Busted Transmission Shifter Fork

[Cinco]

Raising a thread back from the dead, I know, but I just wanted to say this was the best informative bit of info I read on the topic after several searches.

Just broke mine off as well, I am very relieved to hear I can repair it without splitting the whole tractor open. As long as I did not bust anything driving it the short distance home, I should be alright.

I tried calling the place in TX, but I guess they dont work Saturdays any more like he was saying! JMparts.com lists the part as 304.37s.121 but then says there are two versions, I will try and pul mine off and see if I can figure out what exactly I need. Looking into the gearbox I was sure I had cracked off a side flange or something, all the other forks line up into grooves. This is an odd looking piece from the photos, with 2 parts that hang down over the gear.

Thanks and have a great spring!

 

[Affordable]

Oh yes we work Saturdays until 1pm Central time.I know which one you need it has the brace on it,we also have a online parts store where you can order 24 hours a day

The correct part number is 304.37S.121 ,the fork without the brace has the same part number without the S.

If you want to order online go to the website,parts center and at the top will be a search box type in Fork you will see it come up,put it in the cart and it will be on it's way to you Monday

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[Cinco]

Wellllll, its a little more complicated than I thought. I did try calling saturday but no answer. For the best anyway, I'm gonna need a "few" more parts. Seems I took out pretty much every gear in there. Have to get it apart to fully figure out what is needed. I don't know if I will be able to do it myself or not now. I do not have a crane or lift to hold the 2 halves up if I split it. I am thinking of some big wooden blocks under the back half, then maybe some blocks with wheels that I can roll away under the front. I have a big enough cement floor barn, I will have to clean it (thats a chore in itself) in order to have room in there to work. I was going to look and see if there is a way just to order everything all at once, or order each piece as I figure out what is needed. Sometimes a complete "kit" is easier/cheaper when ordering parts.

I have the website book marked, when I get ready to order I'll give it a whirl.

I went round to some local farmer guys and asked around who can do the job. Seems everyone is gearing up to start farming, and no one wants to take on a new job. One guy was the head mechanic for a big farm outfit and came highly recommended, the farm, a commercial operation, shut down last month. He said if I had called last week he would ave taken the job, instead he just got hired on a factory. The least recommended guy said he would take the job, but wants $70 an hour, and I was kinda told if I use him I might not see my tractor back til christmas...

I'm going to do some searching and see if anyone else has posted about their experience with trying to do it themselves, maybe come up with some ideas on how to support the halves. Not teh way I wanted to start out spring!

 

[3RRL]

You can split the tractor yourself, but it is a big job.
There are lots of fuel, oil, hydraulic, mechanical and electrical connections to remove so the two halves can split. It's best to have someone help pushing or pulling the two halves apart, and back together again. I have split my tractor 2 times with the help of my wife. Here are a couple of threads with photos that may be of value to you.

Starting on post #162 in this thread
Engine Overhaul Kama 554

and more detailed in this thread Clutch Repair Kama 554

 

[Cinco]

Thanks, mine will be different somewhat than yours, I will split between the front of the gearbox and the bell housing, so a lot less stuff to disconnect. I have the two hydro lines that run to the tank on the rear. I would love to see a write up or pics of the split that way, and pics of the front of the gear box. Someone told me there should be a plate and "window" to work through, someone else said just holes with everything held in place with circlips.

So after reading your report, I have to ask, do you still set the throttle with the hand lock and just "run" it, or do you use the gas peddle to bring the RPMs down when engaging gears?

 

[3RRL]

Thanks, mine will be different somewhat than yours, I will split between the front of the gearbox and the bell housing, so a lot less stuff to disconnect. I have the two hydro lines that run to the tank on the rear. I would love to see a write up or pics of the split that way, and pics of the front of the gear box. Someone told me there should be a plate and "window" to work through, someone else said just holes with everything held in place with circlips.

So after reading your report, I have to ask, do you still set the throttle with the hand lock and just "run" it, or do you use the gas peddle to bring the RPMs down when engaging gears?

Pretty much I set the hand throttle and rarely use the foot pedal.
That doesn't I don't vary the rpm of the hand throttle though. I usually run the tractor at (between) 1500rpm for light work and 1800rpm for heavy work. Rarely do I have to push the rpms up to 2300 where maximum horsepower is developed. My peak torque range is around 1670/1700 (approx), and to me, that is the most important power to have. When the tractor bogs down at the 1800rpm range, it drifts back into the peak torque range which surges the tractor back to 1800rpm. I save on fuel consumption as well.

One thing I do is make sure the tractor is completely stopped before shifting forward to reverse, or visa-versa to avoid gear grinding. The engine rpms don't need to be lowered that way. "Feel" the shift lever into it's spot to avoid grinding. I've learned to up shift through the gears but occasionally, I still grind a gear that way. Down shifting... even with double clutching still doesn't work for me though. But up shifting yes. I guess the best thing to do until you get used to it is to start in whatever gear you plan to work in. Mine will start in 8th gear forward or reverse if I want.