Cannot Remove Jinma Glow Plugs

[Smalljobs]

I have my new plugs ready but cannot remove the old ones. I've unthreaded them until "finger loose" and even a little side play but they won't come out. I even tried vise grips with some upward force but I can't get it out? Any ideas? Tractor is cold and it's around 25 degrees. I plugged in my Kats heater to warm things up in hopes that they will release easier.

What am I doing wrong?

 

[greg_g]

Sounds like the bottom threads are clogged with soot/carbon. That means your pre-combustion (swirl) chambers might need to be at least cleaned - if not replaced. Having said that, I don't even know if they're replaceable on that engine.

Anyway, spray some PB Blaster (or WD40) around the base of the plugs. Hopefully that will soften things up enough to finish unthreading them. In addition to possible dirty chambers, don't forget you should ream the GP holes out too. Then - right before installing the new GPs - turn the engine over a few times to blow any excess cleaning fluid outa the cylinders.

//greg//

 

[Bob Rooks]

You're doing nothing wrong. Most likely they are carboned up on the tips. The gentlemanly fix for this is to squirt a small amount of diesel fuel around the plug to soften the carbon and then pull while rotating back and forth. If they are mushroomed at the tip you will have to remove the head or devise a mechanical puller. Third option (I've seen this done on a Perkins engine) is to loosen the glow plug and start the engine - stand clear and be ready to shut off the engine. It works.
:drool:

 

[Smalljobs]

Thks Greg and Bob - I now have three problems:
1. I got one out and it doesn't match the new one. I bought the new one according to PN and Rev# exactly as in the parts manual that came with my tractor.
2. My second problem is that took a picture of these but I never mastered posting of pictures. Maybe I can email picture to one you posters?
3. I now have to put the one plug back in and resolve the wrong parts problem.

 

[Smalljobs]

On the one plug I have out the copper o-ring is well extruded and I think it's the source of resistance to removal. Threads are all clean. I'll devise a simple puller to remove the other two that are fully unthreaded.

My dealer, Bolton Power, is a big help and he's seen the two different types of plugs and thinks my new ones will fit. It's just that they will thread deeper into the head. I'll remove the copper washer and see if I can bottom out the new ones easily. If so, I should be all set.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Curious if you had the wrong plugs in there in the first place. Was it mushroomed at all? Check to make sure it doesn't contact the piston.

 

[SPIKER]

Small jobs

BOB ROOKS said it same way as you need. I had the same issues as far as wrong glow plugs. I bought 2 spare sets when I bought my tractor and they didnt match the ones I pulled out. (I soaked a bit of fuel into mine to loosen them.) I filled up the chambers with a fuel trans-fluid mix and then used a break bleeder vacuum tool to suck out the excess oil then cranked it over to finish off the evac. I got new plugs through AFFORDABLE if I remember right. I provided measurements of the old ones to get the correct new ones. I still have one set of the old non-fitting NEW plugs though one copper washer fell off in the yard when I carried them back if you can provide measurements I will let em go cheap.

Marl

 

[Smalljobs]

Job is done! The new plugs were same distance from tip of electrode to copper seal washer. The outer connector end threads deeper into the head. I first checked them by hand with no washer to see if they could reach the seat without any problems - all was OK.

I just finished the install and a cold start tomorrow will be the last checkpoint.

The old plugs were all intact and only tight due to the copper seal ring sticking in the bore. All plugs came out with rings intact.

Here's how I got them out:
1) fully unthread them
2) Attached vise grip to hex shank
3) Attached 2nd vise grip crosswise on handle of first vise grip
4) Tap under 2nd vise grip, rotate plug a little, and it just pops out.

 

[greg_g]

Bet it feels good to get a job like that done - congratulations. Hopefully you remembered that - any time GPs are replaced on any diesel - the female threads should be reamed. AND any time GPs are removed, even for inspection, anti-seize compound should be applied to the male threads.

Bob - pretty sure we're talking indirect injection engine here. GPs install into pre-combustion/swirl chambers, not the actual combustion chamber as in direct injection engines. I think I'd probably win the PowerBall before a GP would get nailed by the piston heads in an indirect injection engine

//greg//

 

[Bob Rooks]

Bet it feels good to get a job like that done - congratulations. Hopefully you remembered that - any time GPs are replaced on any diesel - the female threads should be reamed. AND any time GPs are removed, even for inspection, anti-seize compound should be applied to the male threads.

Bob - pretty sure we're talking indirect injection engine here. GPs install into pre-combustion/swirl chambers, not the actual combustion chamber as in direct injection engines. I think I'd probably win the PowerBall before a GP would get nailed by the piston heads in an indirect injection engine

//greg//

Yep, my bad. I didn't know what engine y'all were talkin' bout anyways since both DI and IDI engines can have glow plugs.
Glad you got it done Steve, good luck.:thumbsup: