Bush Hog Top Link Pin

[Knight9]

Hi all,

I have a problem with the swivel on the top of my King Kutter rotary cutter. The bolt that goes through the top link is held on by a snap ring (pin with a ring on it) which I believe is standard. The problem is a couple of days ago I was mowing and "felt" that something just wasn't quite right with the cutter. I was quite surprised to see that the whole bolt was missing and the top link was just laying on the cutter. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

I figured I didn't snap the ring on properly or something. Berated myself a little and went and bought another bolt and snap ring. Was out mowing last night and decided to keep a closer eye on the top link. Turned around at one point and the snap ring was gone!!! /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif Another few minutes and I probably would have lost the bolt again!!

I think the swivel is hitting the snap ring and is breaking it when the cutter moves up and down over the terrain. Anyone else with a swivel at the top link have such a problem?

Kevin

 

[Bird]

I've lost a couple of the rings from my lower links, but never had that problem with the top link. I guess you know the "bolts" (big pin that goes through the link) come in different lengths. I wonder if you're using one that's too long. You may want to get one that's just barely long enough to go through and let you put the ring (lynch pin?) on.

Bird

 

[OregonTom]

I have the same set up you do but have never had a problem. I suggest you contact King Kutter and ask them for advice. If you don't have it you can get contact information at www.kingkutter.com. I have contacted them twice and have found them to be very helpful.

OregonTom

 

[rmacan]

I've had the same thing happen with my top link pin on my Bushhog. I am using a pin that is long enough to move length wise (ie. too long) in the holes and it may be as Bird pointed out that in certain positions the edge of the frame the piviot link moves through may be catching the latching pin and poping it off. For a quick fix I safety wired the latching pin to the link pin and that seems to have stopped whatever was happening.

 

[Knight9]

The pin/bolt that I am using is the shortest length that will still allow me to get a snap ring through. Perhaps I actually need a longer one (if there is one) that will put the ring outside of the swivel link bracket. This would prevent the pin from banging against the bracket. I did have to get this bolt though as the one that "came with the tractor" was far too short for the width of the swivel on the Rotary Cutter.

I must admit though, I was a little surprised that the pin would just break!!

Kevin

 

[DaveM]

Kevin,

I have a variety of different pins for both bottom and top links. Some take "snap rings" and others use a sort of bobby pin gizmo. That's a poor description but they work like a cotter pin and the hole thru the pin is aprx. 1/16" in diameter. Maybe one of that style will work better for you than the snap ring type.

Dave

 

[Doublezero]

Kevin,

I'm a real novice so don't be insulted by my input.

I had a problem with lynch pins being snapped off with my mower and learned that my problem was too much drift (side to side action) was popping off the pins. I took the "slack" out of the lower draft links and solved my problem.

Larry

 

[Knight9]

Larry,

Thanks for the input. Certainly not insulted! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif The problem is not with the drift however. I always tighten up the bottom links before using any 3ph implement ( I know some are supposed to have a little sway....but I keep it good and firm for all the implements I use).

The problem is actually at the swivel link on the King Kutter top link connection. Just the way the swivel is built causes the snap ring to come in contact with a solid metal bar whenever the swivel flexes down. The constant banging (due to uneven turf) is causing the snap ring to break, fall out and leaves the top link through bolt loose....and in one case lost! /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

Got to get me a digital camera /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif...could post one picture that shows all this!!!

Thanks,
Kevin

 

[GlueGuy]

Kevin,

The top link on my Woods mower also swivels (swings actually). However, I've never had it pop a pin. The arc that it swicgs through is where the braces come up in sort of a teepee shape, and there is a lot of clearance. I can't imagine what would cause a snap ring to break off. Perhaps it's just catching (on something) and getting pulled into the open position?

The GlueGuy

 

[spd163]

I've lost the top link pin several times while using my King-Cutter mower as well...it's that darn swivel. First it was allowing the cutter to hit the back tires of my tractor, but taht problem was finally solved. Now, it 'eats' the lynch pin on the top link. Actually, I think it might have cut better that way. The swivel does not seem to do an adequate job at letting the front of the mower deck 'float' over the terrain. It takes a rather abrupt change in height to get it to move at all -- otherwise, it stays wedged all the way down. Anyway, without the top link connected, I set the height by lowering the 3pt to the required level, and the tail wheel took care of the rest. That only worked while mowing a large field though. Not any good for normal bush hog use.
I've considered permanently attaching a bolt through the top link hole on the cutter, and using a heavy piece of chain to replace the top link on the tractor when using the bush hog. This would let the mower float properly while cutting, and still allow me to raise the deck to move around when needed. Anyway, enough for now.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I have had the same problem with my KK, My solution was to use a pin that was to long and put a spacer (piece of pipe or large nut) between the lynch pin and the yoke that swivels that way when it swivels down it hits on the spacer instead of the lynch pin. After loosing 2 pins This solution has worked for many hours!

 

[Knight9]

Sounds like a good idea. Nice to know that I'm not the only one who was loosing pins with the KK!!!!

Thanks,
Kevin

 

[beenthere]

A practice I have gone to is using bolts (with lock nuts) in place of the lynch pins, especially with a rotary brush cutter. My experience and from stories (horror stories) that I've heard, is that brush (or your problem/experience) will cause the loss of the pins, and then the damage can occur as a result. The worst was losing the pin in the lift arm at the tractor end, causing the twisting and breaking of the opposite casting (BIG $$$$). Seems that brush has a way of quickly finding the lynch pins, removing them, and causing the loss of the pin it is holding. Removing the lock nut and bolt is a little time consuming, but better than a breakdown in the thick brush on the back forty (when the pin came out of the connector between the rock shaft arm and the lift arm meaning the rig couldn't be moved until the parts were replaced). And just finding the lost parts on a weekend when the dealer is closed, causing a visit to the rental place to get a metal detector for a half day (found it in 5 minutes), is more time consuming.