Bush Hog blade sharpening

[Richardb]

Last weekend I cleared about 5 acres of old field that had grown in with small popular, pine and high spyria using a Bush Hog 5' Squealer, to encourage the wild blueberries to grow. It's pretty amazing what that will chew up, but I hit a number of rocks and dinged up the blades. It still cuts fine, but vibrates a bit, and though the blades don't look bent, they just have some large gouges in them.

I'd like to sharpen them after I finish up clearing, as I'll be able to see the rocks from now on. They will no doubt need a fair bit of grinding - do I have to think about balancing them, and if so, do any of you tractor sages have advice on how to do this?

Thanks!

 

[Bird]

RichardB, I really can't say just how important it is to balance the blades (or how precisely they need to be balanced) on any brush hog, but it sure seems like the right thing to do to me. When I had a 4' Bush Hog Squealer SQ48, I sharpened the blades several times (and finally even replaced them once after wearing them down considerably), and I simply used some scales I have to weigh them each time I sharpened them and simply ground them down to exactly the same weight each time. It was one tough little mower, worked well, was abused, and kept on working with no noticeable vibration.

Bird

 

[Thomas]

Yes Indeed Richard bush hog can save one a lot of time and bending over.

Far as sharpening the blades go,try and sharpen your blades even than weight them.

The old fashsion way I was taught to balance a blade was with a hack saw blade.
Put a hack saw blade in a vice with the cutting edge up,after sharpening your blade find the center of the blade and lay it on the hack saw blade.
Believe it or not it does work.
When I sharpen my blades I use a hand grinder with a 60 grit disk not a stone disk,for I found out it does a better job.

I use a old set of blades when bush hogging a new area so I can find out where the stones and other goodies are,than I put on a much better set of blades and mowe the area again which makes everything looks twice as nice.

Have fun and go slow. )

 

[W5FL]

I have hit a lot of rock with my Bush Hog. Cut hugh gashes in 2 3/8 pipe with 1/4 wall (goes completely through wall) and the only thing that ever broke the mower was a car tire!

I always put the mower up on a couple of antenna sections to get clearance to climb under and used a hand grinder. Never balanced any blades. This was a six foot Rhino brush hog. The blades are put on so tight that my impact wrench wouldn't budge them, so never took them off. I am glad they are put on well as my dad had one go THROUGH the side of the mower and landed about 100 ft from the mower. Remember the directions not to stand near a mower. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Bird]

On finish mower blades, riding mower blades, and walk behind mower blades, I too, balance the center of the blade on something (I generally use a small diameter round rod like the shaft of a small screwdriver), but how can you do that with brush hog blades, since you have two individual blades, only sharpened on one end, and bolted to a "pan" or "stump jumper" in the middle? And a lot of folks I know sharpen them without removing them from the mower, so they can only guess at whether they are balanced or not. That's the reason I said I don't know just how important balancing them is, but I remove mine and sharpen them on the bench grinder. And my impact wrench will remove them. It it wouldn't, I'd be trading impact wrenches.

Bird

 

[gordon]

Bird I think you might be cheetin on this one---about the impact gun that is. Not everyone has a I.R. F719 or what I have a 234A. But with tools you get what you pay for. I could buy a couple new orange Kubotas with what I have invested in my tools and boxes over the years and that is no JOKE. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
I think that the hacksaw method would work well if you balanced one blade and measured it at its balance point--then repeat for the second blade. The blade with the longer measurement from the center point of the blade is the one to gauge by for your balance measurement.
Actually it's a great idea I only sharpen my blades have never took the time to balance them--mabe that's why my brush hog vibrates alittle. Ya think? Thanks for the simple idea now all I need to do is take the time to do it one day. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Bird]

I'm certainly not saying there's anything wrong with sharpening them without taking them off; it's a common practice. I just find it easier for myself if I remove them and get them to the bench grinder. And I feel better knowing they're balanced. Of course, I also look at it from the viewpoint that if I can't get them off to sharpen them, what am I going to do if or when I have to replace them?/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif So, I'll get them off if it takes the cutting torch./w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif Gordon, what brand is that 234A? Are you talking about a MAC AW234A? If so, it's made by Ingersoll Rand and ought to max out at more than 400 ft./lbs., depending on how worn and how well lubricated it is (I've learned that a lot of mechanics don't know that dimple on the back end is a grease fitting).

Bird

 

[gordon]

Not to brag but its the toughest 1/2" drive in the shop and I have two of those grease guns one for my impact wrench and one for my chainsaw. Your right it's a Mac tools racing gun I've had it for about four or five years now it still runs like new.
Your equipment is only as good as you keep it. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Bird]

I guess I shouldn't say anything about mechanics not knowing to grease those impact wrenches; I only learned a couple of months ago that I should be using that same grease gun on my chain saw./w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif And yep, that impact wrench is one of my favorites, both to work on and to use.

Bird

 

[gordon]

On my Husqvarnas there are two grease points one the sprocket tip and the needle bearing in the clutch. At 13.500 R.P.M. and no grease makes for some good galling/welding and that is not a good thing. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Oh and for all you Stihl lovers I'll be watching the tree fall while your still cutting. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
The Amish man down the road tunes my saws and man is he good and very cheap in price but with a two stroke he is awsome.

