Bucket hooks

   / Bucket hooks #1  

BlacknTan

Platinum Member
Joined
May 26, 2006
Messages
987
Location
Adirondacks of NY
Tractor
Kubota B-7800
I know this topic has been discussed alot in the past because I've been reading old threads for two days. Aldo looked at the AW direct website.

What I haven't seen discussed, and would like to know, is what size grab hooks would people here use on LA 402 Loader?

5/16, 3/8, or 1/2??
 
   / Bucket hooks #2  
For your loader, either the 5/16 or 3/8 would work. Personally, I'd go with the 3/8. You can still use 5/16 chain with it as well as 3/8 chain. I can't see you ever needing to use a 1/2" chain, and I'm a 'go big or stay at home' kind of guy.
 
   / Bucket hooks #4  
I'm using the 3/8" hooks on my LA402
 
   / Bucket hooks #5  
Doesn't it sort of depend on where you're mounting them?

I used smaller hooks at the front of the bucket, but put a big sucker on the back of the curl cylinder plate.

(photo attached)

Russell in Texas
 

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   / Bucket hooks #6  
rdsaustintx said:
Doesn't it sort of depend on where you're mounting them?

I used smaller hooks at the front of the bucket, but put a big sucker on the back of the curl cylinder plate.

(photo attached)

Russell in Texas

Not implying that anything is wrong or right, but I've never seen hooks placed where you have. Interesting. I went with more of a traditional placement. This is where I have put hooks on the last several tractors I've owned. Some guys like to put a slip hook in the center, but I personally prefer a grab hook there as well. In all the years I've been doing this, I've never broken or even bent a hook. I think the key is that you must weld a plate of at least 1/4" thickness where your hook is going to be attached. Otherwise, you'll just either pull a chunk out of your bucket or bend your bucket all to heck.
 

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   / Bucket hooks #7  
rdsaustintx, I suggest that you weld a reinforcement plate to the back edge of that bucket, because if you don't and you try to lift something heavy, that top edge is going to bend out of shape and the hook itself might just tear off. I also like to see the hooks more parallel to the bucket, because the way that you have them pointed, you can only grab toward the center of the bucket. Many times, you might want to lift something from the outer edge of the bucket rather than the center. Most hooks don't have much more than a 14 degree of angle... yours look more like 45 degrees. Please don't take this as a criticism, but as a helpful suggestion from an old rigger...
 
   / Bucket hooks #8  
Dusty said:
rdsaustintx, I suggest that you weld a reinforcement plate to the back edge of that bucket, because if you don't and you try to lift something heavy, that top edge is going to bend out of shape and the hook itself might just tear off. I also like to see the hooks more parallel to the bucket, because the way that you have them pointed, you can only grab toward the center of the bucket. Many times, you might want to lift something from the outer edge of the bucket rather than the center. Most hooks don't have much more than a 14 degree of angle... yours look more like 45 degrees. Please don't take this as a criticism, but as a helpful suggestion from an old rigger...

You betchum it will!! I bent mine with a 10 inch cresant wrench just to see how stiff it was...BEFORE I stiffened it up. On my 403 FEL..I attached a 2 x 3 piece of 1/4 thick angle iron all the way across the back of the upper lip and welded my hooks and such to the angle iron instead of the bucket lip. I used 5/16's hooks...but added a clevis in the middle so that I can use about any size hook I run across.
 

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   / Bucket hooks #9  
Dusty said:
rdsaustintx, I suggest that you weld a reinforcement plate to the back edge of that bucket, because if you don't and you try to lift something heavy, that top edge is going to bend out of shape and the hook itself might just tear off.

Not sure what you mean by the "back edge". If you mean at the top of the bucket, I did put on doublers, but not all the way across.

On the back of the bucket the curl cylinder plate is like 1/4" thick, plus the bucket back. I was more afraid of buckling the thing (or burning through the bucket) with the heat required to add another doubler (a tripler?) back there.

The front bucket hooks went on while TBN was changing software and couldn't search, so I was winging it. I pointed them toward the middle because I am a fraidy cat about torquing the whole boom assembly. I haven't used them - every time I want to tug on something I use a drawbar or a chain around the upper brace of my BB. So far, they are just Bubba bling :)

The big back hook is perfect for lifting though. I have stalled it pulling fence posts with no damage (so far). I got the idea here, but don't remember who sent the photo. It is intended to lift straight up, so the connection should be nearly pure shear, I don't think it can cause nearly as much bending moment as the curl cylinder normally does. It is a very stiff lift point and close to the front of the tractor, so the rear tends to stay put. I really like it.

If I DO bend anything, count on another picture here!

Thanks,


Russell in Texas
 
   / Bucket hooks #10  
I put one grab hook in the middle and have not needed anything more.
I welded a standard hook that was cut to set flat at the double thick portion just above the cylinder attach point
 

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