Tiller "Broke" my Tiller Moving

   / "Broke" my Tiller Moving #1  
Joined
Dec 3, 2010
Messages
32
Tractor
Mitsubishi MT2001D
This forum was so helpful last time, I am hoping to tab the brain trust again :)
We've (the horses, dogs, and I) moved to ten acres, so I am tending my own pastures and loving it. My late husband would be so proud ... I think LOL
When I moved the attachments for his ... my ... The Tractor (A Mitsubishi 4wd w/fe loader) I bent the fork where the lift attaches. Folded them over with the loader putting it on the tractor. I am not the most skilled in the world with a tractor, still learning!!
So ... how do I fix this?? It is spring and I want tomatoes and other yummy veggies.

Any tips on the box blade and grading the driveway would be welcome as well.

Thank you so very much!!

~Anne
 
   / "Broke" my Tiller Moving #2  
A picture of the bent or broken parts would be very helpful in making suggestions.
 
   / "Broke" my Tiller Moving
  • Thread Starter
#3  
A picture of the bent or broken parts would be very helpful in making suggestions.

Oh ... of course!! There is a "well, Duh!" moment! :laughing:
 
   / "Broke" my Tiller Moving
  • Thread Starter
#4  
This is the top of my tiller, where the lift attaches.
Thank you!

IMG_1642[1].jpg
IMG_1640[1].jpg
 
   / "Broke" my Tiller Moving #5  
Any welding shop will be able to straighten it. A little heat, leverage and maybe a hammer and you"ll be good as new!
 
   / "Broke" my Tiller Moving #6  
put crestent wrench on it with cheater pipe on it and bend it back or use big hammer and beat it back
 
   / "Broke" my Tiller Moving #7  
put crestent wrench on it with cheater pipe on it and bend it back or use big hammer and beat it back

^Yep. A BIG crescent wrench, and BIG cheater pipe to go along with that BIG hammer (5 lb min and/or 10lb sledge). As said above, heat would help out too. Also, you can substituting a pry bar ("alignment bar", the kind with 1 pointed end) and put one end through the pin hole(s) on the tiller, then slide your cheater bar of the other end of the pry bar to extend its length for more leverage.
image_13643.jpg
 
   / "Broke" my Tiller Moving
  • Thread Starter
#8  
^Yep. A BIG crescent wrench, and BIG cheater pipe to go along with that BIG hammer (5 lb min and/or 10lb sledge). As said above, heat would help out too. Also, you can substituting a pry bar ("alignment bar", the kind with 1 pointed end) and put one end through the pin hole(s) on the tiller, then slide your cheater bar of the other end of the pry bar to extend its length for more leverage.
View attachment 366888

I actually have all of that ... my hubby adored tools, and when my FIL passed, I got a few more tractor sized things :)
I have a propane torch ... enough heat? or let the welder take a stab? My main worry, I suppose is weakening the metal.
 
   / "Broke" my Tiller Moving #9  
That is not a terribly high-stress part, and the way it's bent is more or less exactly perpendicular to the way the stress is usually going to be applied. I second what others have said. Get somebody with a torch to heat it up and bend it straight again. You can do it cold, but it's going to require a lot of muscle. Down-side of the heat method is, you'll probably need to take out that bolt and bushing to get at just the bent pieces.

If you put an ad on your local Craigslist, including some pictures, you can probably find some good ol' boy with an O/A torch and a strong arm to come out and do it for you, vs. you having to take it in to a welding shop. It aint rocket science...
 
   / "Broke" my Tiller Moving #10  
I actually have all of that ... my hubby adored tools, and when my FIL passed, I got a few more tractor sized things :)
I have a propane torch ... enough heat? or let the welder take a stab? My main worry, I suppose is weakening the metal.

Dang, our messages crossed in the Internet.

If you have a propane torch, whether or not you can heat it up enough depends on the tips you've got, but yeah, propane is plenty hot for heating and cutting if you have the right equipment. Heating before bending will do a better job of not weakening the metal, but I don't think you need to worry too much. This isn't high-carbon steel, so it's not like you're going to make it brittle. The key will be to use a tip on the torch that concentrates the heat where you want it. Get the bent section nice and red, and it'll bend back without too much trouble. Then just let it cool on its own--don't throw water on it or anything to hurry it up.
 
 

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