I just purchased a BX 2200 after much agony. I toyed with the idea of a B7500. I just could not justify the extra cost for basically more ground clearance. I will mostly mow and am very impressed with the performance after only an hour. However the bx appears to have difficulty with traction when using the FEL. Will this improve with a rear 3PT implement attached? Do most of you use your FEL w/o the MMM attached? Should you box scrape to break up the soil before diging? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. It appears to me as an incredible novice that the FEL has plenty of power, tractionis the issue.
bx2200
- Thread starter nwjohn
- Start date
- Views: 953
-
- Tags
- kubota bx2200
pemad
Silver Member
NWJohn,
Congrats on your BX2200. I have a BX2200 with turfs on it and I just finished putting in a 400+ foot driveway and did not have much problem with traction. My problem was the tractor could only dig a little at a time because it lacked the power to dig up the ground. I attached a picture of my driveway I cut out with the tractor.
I do not have a MMM so I can not answer your other question. Good luck with your tractor.
pemad
Congrats on your BX2200. I have a BX2200 with turfs on it and I just finished putting in a 400+ foot driveway and did not have much problem with traction. My problem was the tractor could only dig a little at a time because it lacked the power to dig up the ground. I attached a picture of my driveway I cut out with the tractor.
I do not have a MMM so I can not answer your other question. Good luck with your tractor.
pemad
Attachments
powershop
Bronze Member
I use wheel weights and rear grader box and no MMM when doing FEL work. Tooth bar will help you dig. Lower rear tire pressure for more traction. Remember it is not a bull dozer only a 1500 pound CUT.
NY_Yankees_Fan
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2002
- Messages
- 2,206
- Tractor
- Kubota BX 2200
NWJohn,
It depends on what type of work I am doing with the FEL if I keep the MMM on, and locked in the "Top" position. If I am moving mulch or spreading soil and I have no problem with ground clearance and not in tight spots I leave it on. If I am going to do some real work, I take it off. You will find if you put weight on the 3 pt either via a weight box or tiller or what ever, you will have better traction but MUCH more important, it will be safer to operate when moving from point A to B with a load. Either way, keep the load down low and do not make sharp turns and ALWAYS wear the seat belt, it will keep you in the tractor if it rolls. Even on flat ground with the load too high and a quick turn, it will go over. I had one close call so I can tell you it CAN happen!.
If you are going to do any serious soil removal, get a tooth bar, got one a few weeks ago from Carver for $289 delivered, and boy what a difference. You can do some real moving of soil with it. I found if I dragged the FEL backwards with the teeth digging in I could loosen the soil and then go forward to remove it. Low gear works a lot better then high when pushing or pulling with he FEL. Remember for real serious soil removal a back hoe it what you really need. The FEL is not meant for serious digging past a few inches.
I went through the same as you did, 7500 or BX, at the end of the day after reading all the great posts on TBN, I went with the BX since 90% of what I do is grass cutting. But I must admit sometimes that 7500 would have been nice too!
Enjoy and have fun and be safe.!
Tom
It depends on what type of work I am doing with the FEL if I keep the MMM on, and locked in the "Top" position. If I am moving mulch or spreading soil and I have no problem with ground clearance and not in tight spots I leave it on. If I am going to do some real work, I take it off. You will find if you put weight on the 3 pt either via a weight box or tiller or what ever, you will have better traction but MUCH more important, it will be safer to operate when moving from point A to B with a load. Either way, keep the load down low and do not make sharp turns and ALWAYS wear the seat belt, it will keep you in the tractor if it rolls. Even on flat ground with the load too high and a quick turn, it will go over. I had one close call so I can tell you it CAN happen!.
If you are going to do any serious soil removal, get a tooth bar, got one a few weeks ago from Carver for $289 delivered, and boy what a difference. You can do some real moving of soil with it. I found if I dragged the FEL backwards with the teeth digging in I could loosen the soil and then go forward to remove it. Low gear works a lot better then high when pushing or pulling with he FEL. Remember for real serious soil removal a back hoe it what you really need. The FEL is not meant for serious digging past a few inches.
I went through the same as you did, 7500 or BX, at the end of the day after reading all the great posts on TBN, I went with the BX since 90% of what I do is grass cutting. But I must admit sometimes that 7500 would have been nice too!
Enjoy and have fun and be safe.!
Tom
Anonymous Poster
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2005
- Messages
- 29,678
Someone else pretty much summed up the question about using the FEL with the MMM attached....yes, depending on what you are doing and what you are moving.
