Just bought a C70 at auction, nice tractor but can't figure out how to get it to change ranges (it's currently in high range). It has two sticks to the left of the seat, one is the shifter (4 speed) and the other is forward/reverse selection. I looked on line for info (case/IH site was no help), manual is on order, I feel like an idiot but have no idea how to select low range. Can someone enlighten me ? Thanks !
C70 Hi/low range questions
- Thread starter RollinK
- Start date
- Views: 2546
It's a 8 speed, after looking at the online parts diagrams I think I have either a broken range selector lever or shift fork. There are two inputs to the transmission for range selection, when you move one you can feel resistance and hear movement inside the transmission. The other input moves very easily and doesn't seem to be connected to anything inside. I have manuals on order, hopefully we get some warmer weather so I can get this apart before spring.
Richard
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2000
- Messages
- 4,974
- Location
- Knoxville, TN
- Tractor
- International 1066 Full sized JCB Loader/Backhoe and a John Deere 430 to mow with
Last summer, I bought a 1066 open station. I have NO clue how that tractor might relate with yours so pardon me if I'm off base here...
Turns out, I had the sloppy shifter issue. To fix it, I had to remove the shift box on the right side of tractor, replace the parts in there (after beating the heck through the TA rod/hole to remove the cylinder those parts rode upon)
Decided to pull the lid off the shift area and in my specific case, I was missing the spring that was between the two levers, one detent wheel and the detent "knobs" looked to be a bit worn down. My (what I think was my park/lock shift fork also had a serious "dimple" in it where the rod would hang, keeping me locked in low/neutral and unable to go into high gear)
I decided to fix it all and though it's still not dialed in (I avoid working out in the cold since I CAN avoid working in the cold) but, I got a lot of the slop out of the shifters too by tightening up the little 90 degree elbow pieces that link the lever to the rods.
Still have some slop in there but just a little, especially compared to what it was.
Again, don't know if that might help but for me.... just some rudimentary tools and I got it done. The hardest part was removing the cylinder that the shift arms ride on and then....pounding back the replacement.
Oh, and INSIDE that cylinder is a bushing that I either had to purchase to replace (I think it was $40) or, use a (if I recall) 10mm socket that PERFECTLY fit the inside diameter of the cylinder and just tapped out the bushing.
Turns out, I had the sloppy shifter issue. To fix it, I had to remove the shift box on the right side of tractor, replace the parts in there (after beating the heck through the TA rod/hole to remove the cylinder those parts rode upon)
Decided to pull the lid off the shift area and in my specific case, I was missing the spring that was between the two levers, one detent wheel and the detent "knobs" looked to be a bit worn down. My (what I think was my park/lock shift fork also had a serious "dimple" in it where the rod would hang, keeping me locked in low/neutral and unable to go into high gear)
I decided to fix it all and though it's still not dialed in (I avoid working out in the cold since I CAN avoid working in the cold) but, I got a lot of the slop out of the shifters too by tightening up the little 90 degree elbow pieces that link the lever to the rods.
Still have some slop in there but just a little, especially compared to what it was.
Again, don't know if that might help but for me.... just some rudimentary tools and I got it done. The hardest part was removing the cylinder that the shift arms ride on and then....pounding back the replacement.
Oh, and INSIDE that cylinder is a bushing that I either had to purchase to replace (I think it was $40) or, use a (if I recall) 10mm socket that PERFECTLY fit the inside diameter of the cylinder and just tapped out the bushing.
Manuals arrived and it looks like I'll be pulling the top rear trans housing cover. Manual has some very good photo's of the Range and Reverse gearbox interior (it's behind the 4 speed gearbox) and it looks relatively simple. I think I can remove the rod that the shift forks ride on without splitting the tractor (I hope) to remove the shift forks and internal selector linkage, it's next up on the indoor project list so hopefully this get's resolved in the next couple weeks.
