Bypass filter on compact tractor?
- Thread starter j845125
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Soundguy
Old Timer
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- Mar 11, 2002
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Ahh.. I gotcha now.. starting viscosity.. etc.
Soundguy
Soundguy
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Thinner oil ( your manual will have a spec chart ).. and/ or a synthetic for year round use..
I don't personally use synthetics.. but believe they have a few 'one-ups' on 'regular' oil. I'm not into the extended changes.. i like to get the contaminants OUT of my engine.. but for regular changes.. It sounds fine.
It may be cheaper to go year round synthetic.. vs a winter weight / summer weight oil.. though I'm sure your engine would love the 2x yearly oil chages... etc. .. that's 2x as many chaces to get soot out of the engine..
Soundguy
I don't personally use synthetics.. but believe they have a few 'one-ups' on 'regular' oil. I'm not into the extended changes.. i like to get the contaminants OUT of my engine.. but for regular changes.. It sounds fine.
It may be cheaper to go year round synthetic.. vs a winter weight / summer weight oil.. though I'm sure your engine would love the 2x yearly oil chages... etc. .. that's 2x as many chaces to get soot out of the engine..
Soundguy
Soundguy said:
Soundguy said:
If I lived in Florida, I would not use synthetics either. The cold weather here can make oil flow like molasses.
Thanks for your help. Once I use up my Dino I will go with synthetic year round, assuming my owners manual so it is okay.
Bob
RonMar
Elite Member
j845125 said:
On a diesel, it would lower the overall contaminant level of the oil which could be a benefit if used in dusty conditions as most tractors are. As mentioned, it can lower the oil pressure slightly, but it is a pretty small orifice on the filter(the one I have here in my hand is around 1/16"). Since it is not in the main oil stream and only filters a small ammount of oil drawn off the main gallery, it dosn't matter if it flows or not so if it clogs, it won't hurt anything. But it will catch the stuff yor regular filter won't. Some of the installations I have seen take the oil from a pressure port like where the oil pressure sending unit is and return it to a swivel fitting installed into the oil filler cap. In the line near the oil filler cap is a clear body assembly like a clear inline fuel filter so you can see the oil flow. When you note that the oil flow is reduced/stopped, or the filter no longer gets warm from oil flow, then you change the filter. On a low use CUT, this could be a long time between filter changes. Another advantage on a low use tractor is that the time between oil changes can be long with a large number of heat cycles involved. This can lead to excessive condensation inside the engine and moisture buildup in the oil which combined with the byproducts of combustion can be corrosive. The cellulose media typically used in the bypass filters absorbs moisture also. So if it helps and you don't have to change it very often, I guess it comes down to how much it will cost you to put one together.
You can do it yourself for probably less than $50 depending on how good you are at scrounging hardware.
You can get a bypass filter base from Napa for around $30 (P/N 4755) and use either a Napa Gold 1050 filter (10 Micron) or a Baldwin B50 or B164 (2 micron, the 164 is a longer cannister). If you want the 2 micron filter, you want to use the baldwin filter, as some of the cross reference numbers to other suppliers such as Napa do not get you a 2 micron filter. I have seen prices quoted for these filters as low as $5, but none were over $10. The base and filter I have on the shelf cost me less than $40 and I already have most of the hose and hardware to install, I just need to get off my lazy butt and install it in my truck. I have also been contemplating one for my tractor. There is an interesting discussion on this over on thedieselstop.com
http://www.thedieselstop.com/archiv...7&page=107&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1.htm
