Brush Hogging Steep Slopes in the woods.
- Thread starter MMfrompa
- Start date
- Views: 11907
747driver
Veteran Member
Nice video ! Likewise...we live in the Cherokee National Forest and have slopes and gulleys you need to be aware of. Always keep the bucket down...it has saved me when you don't see that tree stump hidden !!! You can find yourself in a bad situation and wonder how you are going to get out of it....just take it slow and always look in front of you when going down hill.
TMR
Gold Member
Thanks for the good video. I maintain about 2-3 miles of trails and also "mow" a couple acre field a couple of times a year. While much of this ground has been mowed for quite a few years it is still pretty rough for a standard finish mower deck on a lawn tractor. I have learned to repair my mower decks...spindles/blades etc pretty often.
Curious about a brush hog "finish" appearance. First, does the brush hog pretty much ride on the rear tail wheel?...or is that kind of a guide? Your trail is similar to mine in many respects. Also, how resilient is the brush hog blades and spindle? I "know" where most of my rocks are but do ocassionaly hit a rock or stump...usually a glancing blow but sometimes more direct hit on a small stump. Assuming I use some level of care how much damage might a glancing blow to a rock of a hit on a small stump cause?
Just out of curiosity do you ever mow your trail after you brush hog...to make it more "mower" finished?
Thanks...like the 3901
TMR
Curious about a brush hog "finish" appearance. First, does the brush hog pretty much ride on the rear tail wheel?...or is that kind of a guide? Your trail is similar to mine in many respects. Also, how resilient is the brush hog blades and spindle? I "know" where most of my rocks are but do ocassionaly hit a rock or stump...usually a glancing blow but sometimes more direct hit on a small stump. Assuming I use some level of care how much damage might a glancing blow to a rock of a hit on a small stump cause?
Just out of curiosity do you ever mow your trail after you brush hog...to make it more "mower" finished?
Thanks...like the 3901
TMRThanks for the good video. I maintain about 2-3 miles of trails and also "mow" a couple acre field a couple of times a year. While much of this ground has been mowed for quite a few years it is still pretty rough for a standard finish mower deck on a lawn tractor. I have learned to repair my mower decks...spindles/blades etc pretty often.
Curious about a brush hog "finish" appearance. First, does the brush hog pretty much ride on the rear tail wheel?...or is that kind of a guide? Your trail is similar to mine in many respects. Also, how resilient is the brush hog blades and spindle? I "know" where most of my rocks are but do ocassionaly hit a rock or stump...usually a glancing blow but sometimes more direct hit on a small stump. Assuming I use some level of care how much damage might a glancing blow to a rock of a hit on a small stump cause?
Just out of curiosity do you ever mow your trail after you brush hog...to make it more "mower" finished?
Thanks...like the 3901
The brush hog is pretty tough, I've hit a few things with it and no problems at all. As far as the finish goes the brush hog does a decent job but not close to what a finish mower would. My problem is my only finish mower is a zero turn and I wouldn't dare take it on my trails lol. I wouldn't roll it, but slide down through the woods and end up in the stream lol. A nice 3 point mower would be nice to have
TMR
Gold Member
Thanks MM...your video also makes me want to move up to an L series versus the B series I am looking at
Perhaps a sharp blade on a brush hog would get the cut I am looking for...not golf course but not "beat" down in rows...or maybe a combo brush hog than real 3 point finish mower. Thanks...enjoyed your video...TMR
I find a sharp blade helps some, but the condition of what you are cutting seems to matter most. If it's pretty dry what you wheels run over won't come back up and get cut, but then pops up a day or so later. But if it's hearty from recent rain it tends to pop back up better and I get a better cut. But even then some stuff come back up in the tire tracks. Of course if the ground is damp you tear up the grass more when you turn, especially in the steep places.
Now I'm talking about a field I cut twice a year, so it's two feet high or so when I cut it. You may have better luck if you are cutting more often.
Now I'm talking about a field I cut twice a year, so it's two feet high or so when I cut it. You may have better luck if you are cutting more often.
747driver
Veteran Member
Thanks MM...your video also makes me want to move up to an L series versus the B series I am looking at
You don't sharpen brush hog blades. They are meant to have a blunt edge...it shatters the brush which in turn limits its regrowth. Its okay to blend out nicks and gouges but don't sharpen like a mower blade.
MESSMAKER
Veteran Member
I don't agree with this universally. Sharp blades in grass or weeds will yield a nicer cut. If you are cutting a lot of trees and you do not want a sharp blade as it may make the stump end into a small spear.
TMR
Gold Member
Thanks 747 and Messmaker...seems like each post makes good sense. I think I work way to hard to make my field of weeds/brush and some grass look like a "lawn"...but just a couple of times a year
Probably either need a flail mower, mow twice (brush hog and then finish mower) or continue to mow with a GT and expect frequent repairs...blades/spindles and bent parts. TMRLD48750
Veteran Member
Thanks 747 and Messmaker...seems like each post makes good sense. I think I work way to hard to make my field of weeds/brush and some grass look like a "lawn"...but just a couple of times a year
Or as a third option, shop for a 3 point finish mower that has thicker blades.
My Woods 6' 3 point finish mowers have blades that are 3/16" & 1/4" thick.
My BIL has a JD855 with a 5' mid mount mower that has 5/16" thick blades & cuts anything he runs over.
It also does a great job on his lawn.
