Brushbull Rear Mower ~ safe operation questions

[Coyote machine]

It has been over a year since I last used my Brushbull 72 Xtreme on my Kioti DK-40 se/hst and I want to get some feedback on proper start-up and operation. I don't have a lot of experience operating this piece of equipment and don't want to learn the hard way.
The BB has a slip clutch. What's the best/safest/easiest way to make sure the slip clutch is working properly at first start-up, so I don't damage my PTO or BB gearbox?

What do I need to put behind me in my open station tractor to keep anything from flying at my head/body?
It has a rubber, not chain guard, at the end closest to the PTO.
I will be cutting previously un-cut areas, and will have scrounged out all significant rocks etc. prior to running the BB through the new areas to be cut.
Is it better to remove the loader or keep it for ballast? Why?

Thanks for all feedback.
:thumbsup:
CM

 

[Fallon]

As for ballast, does your front end get light when you lift any implement on the 3pt? You can throw a couple hundred pounds of junk on to simulate a worst case scenario bouncing on an incline while on level ground. If the front is planted fine without the loader, you probably don't need any front ballast. If it gets light, you need the loader or ballast.

My L3200 has a really nice quick dismount loader that I hear can go on or off in under 5 minutes. I occasionally drop the SSQA bucket off, but just can't be bothered to pull the loader. It doesn't get in the way that much & may be needed ballast (never pulled it off, so can't do the test to see if it actually is).

If the front gets light, not only do you have steering issues, you are dangerously close to doing a wheely on your tractor. Think of your tractor like a see-saw... Nobody had fun when the fat kid (heavy implement on the 3pt or hanging on the loader) got on unless you got a couple non-fat kids on the other side (ballast).

Read your owners manual for the implement on testing/adjusting the slip clutch. It should probably be done annually if kept outdoors.

 

[RoyJackson]

As far as adjusting the slip clutch, there should be instructions in your operator's manual. Woods uses at least two different types of slip clutches (per my Bushbull manual) with different adjustment processes. Follow the manual instructions and you know you'll be doing it right.

As far as protection from thrown objects, I don't use anything but I'm mostly cutting field grass. Some folks use a section of expanded metal attach to the ROPS (might need two pieces if you have a folding ROPS.

As far as leaving the loader mounted...depends. If the tractor can handle the rear weight with no loader and you have limited clearance (meaning lots of trees), might be best to try it without the loader. I just did that, BTW, and I think I'll be mounting the loader before continuing my work.
The loader can also be used to push down saplings, small trees and such before running over them with your tractor....this can protect your machine from branches and such getting jammed in places you don't want...such as your radiator.

 

[TripleR]

Good advice, we own Woods and Land Pride so we have to look at the manuals each spring to adjust the slip clutches. Chain guards are a very good investment as we've never had anything get past ours, but do on the ones with rubber guards. We also built a grill guard of expanded metal, even with FEL on we got some damage. Our tractor rides smoother and is more maneuverable without FEL, but we need it for ballast in the hills, so we run with and without depending on terrain.

 

[Mike_Kanzer]

I prefer to mow with suitcase weights on the front end of my tractor rather than leaving the FEL on. My l3830 kubota uses 220lbs on front to balance my woods BB60 which I think is about 600lbs. I like the added weight up front for stability. I have also mowed with the FEL with the quick attach bucket off. I have to be more careful around fences with the FEL on so I prefer the weights. Mike