But to another point...you need to have weight in the back of the machine to help balance the weight you are "loading" in the FEL, pardon the expression. A few hundred pounds minimum is not asking alot. Some folks will use another implement, such as a box blade. Others, like myself, have made simple 3pt weights using barrels/tubs, concrete and an inexpensive drawbar. However you do it, you will immediately notice a difference with handling when you are lifting anything heavier than triple-ground multch!
But to another point...you need to have weight in the back of the machine to help balance the weight you are "loading" in the FEL, pardon the expression. A few hundred pounds minimum is not asking alot. Some folks will use another implement, such as a box blade. Others, like myself, have made simple 3pt weights using barrels/tubs, concrete and an inexpensive drawbar. However you do it, you will immediately notice a difference with handling when you are lifting anything heavier than triple-ground multch!
lpigott
Gold Member
Weight on the rear is the key. Bar tires are much better too, you did not mention what you have. Another thing no one mentioned is filling the rear tires. This is easy to do or your dealer can do it for you. Follow the steps in the owners manual for this.
art
Super Member
The BX is a great tractor but it is not a large tractor and it is important to remember that it can do it just as good as a larger tractor, it will just take a little longer. The rear ballast is important and you should get some of some sort if you are to be digging a lot. Anything you can hang on the three point hitch will help. You getting used to the controls will make a big difference to the smoothness of the operation and how quick you can fill the bucket. You don't need to spin the tires just use the transmission and the loader control to modulate the lift and curl and you will be able to load and go. Patience is often the key.
Kelvin
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2000
- Messages
- 798
- Location
- East Tennessee
- Tractor
- B2910 & BX23 (previously B2150 & B7100D)
<font color=blue>However the bx appears to have difficulty with traction when using the FEL. Will this improve with a rear 3PT implement attached? </font color=blue>
Without weight on the 3-point hitch to counter the load in the FEL the rear of the tractor will get light and rear wheel traction can be reduced to nil, leaving only front wheel traction (hopefully you're using 4wd...). Also, I can't remember if the BX has rear wheel differential lock (I think it does); but if it does, be sure and use that as required for additional traction.
<font color=blue>Do most of you use your FEL w/o the MMM attached? </font color=blue>
As far as the mid-mower goes, typically it gets in the way since the mid-mower is wider than FEL bucket and thus it would be better to remove it. However, if it is not in the way for the FEL job you are doing, I think removal becomes optional. Since the mid-mower weight is attached near the Fore/Aft center of gravity I don't think it makes much difference with regard to countering the FEL load.
<font color=blue>Should you box scrape to break up the soil before diging? </font color=blue>
I would recommend breaking up the soil with the yard box (teeth down) just to minimize the wear & tear on the FEL. It won't make a huge difference on top soil (or other loosely packed soil/material), but it will make a difference on hard packed soil.
Kelvin
Without weight on the 3-point hitch to counter the load in the FEL the rear of the tractor will get light and rear wheel traction can be reduced to nil, leaving only front wheel traction (hopefully you're using 4wd...). Also, I can't remember if the BX has rear wheel differential lock (I think it does); but if it does, be sure and use that as required for additional traction.
<font color=blue>Do most of you use your FEL w/o the MMM attached? </font color=blue>
As far as the mid-mower goes, typically it gets in the way since the mid-mower is wider than FEL bucket and thus it would be better to remove it. However, if it is not in the way for the FEL job you are doing, I think removal becomes optional. Since the mid-mower weight is attached near the Fore/Aft center of gravity I don't think it makes much difference with regard to countering the FEL load.
<font color=blue>Should you box scrape to break up the soil before diging? </font color=blue>
I would recommend breaking up the soil with the yard box (teeth down) just to minimize the wear & tear on the FEL. It won't make a huge difference on top soil (or other loosely packed soil/material), but it will make a difference on hard packed soil.
Kelvin
Hoosier_Daddy
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2002
- Messages
- 632
- Location
- Indiana
- Tractor
- New BX2200 4-3-02 (traded 6-08) new B2620 06-08
My 02 cents. Get a tooth bar. You will be amazed at the difference. Remove the deck if you are cutting in a drive. Don't want to mess up your deck. Attach a box scrapper or just a heavy blade. Tooth Bar makes a big difference but weight on the rear is the key. Also a lot safer since you could flip over if you don't have a level load in the loader. And I'll bet at some time you will realize the pucker factor if the tractor is not on level ground and it starts to tilt with a load in the bucket..... Been there... It's the experience you gain that makes you feel more proud of your work with this amazing little tractor......
