Building trails

[JCA]

Can somebody give me the quick-and-dirty version of how you use a tractor to help build trails? I've got some hilly, wooded land and would like to carve some walking (and tractor!) paths trough it. What implements do I need, and how do you use them to make a trail? I'll need to carve out flat (or flatter) parts out of hills that have may a 25% grade.

I haven't bought the tractor yet; just want to make sure I can get it to do what I want it to do.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[Henro]

I don't know what the correct answer is... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

But for me, a rotary cutter, box blade and loader seem to work. Add a backhoe if you have a lot of stumps where you want the trails to go.

25% grades...well hope you are going up or down them...

Mabye a RFM if you get things where you want and plan on planting grass on the trails...MMM might be fine too...once things are lawn like where you want to cut... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Now that we got the tread started maybe those with more experience will chime in! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Egon]

A FEL will do just fine.

Egon

 

[BigAl]

25 % trails are going to require some thought . Try to angle up side hilling and cut yourself a level path as you go . This means you keep stealing dirt from the high side of the path with the FEL as you go SLOWLY!!! Do not let the tractor side hill on that much grade or you might be in for one heck of a surprize . Make sure the finished path is on virgin soil or it might slip off in wet weather . Remember "improper drainage" is a roads or paths worst enemy .
Big Al

 

[AndyMA]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I don't know what the correct answer is... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

But for me, a rotary cutter, box blade and loader seem to work. Add a backhoe if you have a lot of stumps where you want the trails to go.

25% grades...well hope you are going up or down them...

Mabye a RFM if you get things where you want and plan on planting grass on the trails...MMM might be fine too...once things are lawn like where you want to cut... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Now that we got the tread started maybe those with more experience will chime in! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif )</font>

Every thing mentioned above plus a backhoe if you need to cut into any banks, remove stumps, dig out rocks etc.

Andy

 

[txdon]

JCA, everything mentioned above. Teeth on the bucket help a lot. Also you might want to get or make a brush guard for the front of you tractor. The attached set of photos shows a road/trail that took about two hours to make using the FEL.

 

[John_Mc]

I've got to agree with Henro's recommendations on equipment. I would also secong the recommendation for a toothbar for your FEL. You might get by without the boxblade in some places, but you'll find it a real timesave overall, and indespensable on side hills: A box blade (or a rear blade) will let you change the angle on a side hill (i.e. leverl the trail left-to-right) much more easily than doing it with the Loader, since you can adjust the tilt on a boxblade or rear blade.

I'd recommend reading up a bit on some of the threads here on dirt/gravel roads or driveways (there are a few links to good info in some of these threads as well). A lot of this will probably be overkill. You don't need to know a lot about geotextile fabric or type or gravel surfaces for a typical "trail", but some of the stuff on erosion and drainage will be good reading.

I'd recommend against trying to build a trail straight up slopes as steep as you mentioned. Yes, it's easier & safer to drive your tractor straight up a 25% grade than to drive across it. But you are asking for serious erosion problems with a trail like that. If you do switchbacks, or follow terrain contours when possible, you can cut the trail level with your FEL, backblade (or backhoe, if needed) when on a side hill. This will give you a nice, safe trail, and be easier to control water flow.

John Mc

 

[RedHawkRidge]

JCA:
I'm in Western Wis, mostly hills and valleys. My recommendation is to have a cat/dozer cut your roads. Here nearly all the hills are logged, and there's plenty of available excavation co's who specialize in cutting logging roads. They are amazingly skillful in their craft, notching into the hillside, working around rock outcroppings, or pushing out boulders, etc. They always start on top and work down -- you mark the path with flagging, and they will cut a mile or more in a day. It's definitely worth $800-1000 for a day's work.
You'll find that notching with the FEL isn't very effective. Just smoothing the cut with a CUT on a narrow cleared path is difficult. You will find plenty of cleanup work even if your soil is free of rocks. Water runoff needs to be controlled with diversion channels or similar methods -- see your DNR or Ag extension office.
Jim