Buying A Blade; HELP

[JDGreenGrass]

My tractor is 54" wide at the rear tires. 24hp JD770.

Should I buy a 5' blade for pushing snow or a 6' blade.??

I am thinking a 6 footer, I just don't want to make the mistake of buying a blade that is too big for the tractor. In other words....I want it to move snow efficiently.

Thanks.

 

[GE222]

Either blade will work most of the time, although when the 5" unit is angled, it might not be as wide as the tractor. On the other hand, with a heavy wet deep snow, a 6' unit might be too much.

I don't recall if your JD is 2wd, or 4wd. Tractors like anything, when pushed too hard will shorten their life. I would tend to go with the 5 footer. Also, with the wide blade, more weight will be required for traction.

A word of advice when adding weight, a little bit of slippage is always good, no matter how big the tractor.

Even the large John Deere 8530 that I drive on the farm which has duals front and back with 275 Hp has some slippage.

 

[JDGreenGrass]

I am thinking the 5' blade.

Partly because I want to stay away from chains, if I can.

Although, I have read elsewhere to go with the 6' because you can use less of the blade to "carry" a lighter load.

Hmmm.??

 

[studor]

For snow I'd be looking at the 6' -- it is not that heavy and you want to be able to angle the blade and throw the snow -- JMHO

 

[zzvyb6]

If your tractor's tires and weight combination is appropriate, AND the snow depth is under 12" lets say, you can easily handle a 7-1/2' blade angled at 30 degrees. I have a 1070, mechanical 4wd, ag tires, loaded rears and can push snow off my dirt road in high gear (9th). To me, the optimum blade length is one in which a down and back pass on the driveway is the full width of the roadway. Plowing doesn't really take that much power. It takes quite a bit of tractive effort, though, however you arrive at it. You can go too slow, also. In that case, snow/slush friction can become a problem getting going. This includes the possibility that you have a gravel driveway in which case, catching some gravel makes life more difficult. Once the plow is churning though, you can get some speed up. It also depends on how good you can steer it. If you have a loader mounted plow stuck way out beyond the front wheels, maintaining steering control at high angle and high speed can get you into trouble. Yes, some people go slower than Gramps leaving the bathroom when plowing. That's all they can figure doing.

You might also consider where your rig will be parked. Getting through a door and parking your machine in a manner to not interfere with all the other garage activities can be an issue. Some folks believe in tire chains, too. But, I mounted my truck plow as close to the front wheels as I could get it. Believe me, snowflakes fear my name....

 

[JDGreenGrass]

Definately the 6 footer.

I'm gonna have fun this winter.

Love this tractor thing. Got the bug.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

After the first pass, you don't have to take another full bite pass. So at worst case you only have to struggle for your first pass. With the 6' blade at 45 degrees, you will only just cover your tracks.

 

[RalphVa]

Your blade may be at about a 30 degree angle; so, a 6' blade will be 1.732/2 x 6 = 5.2' across the width of your tractor. It'll only be wider than your wheels when it isn't at an angle. Most times, you'll have it at an angle.

Ralph

 

[JDGreenGrass]

Your blade may be at about a 30 degree angle; so, a 6' blade will be 1.732/2 x 6 = 5.2' across the width of your tractor. It'll only be wider than your wheels when it isn't at an angle. Most times, you'll have it at an angle.

Ralph[/QUOTE]



6' footer seems just about right. My tractor is 54"s wide at the track so, @30degrees the blade will be 6+ inches wider than my track.

 

[Deadman]

As far as I am concerned, you can never have a plow thats too wide. you Can never take a full swipe anyway, so get the 6 foot for sure. Otherwise there will be trails of snow that dribbled off the edges, and you'll have to go back over it to clean that up, NOT fun!

 

[JDGreenGrass]

Thanks everyone.

Can the blade spin 360 degrees while it's attached to the tractor.?? Or does it need to come off to "switch" the direction of the blade.??

Going to Tractor Supply tomorrow if this hard rain ever stops here in Maine.

 

[Joanna]

Who out there has a snow plow blade w/out hydraulics to turn it right and left? I am looking at the FFC 1400 series plow and wonder if it is too much of a PITA to move it manually. I do not have front hydraulics now because of cost.

Thanks

 

[beenthere]

Thanks everyone.

Can the blade spin 360 degrees while it's attached to the tractor.?? Or does it need to come off to "switch" the direction of the blade.??

Going to Tractor Supply tomorrow if this hard rain ever stops here in Maine.

I read all the threads, and finally this one indicates you are talking about a blade on the 3 ph, and not on the front of the tractor.

I've a 7' on the front end, and don't think that is any too wide for plowing snow. I'm about the same width on the tires as your 54".

Pushing a rear blade backwards is hard on things as you don't have any spring action to absorb the "shock". Easy to bend parts.

Depends on the 3 ph blade, if it can spin 360 degrees, as well as how the top arm is adjusted.

Good luck with your plan for snow.

 

[beenthere]

Who out there has a snow plow blade w/out hydraulics to turn it right and left? I am looking at the FFC 1400 series plow and wonder if it is too much of a PITA to move it manually. I do not have front hydraulics now because of cost.

Thanks

Yes, you can get manually adjusted plows for pushing snow. Most likely have a quadrant where a pin can be dropped in to fix the angle in prolly 5 positions, including straight.
Not sure about the FFC 1400 series.

 

[CowwFace]

Just a thought,

Has anyone tried using an electric actuator or two on a snowblade up front to piviot it? Would they be strong enough to hold it once angled?

Phill

 

[Ford850]

Who out there has a snow plow blade w/out hydraulics to turn it right and left? I am looking at the FFC 1400 series plow and wonder if it is too much of a PITA to move it manually. I do not have front hydraulics now because of cost.

Thanks

I had an old blade that had to me manually adjusted similar to a rear blade. It wasn't too bad, but the pin is usually down low on the frame so it does get snow packed at times. I have a long drive so I only had to flop it after traveling the length of the drive. Overall it probably added only a few minutes to my plowing.
I have a new blade now with hydrualic angle adjustment, running from my rear hydraulics using long hoses. I end up changing angles all the time now, doing a better job clearing snow.