Looking for some confirmation on a starting issue before I shell out the dough for the parts. So I traced the power from the battery through the ignition switch and all the safety switches back to the starter. I found two things, First the ignition switch was not working, when I turned the key to start no power was getting through. I disconnected the ignition switch and jumpered across R to BW wire, Tractor did not start. While still jumpered (after disconnecting starter wire) I followed the wiring through the sensors all the way to the starter which read out 12.35 volts or there abouts, thus in my mind ruling out the sensors as there was power at the starter, plug in starter still nothing. My assumption is the starter is bad and the ignition switch is bad. If there was 12 volts at the starter it should have engaged unless I’m missing something.
BX2230 Starting Issues
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rScotty
Super Member
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- Kubota M59, JD530, JD310SG. Restoring Yanmar YM165D
There can be 12.8 volts at the starter and still not be passibg enough amps to turn the starter. Begin by renewing all the battery cable connections. Test the starter by jumping directly from the + of the battery terminal to the input to the starter with the battery jumper cable - (bypassing the ignition and solenoid). It will rotate immediately, so be sure to have the gears in neutral & be safe.
rScotty
rScotty
To sumarize my current state. Turn key dash lights come on. No sound, no clicks etc heard no start. With key in start position through ignition switch starter gets no voltage. If I by pass ignition with jumper starter gets 12.34 volts but does not do anything. I have replaced ground cable, starter, timer relay, and ignition switch. To no avail. jumped seat safety switch that didn’t seem to help. Besides voltage gets through when bypassing ignition switch. Is it something in another circuit tied to the switch?
RjCorazza
Elite Member
Sure sounds like a high resistance connection somewhere. You removed the battery for testing and the starter has been replaced, so I assume you cleaned up those connections. You replaced the ground cable, so maybe replace the battery cables? I have seen internally corroded battery cables that looked fine upon observation.
Another option to consider is adding a starter relay kit that provides 12 volts to the starting solenoid directly from the battery, rather than through the key switch start wire. The 12.35v you are reading on that wire is not too far out of line, but there is some resistance present.
Another option to consider is adding a starter relay kit that provides 12 volts to the starting solenoid directly from the battery, rather than through the key switch start wire. The 12.35v you are reading on that wire is not too far out of line, but there is some resistance present.
Yeah replaced the battery ground cable but not the red cable. cleaned The terminals. Can’t understand why I have power going in to the ignition switch but not out Of the switch in the start position. Wondering if something in the run Position circuit is off. Fuel solenoid or something along those lines? Looks like I’m gonna need to find some place to service it as I can’t seem to get it figured out.
Thanks for all the help. After 2 weeks finally got it started. Had already called service dept to schedule work, figurrd id change out the positive as I had done the ground so I did that put it all back together to have ready for pickup decided to go ahead and give it a shot, it started right away lights worked everything came to life. Unless it was a fluke the red battery cable was the key.
rScotty
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2001
- Messages
- 9,502
- Location
- Rural mountains - Colorado
- Tractor
- Kubota M59, JD530, JD310SG. Restoring Yanmar YM165D
This has been a good thread. The lesson I see is that when we use an old fashioned wet cell battery on a tractor it can require replacing the post connectors and the battery cables from time to time. Tractors vibrate more than cars, and that seems to cause problems from acid & fumes..
My Kubota came with a wet cell battery - the kind with the caps on top that unscrew for checking water/acid level. Those old wet cells are cheap and keep a good charge but also spit fumes that cause constant maintenance on corrosion to the cables, connectors, and mounts.
After 6 years, my original battery cables corroded apart INSIDE of the insulation about six inches back from where they connected to the battery. Only think I can figure is that the vibration caused acid to creep up inside the cable. I'd never seen that before.
Due to my stubborness, I kept that OEM wet cell battery for 12 years. During that time it needed one set of new cables & repairs to the replacements, two sets of post connectors, annual cleaning, and repairs to the battery box & mounts. Simply changing to an AGM type sealed battery costs more a bit more & avoids all those issues.
rScotty
My Kubota came with a wet cell battery - the kind with the caps on top that unscrew for checking water/acid level. Those old wet cells are cheap and keep a good charge but also spit fumes that cause constant maintenance on corrosion to the cables, connectors, and mounts.
After 6 years, my original battery cables corroded apart INSIDE of the insulation about six inches back from where they connected to the battery. Only think I can figure is that the vibration caused acid to creep up inside the cable. I'd never seen that before.
Due to my stubborness, I kept that OEM wet cell battery for 12 years. During that time it needed one set of new cables & repairs to the replacements, two sets of post connectors, annual cleaning, and repairs to the battery box & mounts. Simply changing to an AGM type sealed battery costs more a bit more & avoids all those issues.
rScotty