Buying a John Deere fel.....finally

[RollingsFarms]

I have kicked myself from the first day of owning my 5203 that I didn't opt for the fel. I knew I would eventually get it so the joystick and all the hydraulics are in place, all I need to buy is the fel. I think since the 522 fel is no more there's a new model of fel for these tractors and was curious if the fel for a 5055d or 5055e would also fit on a 5203? Which bucket should I get? Would a toothbar be worth it, should I buy my own and take it to the dealership for them to put on or just buy the one from Deere? Where are you guys buying your hooks from that you weld on the top of the bucket? I have 14.9x28 tires on my tractor now(loaded with one set of wheel weights), should I keep those or swap for 16.9x28's? Won't need a grapple or anything, but is there any other "must have's" I should mull over as far as a fel is concerned?

 

[murphy1244]

Toothbar yes, 3 hooks welded on top. One center one on each side where the arm is. The rest must be told by a deer owner.

 

[YesDeere]

If you don't want to put it on, I'd say go Deere.

 

[RollingsFarms]

Toothbar yes, 3 hooks welded on top. One center one on each side where the arm is. The rest must be told by a deer owner.

this maybe a dumb question, but aren't there several different kinds? aren't there one with "teeth" and one that is "smooth"? I have seen pics of TBN members with hooks welded on top of their buckets and I think I would get some use out of that as well.

 

[RollingsFarms]

If you don't want to put it on, I'd say go Deere.

I was thinking the same thing, also my dealer might be willing to cut me a deal for buying it all in a package from them.

 

[eagle107]

I was thinking the same thing, also my dealer might be willing to cut me a deal for buying it all in a package from them.

If you buy the FEL from the JD dealer, just tell him or her you want the hooks weld or bolted on. The dealer will do it for free usually. I am getting a new 4520 with a 400CX loader and my JD dealer is putting the hooks on for free. My NH dealer also did it that on my 250TL loader for free - I usually get two hooks, one on each side of the bucket.

If you weld the hooks on yourself, make sure you take the bucket off the loader or disconnect the battery first. Many tractors come with a computer processing unit (CPU) these days (not sure if yours does, but better safe than sorry) and if things are not properly grounded you will fry your CPU when welding the hooks on. My dealer just had a guy's tractor in for that issue and it cost him $500 to $800 to replace the CPU - without the CPU, the tractor would not start.

 

[B58Hustler]

In reference to changing tire sizes the following is from my Goodyear Farm tire handbook. At 75% solution fill (in this case cal.chloride) the 14.9s will give you a loaded weight of 545 lbs. per tire. The 16.9s will give you a loaded weight of 699 lbs. per tire. That will mean about 310 lbs more for the pair.

The problem you may have is that using 16.9s might mean going to larger front tires as well. For example when I ordered my 5200 with the 16.9s the configurator program also made a change up to 9.5-24 fronts. If you already have some cast weight I would not waste my money. But make sure you have always have a ballast box or 3pt attachment weighing over 500lbs when using the loader.

In my 540 loader manual Deere noted that you could switch the front tires left to right to get the "point" of the chevron tread pattern pointing backwards. This would give more traction when backing out of a manure, silage, dirt etc. pile. (Note I never changed them because most of my loads were crushed stone, sand, processed gravel and some top soil) But I could see a benefit if a lot of work was done in 'greasy' stuff.

Get the toothbar! Your imagination will be the only limit to its use.

 

[Zebrafive]

Go to John Deeres website and use "build your own" for a loader. You will be able to see if they offer mounts for your tractor. I'll bet they do. New loaders are usually avaliable with mounts for several models back.

I would get a 73" bucket, thats 1850mm.
Consider a Skid Steer carrier if avaliable.

If you ever plan on a grapple order the 3rd function oil line bundle.

Check the "ATTACHMENT" section of these forums. There are post on Rachet Rakes that TSC are closing out regular $359 for a 72" model now $199 if you can find one. You might want this instead of a tooth bar.

 

[AKfish]

Congrats, RollingsFarms. I can see a new "avatar" coming along soon, too! I'd bet that the newer 553 would be a good fit for your 5203.

The 3rd function SCV on the loader for a grapple would also be a very good thing to invest in as well - IMO. You'll really wonder how you EVER got along without a loader and grapple, before!

If you don't currently have a 3rd SCV - the rear kit for up to 2 additional SCV's should be available at your dealer. (They'll be very happy to talk with you about those as well...).

New tires.. How many hours do you have on your tractor right now? I ask because if the tires and rims are not too worn - you might be able to recover a big chunk of the likely $4K-$5K it's likely to cost! Another part of that upgrade would be to ask yourself if you're happy with the performance of your current tire combo for other farm work; i.e. disc harrowing, etc. If the answer is no - well, go for it!

Lookin' forward to your pics!

AKfish

 

[Bullseye]

I can help with installation.

I just put a 553 loader on a 5210 myself. John Deere's website shows that this is the new loader that would fit yours with the same brackets the 5210 took. My tractor like yours already had the joystick, valves and hookups.

The FEl will come on a skid with the loader standing on end with the attachment end of the arms sticking up in the air with the brackets on the skid and the bucket on the skid depending on the bucket. I got mine with a skid steer attachment so my bucket was on a seperate skid. I put in on a trailer and hauled it home like that.

The brackets weighed 180 lbs each. I used an engine lift and straps to orient the brackets and then rolled them into position. There are 7 bolts that hold each bracket on. This took about an hour.

Then we took a tractor with a FEL, ran a strap through the front tube and put over the forks, unbolted from the skid and lowered it to the ground. Then we put the forks over the arms and put a strap on each side and raised the loader arms on the end where it attaches to the tractor. Drove the 5210 between the arms and put the pins in. Then you put the skid steer attachment on the arms which is just pins and cotter pins.

Hook the hoses up.

This took 4 hours or less to complete. Dealer wanted $400 plus I had to get my tractor there. It is really easy to do yourself if you have the equipment (FEL, ceiling hoist) or something to get the thing off the skid. Also need a FEL to unload the thing from the trailer. For me it was easier than getting my tractor to the dealer and back.