 

[W5FL]

Re: Impact Wrenches

Bird, I am going to buy a 3/4 inch impact wrench and maybe replace my 1/2 inch as it does not seem to be strong enough for many of the uses I seem to have. Tractor supply has a double hammer tool that shows lots of foot pounds for about $135 for the 3/4 inch. What kind and price would you suggest.

Also my air ratchets (3/8 and 1/2) are only good for about 45 ft pounds and that is not near enough to tighten the nuts to hold on tiller blades. There is only about 6 inches of head room to work a tool and socket in and leave room for the bolt to come out. Is there a better solution as I am really tired of laying on my back and trying to push two box ends to get 120 ft pounds or so to hold them and they STILL come loose even double nutted.

This thread is bush hog sharpening. Why don't you start us a new thread on air tools or impact wrenches? /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Bird]

Re: Impact Wrenches

Wen, I don't how I, and my big mouth, get off topic like this, but since I'm "replying" to your message, I guess it'll just be here. And since I've only been in this little sideline a couple of years, I do not claim to be an expert on air tools. There are more out there that I've never seen than there are that I've worked on. And I really don't recommend any specific brand because there are a lot of good ones; you just need to read the specs to see whether it will meet your needs. I'm a little partial to Ingersoll Rand and Chicago Pneumatic (and most Matco and Mac tools are made by one of them) because of parts availability and parts prices. The only 3/4" impact I know of that Tractor Supply has is rated at about 750 ft./lbs., which is plenty for most of us, but not particularly strong as far as 3/4" impacts go. Of course, since most of the "name brand" 3/4" impacts sell for about $500 and up, I'll buy the cheap one if it meets my needs; knowing that parts may or may not be available if ever needed, but also knowing that if it's kept clean and lubricated, it'll probably outlast me. In other words, just know what you're buying. For example, the CP734 is very popular and rated at about 425 ft./lbs., and there are a whole lot of off brand "clones" or imitations that look and work just as well, but only rated at 230-250 ft./lbs.

Ratchets provide speed, but just do not provide a lot of torque, and if you get in the habit of manually pulling on them to tighten, or break loose, bolts, you'll soon be replacing head parts. The IR111 (knuckle saver) is the only one I know of that is a combination ratchet and impact, making it the strongest one I know of, but it ain't cheap (around $180), and still probably won't get those nuts as tight as you want.

I don't know of any way to change those tiller tines other than what you're doing, but I don't understand why they won't stay. I've just never had one come loose. Good luck with it.

Bird

 

[Richardb]

Thanks Bird and Thomas, It makes sense to me to match their weights and center of gravity, and to use the hand ginder on them. It's got to be easier on the bearings to balance them somewhat. I appreciate the advice!

 

[Richardb]

If I cant get them off, I'll block it up as you mention. It's a fright to think of a blade coming loose. I send the kids to the neighbors when I mow our front field as it is somewhat near the house, both for the noise and the chance something might break off and go thru the window. A blade would probably go thru the side of the house!

 

[gerard]

Unless I'm missing something wouldn't the easiest most accurate way to balance them be to hang each from a bar or something with the fulcrum in the middle and see if they stay even?? (Like a balance scale works?)

 

[Bird]

Sure that would be the most accurate way, if you have a proper balance scale, and of course, it wouldn't be hard to build something. I just do it by weighing them on the scales because I happen to have some pretty accurate scales handy, so I haven't taken the time or trouble to make anything else.

Bird

 

[Wingnut]

I haven't had to sharpen mine yet ... but I finally learned what this "shear bolt" business is all about. Man ... those 5/8" shear bolts snap kinda slick. I will now take down those 2" trees more carefully ... got too many wedged under the deck at one time and something had to go ... and the bolt did. Lesson number one on new rotary cutter: carry spare shear bolts, nuts and a hammer and drift the get the center piece out.
But ... it was fun until I hit that bunch ... even got to go into 4 wheel for the second time in 25 hours (didn't see that drain ditch in the trees ...)
As many others have said ... seat belts are GOOD!

too bad that common sense ain't

 

[Wingnut]

On the question of "balancing" ... I'd go with the suggestion of weighing them. This is NOT a fine cutting blade and doesn't attach in the center ... so balancing the blade to make sure the weight is the same on both sides of the center is irrelevant. Making sure that both blades are apoproximately the same size and are the same weight is important, though, to reduce vibration.

Mohammed ... how many posts to get rid of this "new member" salutation? I've been reading Marks;', Birds' and PaulB's post so long that I don't feel the slightest bit new.

too bad that common sense ain't

 

[Bird]

Wingnut, you've got to learn to spell his name first./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif But look at the site news and I think you'll find the numbers that go with the titles. Of course, there may be a 200 post demerit for that spelling./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Bird

 

[Billc]

When buying air tools - or any other tools for that matter - y'all may be over looking one source for buying top quality tools at a great price. A pawn shop.

My wife's family has been in the pawn shop business for 15 years. I had never been in one until I met her 10 years ago. There are some really great deals.

When buying from a pawn shop make sure to go to one where the owner has been there for awhile and guarantees his merchandise. The good ones do and will.

As you buy more and more from the shop you will get better and better deals.