BX 2000 Shed Update

[woodstock]

This is a continuation of an old thread,
http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=owning&Number=52540&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5
<font color=blue>[/b]Woodstock,
Every time I have poured concrete I have underbuilt the forms. I'm sure your not finished on yours yet soo.. could you post the pictures when you are done?
Al
</font color=blue>[/b]
Al,
the forms are pretty staight forward, but I know what you mean, been there done that too.

I've used 2X6s staked every three feet with three foot 1X3.

The rebar is 10 mm and is 18" on centre.
It will be blocked up to keep it in the upper 1/3 of the pour which will be 5 " in the main area and 12 inches around the perimeter.

I expect to use 11 yards of concrete at a cost of $85.00 per yd.
The cost to date breaks down as follows.
Wood for form material $36.00
Steel for concrete $197.84
Steel building delivery $2,969.00
Concrete $935.00
I still need an overhead 9X8 door

Winnipeg, Manitoba

2001 BX2200 (23 hrs) All Kubota FEL,Tiller, box blade, blower w/elec shute, 60 mid mt deck, Ag tires.
Grey market B7000 w/Tiller (120 hrs)

 

[treeboone]

It looks like you are well on your way to having a nice building. You won't regret the concrete floor. One lesson I learned the hard way was having trees too close to the building. They have a habit of continuing to grow. They also have a couple other major drawbacks (dont misunderstand, I love living in the timber) If the tree falls, it can go onto the building, or if it falls away, the root ball can damage the foundation. If it grows, the roots will lift the foundation. If it dies, insects infest the stump and have a direct channel under your foundation, and any wood structure attached. Fire is not something that needs to be discussed if you have lived in timber long. I like to keep a cleared area around the building that is possible to keep cut with the tractor If a tree is too close to the building to easily access with a tractor or mower, brush will grow there. Limbs and debris from trees accumilate on the roof. To make a long story short, it is wise to remove them before the building is erected, because sooner or later they will come out anyway.

 

[woodstock]

Well is stopped raining just long enough to pour the concrete floor, 9 yards of 3500 psi.
It started raining again but we had time to power trowel the shop floor to a near hi-gloss finish. That was the first time I used a power trowel and I am extremely happy with the results.
The 10 foot approach ramp was troweled smooth and finished by dragging a broom to provide good traction for the 1/12 slope.
If it stops raining tomorow I will remove the plastic tarp and take a picture.

Winnipeg, Manitoba

2001 BX2200 (23 hrs) All Kubota FEL,Tiller, box blade, blower w/elec shute, 60 mid mt deck, Ag tires.
Grey market B7000 w/Tiller (120 hrs)

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Woodstock,
I'm a little behind you in the same process. I'm just now looking at the prices of
steel buildings. Would you be amenable to posting your building source? Are those Canadian
dollars? I assume so, unless concrete here in the middle of Missouri is quite a bit
cheaper than there.

 

[woodstock]

Chuck
Yes those are Canadian dollars and all taxes included (14%) to convert multiply by 0.64

My building is from Pioneer Steel.
http://www.pioneersteel.com/home-1.html

The pad is curing, the steel is being manufactured and the 9X8 overhead door is on order.
I hope to start errecting the firstb week iin September.

In the mean time I'm replacing a rotting 22 year old 16X24 deck.

Boy I'll be glad when winter comes and I can hibernate again.
Wood for form material $36.00
Steel for concrete $197.84
Steel building delivery $3,500.00
Concrete $935.00 only need 9 yards $756
Overhead 9X8 door $397.00
Steel building price went up due to 3 more feet and one skylight.

Winnipeg, Manitoba

2001 BX2200 (26 hrs)
<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by woodstock on 08/13/01 07:20 PM (server time).</FONT></P>

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Looks like an excellent building. Just a word of advice. The metal on your building will expand and contract with the weather. Believe me on this one. Make sure you put expansion joints between the concrete and the metal IF there are areas where they touch. In your case, it appears you are putting the building on top of the concrete (or around) so you probably don't have to much too worry about. I had a building built and THEN poured the concrete in/around it. (I wanted a "sidewalk" around the building to keep the rain from splashing mud on the building.) I didn't put in expansion joints but rather poured the concrete around/under the walls of the building which "trapped" the metal walls. Now, when it is hot out, the walls try to expand which creates ripples in the walls of the building. It is noticeable, but not so much that I am going to tear up the concrete and start over :~>. I talked to the dealer who installed the buiding and he swears they informed me of this. I must be getting old. Anyway, he also told me they use a flexible asphalt type caulk when they install buildings around concrete pads. This helps keep the critters from crawling in through the space that will be left between your pad and the walls when the metal contracts or expands. Just some helpful (I hope) hints.

Good luck,

greg

 

[woodstock]

Greg, I appreciate the info.
The pad I poured is flat. The building sits in a U channel which gets bolted to the concrete.
I wasn't considering sealing the channel to the pad. My thoughts on this were that it might trap water under the cahnnel and encourage corrosion. The pad will stick out 1.5 inches on each side and the back. The front concrete approach has a 1/12 pitch.
I had not thought about the rodent issue.
What could be paced to seal out rodenta buut allow any water to escape from under the building perimeter?

I expect the building to arrive the first week in September.
Hopefully we will have had our first frost and it kills some of the dam mosquitoes that are horrible this year.

Winnipeg, Manitoba

2001 BX2200 (30 hrs)

 

[woodstock]

At long last home sweet kubota home

I can post construction pics if anyone is interested.

Winnipeg, Manitoba

2001 BX2200 (30 hrs)
<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by woodstock on 10/20/01 08:26 PM (server time).</FONT></P>

 

[ronjhall]

Woodstock
Nice building./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Please post some construction pics. It looks a lot bigger than your original 16' X 24'. Does your BX and all of its attachments fit inside?/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[woodstock]

I think it lo oks bigger than 16X24 because it is 11 feet high and I have an 8 foot overhead door.
Yes every thing fits including the Dakota Quad cab.
With all my implements on dollies it is a sinch to slide everything in place.
You can also see the mez I put in at the back. It is 14.5 feet by 5 feet. Therre is another 30 inch full width at 40 inches off the ground.

On the right side are cube shelves 2 feet deep 4 feet high for 16 feet.

I am going to leave the left side open.

Winnipeg, Manitoba

2001 BX2200 (30 hrs)
<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by woodstock on 10/21/01 07:25 PM (server time).</FONT></P>