Loader Bucket falling

[Bobby22]

I have a TC33D 2002 I believe, and it seems as though my bucket will not stay in the full back position. It will start to slowly drop forward. I have checked the pressure at the input to the joystick cluster and I have 2100 PSI which is good. Wondering if the seals in the joy stick cluster could be leaking. It has been slipping for the last few months, but now it is tipping forward faster these days. I have to hold the joy stick in so the load stays in the bucket. Obviously it is worse when I have dirt in it. Any other tips, as the manual is less then helpful with this issue.

All help or guidance will be appreciated.

 

[ruffdog]

Disconnect the curl hoses and if it still does it.....bad cyl seals.

 

[Bobby22]

OK, I have done this in the past and a tractor guy told me that, that doesn't matter because it is not leaking externally. I was wondering about the internal leaking past the orings. I tried it again today and I removed the pressure side and return side at the quick disconnect and it still falls to the ground. Not real fast but it falls. My question now is can I isolate which one is the issue or should I have both rebulit?

 

[WinterDeere]

OK, I have done this in the past and a tractor guy told me that, that doesn't matter because it is not leaking externally. I was wondering about the internal leaking past the orings. I tried it again today and I removed the pressure side and return side at the quick disconnect and it still falls to the ground. Not real fast but it falls. My question now is can I isolate which one is the issue or should I have both rebulit?

Get yourself a pair of snap ring pliers and two rebuild o-ring kits. This is easy DIY stuff, on most tractors.

I’d just do both. Once you clear a work space and get them off the tractor, it’s too easy not to just do them both.

 

[Bobby22]

OK, I think I have found the correct seal kit for my FEL. I watched a video on replacing all the seals and what not. Question instead of trying to break the seal on the end cap in a vise would it hurt anything if I were to break the end cap loose when it is still attached to the tractor? Just seems easier then trying to do it in the vise. In the video I saw the guy tighten it up installed after he completed the reseal and he worked for a dealership?

 

[Billrog]

I always do it on the tractor no need to remove the tube at all.

 

[ptsg]

Just do it on the tractor. It's already secure and you won't scratch all the paint by putting it on the vise, then it starts slipping on the vise jaws because the end cap on cylinders are usually really tight.

If you happen to not find the seal kit, just take all the seals out, go to a hydraulic shop and buy it individually.

 

[Bobby22]

Ok, I'll give it a shot. Thanks for all the help and suggestions. Will follow up after I get the kits and have the time.

 

[WinterDeere]

Just make sure you have a clean work space to lay out the parts as you work. Some kraft paper taped down on the bench does a nice job.

 

[Bobby22]

Well I finished last weekend and forgot to update my repair. I choose to rebuild the right side first as it was closest to my workbench. Getting the nut off wasn't a problem once I fashioned a breaker bar out of a piece of scrap metal I had laying around. It was sort of difficult figuring out which seal went where as the old ones were about nonexistent. I watched a you tube vid on a similar one and worst part was the 2 part o-ring that kept splitting apart while trying to squeeze it into the gusset. The guy "Hoot" in the video said there was a special tool for the gusset o-ring, but I figured I could get it sooner or later. well after persistence I finally got it to drop in. Slapped it all back together reinstalled it and that was the one causing the problem. So, I will save the other kit for any further issues. Over all I would say easy project for someone that has never done it before. Thanks for all the tips and help once again my friends.