Broken

[6sunset6]

This is definatly ME Not a warranty issue. Put a toothbar on my bucket and a Thumb Grapple. I had just finished a brush pile move and was poking at a pile of dirt that had been under the brush pile for about 10 years. Backing out with I noticed the QA on one side had popped out. Although I had never had that happen in 11 years with my 1320 I though oh well I did not latch it. Wrong. Little more than hop off and relatch. BENT.
The torque tube that connects one side of the QA mechanism to the same mechanism on the other side does not quite make it. It took a while to figuire out which side twisted. From the tractor seat the left side was twisted back about 1/2 inch. You can see it in one picture and in the other you can see where the paint popped off the tube. I blocked the good side and used the curl hydraulics to pull the other side back. Forgot to save the picture in my cell. After a couple of back and forths and running the revs up I got it all straight bit of course it won't stay there. I put a 3' pipe wrench on the tube to try and kick it a little . Forget it. So now I am typing while I think a littel more. I am thinking about heating the tube with a torch, oxy A, and then applying a little hyd pressure. Then maybe welding some beefy cross tubes in place. If I screw the whole thing up I can just get a new QA fron Direct Attach.

 

[6sunset6]

I read posts for a while thinking and I think before I heat up the tube I am going to bounce it back and forth with the hydraulics . Maybe it will inch over.

I meant it was bent forward. The QA popped out on the right and the left one took the whole load.
SO blocking the right side short of full stroke allowed the left cyclinder to pull it back. Just have to kept it there.

Looked at Attach Direct over $1000. Guess Iam going to fix this puppy. I had taken the cylinder off to see if I could get something on it to bend it . Forget it.
I will post picture of the blocking tomorrow

 

[dqdave1]

Talk with dealer; It should not bend that easy. It might be a warranty issue. If not a warranty issue; remove crosstube and replace with larger dia. tube for added strength. I am afraid if you heat that tube, it will bend easy next time.

 

[Soundguy]

Only thing i can add is that if it is not a warranty issue.. and you do have to fix it yourself.. gusset it up and make it stronger if possible..

soundguy

 

[AndyMA]

Take a look at the Tach All's from ATI in this price sheet. Most of them have tubes from one side to the other. I've run an ATI for many years and it is very strong. Many times I even push boulders with it without a bucket on.

http://www.preseeder.com/PDF/Product_list_2007.pdf

Andy

 

[6sunset6]

Fixed Blocked it, Heated it up Started Tractor Curled. Ran up RPM curled some more. 3 times perfect. The tube is hot rolled steel. I could tell from the scale under the paint. I don't think heating and cooling makes any difference. I think the comments in another post about two cylinders and do they run even was hanging arouns in my sub concious (?) . I had to stop to help my wife with apple sauce making but I will get some paint on the tube later today. Also I am still thinking about adding a tube . I have some 2 x 3 tubing around that would add some stiffness with out a lot of weight. But maybe I will just make sure the latches are set.

Andy the Tach all was what I had on my 1320 for 11 years. Never had a problem. But then 34 HP is A LOT more than 20 HP

Notice the bent blocks Aluminum thats what I had around that fit. Whats the use of hydraulics if you can't make it work for you. Plus I am by myself ,makes it hard to hold three things in place at the same time. Would have been nice to have someone holding the tape maesure while I was curling.

 

[AndyMA]

Andy the Tach all was whay I had on my 1320 for 11 years. Never had a problem. But then 34 HP is A LOT more than 20 HP

.

I'm running the Tach All on a 43 hp 2120 and have been for probably over 15 years. It is stronger and works easier than the oem New Holland on my 75hp TN75D.

Andy

 

[jinman]

I'm running the Tach All on a 43 hp 2120 and have been for probably over 15 years. It is stronger and works easier than the oem New Holland on my 75hp TN75D.

Andy

I noticed ATI's tach-all is the same for 14LA thru 18LA loaders. However, my NH quick-attach for my 16LA has a large square torque tube instead of the small round tube Bob has on his 15LA. I've put some pretty uneven loads on my loader and never had a problem. Even so, the dual torque tubes of the ATI has got to be a much tougher design.

 

[6sunset6]

This is a 240 loader . I don't know if it is the same as the 16LA. The arms are 4 inches closer together than the 7308 that was on my 1320.
I could spend some time and try and add another tube.
It is actually kind of tight with the handles . I think I would have to cut out the round tube to get something else in there. It is fixed fine now. I think I will wait and just make sure they are latched. I think I may have had some dirt in between the two plates and did not notice when I threw the latch handles, although I should have.

 

[PineRidge]

Neighbor down the road damaged the QA on his TN70D and we couldn't get it realigned with a torch. We finally cut the tube in the center reattached the QA to his bucket to hold it square re-welded the cut and then strengthened the tube with heavy angle iron. It's worked well since.

I always lift the attachment to be sure the QA pins extend down through the QA plates before putting the attachment to work. It is possible that mud or even a stone will prevent the correct mating which will put undue stress on the whole QA assembly.