BX 2200 Hydraulic control lever
- Thread starter tbennett
- Start date
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Will_C
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2002
- Messages
- 1,778
- Location
- Upstate N.Y.
- Tractor
- Kubota L3560, Toro 52" and 60" ZTRs, Kubota RTV 900
The lever won't return unless your three point hitch is all the way up or down. The MMM will not lower all the way, hence the lever will stay down. If the mower lift linkage is correct, it should return on raising.
Will
Will
Charliebrn
Platinum Member
There is an adjustment on the rod, with double nuts making the setting as to when it returns the lever. It's under the seat on the right side of the tractor. The manual tells you how to make the adjustment. One side of the rod has two lock nuts and a spring that returns from lift, and the other is set up the same way, but returns from drop. I backed off the drop side all the way, so I can use the 3pt as a sort of "float", but on max lift, it returns the lever for me. Make sure and keep the rod greased though, or it'll return the lever early when it gets dirty.
Scaper
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2001
- Messages
- 193
- Tractor
- New Holland 1030
Took mine to the dealer and he removed the plastic sleeve on the lever arm. He said that was the best way to solve the problem as far as Kubota stated to him. Works like a charm now. Mark /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
BIGUN
Gold Member
I had the problem of my lift control lever not returning to neutral automatically with my BX 1500 from the day it was delivered.
The man from my dealer who delivered my Kubota told me, “On these little tractors you have to return the lift lever to neutral manually or it will keep a load on your engine with the hydraulic pump”. He was about 60ish and appeared to me to be an old sage in the operation of tractors so I took his word for it. Problem is the owners manual stated that it should return to neutral automatically, so I called my dealer and talked to their “head” mechanic. He said he thought the manual covered all the BX models and the 1500 didn’t have that feature. WRONG, it does! After investigating the problem myself I discovered that the lift control lever was not centered in the slot on the plastic lever guide located on the right fender and was dragging on one side. It didn’t feel like much resistance but the automatic return is designed to where it doesn’t have much leverage and that is all it takes to keep it from working.
I fixed the problem by removing the right rear wheel, then removing the screws that hold the plastic lever guide to the fender and placing a large Crescent wrench on the flat lever below to first bend, to prevent putting any strain on the lever shaft, and bending the lever by hand just a little so that it is centered in the lever guide slot. Then replaced the screws that hold the plastic lever guide to the fender. It has worked perfectly ever since. I believe the lever was bent, or not bent properly, when it was installed at the factory as I don’t believe it could be moved enough to bend it while in the plastic lever guide slot without breaking it.
This is kind of long but I hope this helps anyone with a similar problem.
The man from my dealer who delivered my Kubota told me, “On these little tractors you have to return the lift lever to neutral manually or it will keep a load on your engine with the hydraulic pump”. He was about 60ish and appeared to me to be an old sage in the operation of tractors so I took his word for it. Problem is the owners manual stated that it should return to neutral automatically, so I called my dealer and talked to their “head” mechanic. He said he thought the manual covered all the BX models and the 1500 didn’t have that feature. WRONG, it does! After investigating the problem myself I discovered that the lift control lever was not centered in the slot on the plastic lever guide located on the right fender and was dragging on one side. It didn’t feel like much resistance but the automatic return is designed to where it doesn’t have much leverage and that is all it takes to keep it from working.
I fixed the problem by removing the right rear wheel, then removing the screws that hold the plastic lever guide to the fender and placing a large Crescent wrench on the flat lever below to first bend, to prevent putting any strain on the lever shaft, and bending the lever by hand just a little so that it is centered in the lever guide slot. Then replaced the screws that hold the plastic lever guide to the fender. It has worked perfectly ever since. I believe the lever was bent, or not bent properly, when it was installed at the factory as I don’t believe it could be moved enough to bend it while in the plastic lever guide slot without breaking it.
This is kind of long but I hope this helps anyone with a similar problem.