Building rollers for sawmill toe-board

[mrtwister]

Hello to all!!

I'm building roller toe boards for my sawmill much like the one pictured below.....they are used to raise the small end of a log so the log-center/pith at both ends of the log are an equal distance from the mill bunks which ensures a proper first cut.....my plan is to build the actual roller from 2" gas pipe. My dilemma is that I'm not sure how to incorporate bearings and a shaft to complete the roller itself....I've done multiple searches on the net for ideas but could not find anything to match what I need to do. Can a bearing be inserted into each end then spot welded to secure it before inserting a shaft or will the heat damage the bearing? (assuming I could find a bearing that would fit inside the end of the pipe).....or is there another easier or more efficient way to build this thing?

Does anyone have any ideas or experience building rollers like this?.....any input is appreciated....thank you.....Twister

 

[shadetree]

I would look for a bearing that would "press fit".

 

[GLyford]

How about just using an existing conveyor roller? You'd spend more time and aggravation trying to make one...

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[Rustyiron]

If the bandmill in your avatar is your mill, I wonder why you need any rolling action at all. The log only needs to go up, not back & forth right? (the log stays still while the saw passes throught it)
I would think a 4" or better pipe would provide a smooth enough surface to take what little l/r movement might happen while raising it a few inches.

But to your point, a pipe with a 1" shaft welded solidly through the center of the pipe, THEN going into a bearing at each end with the 1" shaft would be pretty simple. Bearing service would be totally independant of the actual roller.

 

[Mysfyt]

What GLyford said. One end of the axle on the roller is spring loaded, so it will fit in between brackets similar to your picture. Roller gets damaged, just pop a new one in.

 

[mrtwister]

Thanks to all for your replies.

shadetree: I will check around for one of these press-fit bearings. :thumbsup:

GLyford & Mysfyt: I did consider your option at one time however I'm not confident that such rollers would withstand the weight of the logs which often weigh in at well over 1000 lbs each...this is why I'm thinking of building it from gas pipe and other heavy duty components.

Rustyiron: yes the mill in the avatar is my mill and yes you are correct for the most part, the end of the log goes up and down and should not not go back and forth. I do want to leave the back and forth option open however which is the reason for the roller. Usually, these roller toe boards are sold in pairs, one for each end of the log, in case it needs to be re-positioned on the mill, front to back. Rollers facilitate this process. I want to keep this option open....if the roller build goes well, I may fab-up another for the other end which extends the usefulness of the toe boards. To address your last line regarding a 1" pipe welded solidly through the center of the pipe....how would you support that 1" shaft inside the 2" pipe?......washers welded at both ends?...or other method?....I get what you are saying about the shaft going into independent bearings at each end....I presume you mean pillow bearings right?....in any case thanks....you got the gears in my head turning! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[Jim Timber]

Pipe is for transporting fluids. Tubing is for holding things in place. Don't build anything but hand railings in pipe - it's not strong enough and it's ductile so it'll bend to poop on you under any real weight.

You could build your rollers with pillow blocks if you wanted. I got heavy duty rollers from SC about 10 years ago that'll handle a log easy. Just need to look for other sources like HGR in Ohio or fleabay. HGR's website: Used Industrial Equipment at HGR Industrial Surplus

 

[Rustyiron]

You could call it a washer. I would use at least 1/4" thick and make one for each end of the outside pipe. The shaft through the pipe would need to be solid, and if it were suported within a few inches, 1" thick would be my guess for size. Some cold rolled would prolly be good enough and you might get away with only a crude bronze bushing for the bearings. Very low speed and intermittant use, but a pair of either pillow block or maybe a flange type bearings would be quick and easy, depending on your mounting situation.

 

[Barry 1]

From Cook's Saw

 

[GLyford]

There are also flanged bearings made similar to pillow blocks, but made to mount flat on a frame (like a piece of channel or such):

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