Building Garage/Shop Dimensions - Most Efficient Use of Building Materials

[Beltzington]

Planning on building a frame RV garage and shop and was wondering the rule of thumb when deciding on plans.
As a minimum I need an 24'wide by 40'long by 12'high (doors) structure. Planning on a 4-6-inch poured concrete pad with at least 12" of pad extending past the building edges.

We have plenty of area to build on so I am not limited on the final size of this building.

Should I build just what I need, go bigger or go home? Do I need a 6" pad for an 5-ton vehicle? What dimensions are the most cost effective? Not asking for a detailed plan, just like to hear what you learned during a similar project. Appreciate your thoughts.

 

[bcp]

I've NEVER heard anyone complain that their shop was too big.

Bruce

 

[dmccarty]

Design with sizes that are divisible by four or at least by two. Less cutting mean less time to build which saves money. Odd number lengths require cutting meaning time and wasted wood which spends money.

I would build bigger than needed especially for the shop. If you think you will ever get a larger RV you would not want the building to be a limiter.

Later,
Dan

 

[Ted Summey]

Most efficient will be on multiples of 4' like you have planned. My inspections department required a footing on my 30x48' shop (it is an engineered metal building) They allowed a monolithic pour. I do park equipment and truck inside so I went with a 6" slab.

I agree nobody ever has complained of having too much shop space. It will be as cheap now as it ever will be to build the extra space.

 

[Western]

Why the 12" extension (concrete)??

Like the others said, never hear complaints that someones shop is to big!

I'd say you need a minimum of 14' if you're going 12' doors. A building that tall will allow you to add shed roofs on the free sides, or totally enclosed "shorter" rooms for misc storage, mowers and the like.

May also consider, or ask the fellas here on using scissor trusses, that will free up some height in the middle of the shop (allow you almost the full height inside.), but in turn, you wont be able to use the trusses much for light storage.

 

[Beltzington]

Why the 12" extension (concrete)??

Just have never like the looks of a shop where the sides are flush with the pad or I may just need someplace to set my empties

 

[Ted Summey]

The extra 12" are okay but make sure that apron turns down to run water away or you will have water coming under the bottom plate. UNLESS you have enough "empties" to catch he rain.

 

[Western]

The extra 12" are okay but make sure that apron turns down to run water away or you will have water coming under the bottom plate. UNLESS you have enough "empties" to catch he rain.

Thats what I was thinking, plus the added expense, but if you need a place for a "can or bottle" by all means

 

[teejk]

funny thing is that pre-fab steel panels cover 3'. Lumber comes in 4' increments. Easier to cut lumber than steel so I'd plan with the steel in mind to minimize the cuts.

 

[dave1949]

The more square you make the building, the better the ratio of perimeter wall to enclosed square feet of space will be. The longer the rectangle, the worse the ratio becomes. It is not a big savings, but something to consider.

Also, barn metal comes in widths to cover 36" when installed, so a number that is evenly divisible by 3 and 2 works well. 42 ft and 48 ft are examples.

I think the first thing to nail down is how many doors of what width(s) do you need? I would try to put doors I will use year-round on a gable end so sliding snow isn't a problem blocking the doorways. That's likely not a problem for you in Georgia, but doors in the gable end should reduce the needed door header sizes too, since the side walls are carrying the truss load. Figure out where the best location for the man door will be too.

The next thing is how long is the longest thing you would ever park inside? Add 3-4' of clearance to that length at each end of the building.

When you know those things, the building sort of designs itself to a large degree.

40' is a fairly common Class A RV length, so a 40' long building is too short for those. I think some are a bit longer too.

As a general rule, always size your building as if you will win the lottery, even if you don't, the building will be full. :laughing: