broken chain JD 219

[HumphreyUK]

I broke the chain that drives the knotter and feeder with the needles mid position.
I have ordered a new repair link, but would like your comments regarding timing. I think the breakage was due to a chain that was very rusted and the crack on the link was half fresh and half old.
I am hoping that re timing might resolve the bad knotting as I have run out of ideas.
Humphrey

 

[Tx Jim]

It appears that one can remove the 3 cap screws to achieve correct needle to plunger head timing. I see your baler has a chain idler that it's USA counterpart (model 214) didn't have. Did you locate an operators manual in a language to your liking?

 

[HumphreyUK]

I repaired the chain and used my French instruction manual to retime it. As I see it, the needles should be 1-4mm under the bale chamber in repose and when they are level with the base of the bale chamber, the pointed tips of the ram should be 30mm (+- 10mm) from the needle tips going away to the front.
I released the three bolts and repositioned them one hole away from where they were before. Tomorrow I will test it, but I think that the twine is the wrong grade for square balers and is actually for round balers.

 

[Tx Jim]

When timing balers built for sales in USA one must have plunger head traveling to the rear of baler on a compression stroke then when tips of needles are even with upward turned channels in bottom of bale case AND even with points on plunger head it's "in time"

 

[HumphreyUK]

that sounds different to what I did. I will get someone to translate the instructions. I thought it was in the decompression stroke.

I just found that the needle tips were too low by about 10mm so I adjusted the side lever to correct it. I then retimed it according to instructions with the jam on the compression stroke.

I will test it later.

 

[Tx Jim]

that sounds different to what I did. I will get someone to translate the instructions. I thought it was in the decompression stroke.

I just found that the needle tips were too low by about 10mm so I adjusted the side lever to correct it. I then retimed it according to instructions with the jam on the compression stroke.

I will test it later.

Where were the needles located when you determined they were adjusted too low(home position or fully up in knotter )????????????? I still think needle to PH timing should be set with PH on compression stroke. That's the way I've been timing JD sq balers since 1970.

 

[HumphreyUK]

Edit; for jam read ram. The needles were too low in the home position. Anyway, I still can't get it knotting right. I took the lever off that presses on the billhook roller and see that it is heavily scored where the roller ran. I can try to polish it out, but the real reason might be that I am using the wrong twine ie round baler twine.

 

[Tx Jim]

Edit; for jam read ram. The needles were too low in the home position. Anyway, I still can't get it knotting right. I took the lever off that presses on the billhook roller and see that it is heavily scored where the roller ran. I can try to polish it out, but the real reason might be that I am using the wrong twine ie round baler twine.

IIRC rd baler twine is too small diameter. I've never adjusted needles under bale case for being too low but I've adjusted them for being too high. Most adjusting of needles is performed when needles are up in knotter.

 

[HumphreyUK]

I put in the proper twine and it works great. Some rusted out areas in the bale chamber need welding in which is causing banana shaped bales, but that should fix it now. Thanks for your comments.
Humphrey

 

[Tx Jim]

You're welcome. I'm glad you got it going,Jim