Rear Blade Bush Hog 70-06 blade help

[GreenwoodVA]

Hey guys,

I have had this blade on my tractor for about 15 years. I love this thing. I have it combined with a top/tilt kit and worked a half mile road with it the entire time as well as, ahem, other things. This bad boy is right. I have known this day would come for a long time & have tried to figure it out. Today I started in on it.
If you own one of these then you know there is a 1 13/16? stop nut up in a cavity at the rear which LOOKS LIKE you should be able to tighten it to adjust tolerance on the pivot plate. Over the years, the thing has worn some to where it has some slop in it that causes it to shudder and skip under use. I finally sucked it up and bought a 3/4 socket to use just for this purpose. The daggone threads were sticking down too far to fit a socket on it, so first I had to deal with grinding it off so I could even get the socket on it. THEN, I find out that there is no plate on the head of the bolt to keep it from turning inside the enclosed housing at the top. So... all the bolt does is spin in the housing & nut can not be tightened to close up tolerance. The lateral pivot at the top that goes through the housing has a double nut on it which if removed MAY allow access to the bolt head, but not real sure, and that double nut is on there tighter than Dick's hat band. Get the feeling I am going to break my tool attempting to get it loose.
Anybody have a trick for dealing with this? I hope I am missing something simple because if not, this is a REALLY dumb design on a good attachment.
Thanks for any help

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I wish we had a pict. of what you are talking about, as I can't pict. it in my mind...

I have a 90-08 and I'm wondering if it's similar...

SR

 

[GreenwoodVA]

Attempting to add photos. Changed orientation on me, but you can see what we are dealing w I hope. 1st one attempts to show the cavity that the nut is in. 2nd is the enclosed portion. Couch cushion and carpet are essential for work you know.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Thanks for the picts., it's different than my back blade...

I think taking it apart is a good idea...and you have some choices, starting with "blaster" or "liquid wrench", keeping it soaked for a few days.

Heat on the nuts, and a "cheater" on the handle of the wrench...

You can also take a chisel and "split" the nuts, then take them off and buy new ones. Splitting nuts goes pretty fast...

SR

 

[GreenwoodVA]

Thanks. I guess I will resort to taking that pivot apart. Maybe weld something onto the bolt head so as not to have to do a repeat later. Hope there is adequate room to get a large adjustable on there once apart.
It felt like a cheater was going to break my breaker bar. Nuts do not seem that rusty compared to other stuff I have dealt w on old cars. The best penetrant/bolt buster is a 50/50 mix of ATF & acetone. Works far better than PB, Kroil or the rest. I call it the magic elixer. Amazing results. Highly recommend trying & having a Qt on hand.

 

[3Lfarms]

If you don’t have the proper wrenches for those nuts, destroying them is inevitable. I usually start with a dull cold chisel and a 5 lb hammer and go at it as if you are trying to split the nut, then when you have a decent divot, angle the chisel so each blow tends to loosen the nut. You would be surprised how much torque you can apply to a bolt or nut in that manner. Sometimes you can get them off without doing too much damage. If it still won’t come off, then split the nut like Sawyer Rob said.