor at the fill point . Good luck, and enjoy your tractor as I really like mine .

Kanook · Mar 7, 2015

I agree with HEC....Vary the rpms as much as practical. ....... and avoid lugging the engine down. I fail to see why a diesel would be much different than a gasser in that varying the rpms recommended to ensure good component break-in.....Having said that, I immediately went full bore into snow blowing which requires 2500 rpm to operate the blower efficiently..125 hours of mostly snowblowing later and all is fine (and running a woodchipper about 10 or 12 hours).

BCWoodtick · Mar 7, 2015

Thanks guys,
I am going to get a few hours on it this weekend. Looks like I might have a small leak on the BH77 hydraulic control valve under the controls? Tried tightening and seems tight? It stopped the drip but when I tried the hoe looked like it started to leak again? Will have a good look today now that I have some day light. Anyone have any similar experience? Dealer said sometimes things loosen during transport but am thinking is more than that?