BX grunts hard

   / BX grunts hard #1  

scotty088

Bronze Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2009
Messages
55
Location
Warren,Oregon
Tractor
Kubota BX 2230
I have a BX2230 I run a 48" King Kutter roto tiller,MMM,48"Woods Brush hog all these attachments work perfectly with my machine all day long.However when I use my sons 48"box scraper in low gear in 4X4 in it really seems to really tax my tractor.I'm assuming in a situation like this it causes undo strain on the hydro unit.Is this box scraper too much for my little tractor?I certainly would not like any pricey repair bills.What are your thoughts?I appreciate the knowledge and experience found on this forum.Thanks for all your help.
Scotty
 
   / BX grunts hard #2  
What model box scraper? For example both Woods and Land Pride make two different sized 48" box scrapers. One sized for SCUTs and another taller, heavier one sized for CUTs. The smaller ones work best with SCUTs. If you have a larger one I would try not to let it fill to the brim every time. I have a smaller 48" with my scut and I can have that one totally full and still manage it. I would not want to try to pull a larger 48" all filled up with my scut. It would struggle with a bigger box than the woods SCUT model I have.
 
   / BX grunts hard #3  
The Box Scraper, when digging deep and filling with dirt is very taxing. The other implements you mention are better fitted to your machine. Just because people recommend a 48" so your wheel tracks are covered doesn't mean it going to be easy to use. They are heavy, as they need to be. Fill it with dirt, or have knives down deep and it is almost the equal to trying to pull a two bottom plow.

Either take smaller bites, or consider an XB version of the box blade. These aren't prohibitively expensive to do some horse trading and get what might work a little easier. Best regards,

http://www.tractorsupply.com/agricu...ipment/countyline-reg-box-blade-4-ft--2415099
 
   / BX grunts hard #4  
I have the kk48"bx and it will stop my tractor dead with wheels spinning
A lot has to do with the top link length and how soothe you are with the three point lever you cant just drop it and run it takes a lot of finesse to get it to soothe any thing in my opinion I' not great at it but I can get the job done.

tom
 
   / BX grunts hard #5  
I have a Worksaver SBX5 which is a 60" BB that weighs 376 lbs. I have in the past set the scarifiers where it has filled with dirt while digging in and will catch a shallow tree root causing all four wheels (3) to spin in the dirt. I guess I suppose one will term that taxing, although, in my case, the Bota just sat there with wheels spinning. Certainly it cannot handle the weight to weight ratio but, I must say, it still didn't appear to be taxed.:thumbsup:
 
   / BX grunts hard #6  
Worked with a 48" bush hog and found that it was a tough pull!! Certainly couldn't do to much but found with filling the loader bucket did help but other wise about 1/2 full was about it.
 
   / BX grunts hard
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I guess what I'm wondering is will the excess strain of this implement cause undo heat and strain on my hydrostatic unit causing damage to it.My little tractor has to last me several more years.If the box scraper will damage the unit I will borrow my sons J.D. to finish my scraping duties.Thanks for the awesome feedback folks
Scotty
 
   / BX grunts hard #8  
Back off of the depth, that will release some of the strain..May take longer.
 
   / BX grunts hard #9  
I guess what I'm wondering is will the excess strain of this implement cause undo heat and strain on my hydrostatic unit causing damage to it.My little tractor has to last me several more years.If the box scraper will damage the unit I will borrow my sons J.D. to finish my scraping duties.Thanks for the awesome feedback folks
Scotty

Hi Scotty. I want to give you general considerations about the tranny, since your concern was about longevity.

You want to use it instead of the JD, but you don't want to hurt it. I will tell you things you already know, but having it grouped in one place may ease your mind. What I write below will be overkill for your question, but with summer coming on, and so many BX's on the board, maybe it will help someone.

In the following, the term "stall" means moving the foot treadle to go, but the tractor stops moving, or moves much slower than it should. I am not referring to the engine. When I talk about "heat", I am talking about heat generation the operator can influence, not all sources of heat.

What cools the tranny is the cooling fan, and heat radiating from the entire tranny casing. So, make sure the tranny is generally clean since dirt, film, dust, etc. can act as a thin insulating blanket, keeping heat in.

Periodically, it is a good idea to blow the tranny off with compressed air, and particularly, use strong blasts of air to the housing behind tranny cooling fan to get rid of the crud that seems to accumulate there over time. I try to keep all traces of oil off my tranny housing because grass and dust will collect there, and can become quite thick.

Keep the rpms high so the fan will deliver plenty of air to the pump/motor set. High rpms will not generate as much heat as it will liberate because the priority valve goes ahead and grabs it's share of the flow even at low rpms. Therefore we don't have to worry about the priority oil flow reliefs causing more heat at higher rpms per se so long as you don't turn your steering to the extreme left or right, therefore challenging the steering relief valve (and creating heat.)

The higher rpms will only increase flow to the lift and loader, which will dump the flow to tank without heating it much.

If you are using the lift or the loader, don't stall it at the end of stroke, or against loads (which will challenge the main relief, creating heat.)

What heats the tranny (beyond internal leakage) is any relief valve being challenged. The only reliefs you are possibly challenging with the box blade (if not the lift) are the reliefs for the hydro set immediately behind the fan.

If you are in low range, and your rpms are high, you are not likely to challenge them much. A good idea is to stall the tractor a time or two in the beginning to see which of the following are true: A) The wheels spin. B)the wheels do not spin.

If A) you have no real worries. You are not generating excessive heat with that setup. It is to be desired not to spin the wheels much though, because this is wasteful (wastes rubber, and does less useful work than could otherwise be accomplished if you kept things below the edge of spinning.)

If B)you will generate heat above normal each time you stall, so find a better/easier way. Just take it easier, and don't stall the wheels.

Your treadle determines how much oil the hydro set pumps(for a given rpm.) The relief pressure will determine how hard your wheels can pull. Stalling a tractor at a low foot treadle position generates less heat than stalling it at a high treadle position. The reason is:

flow x pressure = power. Pressure is set by the reliefs. This is presumed not to change. Flow is in proportion to treadle position. If we lock the wheels down, the power goes out the relief, and doing no honest work, it is transformed to heat. Low flow at a fixed pressure is less heat than high flow at that same pressure.
 
   / BX grunts hard #10  
Wow, OUTSTANDING post by EE Bota there. :thumbsup:

All that being said, don't worry too much about an occasional stall, just adjust your box angle or tine depth and keep blading. I haul a WAY oversized box blade (5' Armstrong AgMaster) on a BX over rocky soil. I have hit so many rocks/roots it makes my head spin. Have gotten quite good at fishing big boulders out with the BB tines. I let the machine rest when i'm tired. It gets plenty hot here too (105 in summer).

I have bent my upper link, but other than that, no damage to the machine. Pushing 800 hours now and it still purrs like new. Actually, it whines and howls just like new. :D
 

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