Two months ago I bought a Case 444. The gentleman said it was a 1976 came with a snowblower and mower deck. All is in nice shape. The problem is motor over heats, and sounds like rods coming through bottom of motor after snowblowing for about 10 minutes. Does anyone have an idea of what the problem could be?
Tractor Info:
Model number: K321A
Spec. Number: 60294d
Serial Number: 7300228
14 hp kohler engine
Thanks, Dave.
Yes. You do have a 1976 444.
Engine overheating can be caused by a number of things. Only YOU can figure out which ONE or which combination is the root cause of the problem. The way you do that is to have the tractor in a warm shop so you can work on it in comfort. This is not a simple process nor is it one that should be done in haste due to cold temps.
One of the most common causes is MICE that build nests inside the metal shrouds of the engine. The flywheel at the front of the engine has fan blades cast into it. Air is sucked through the metal screen on the front of the metal shroud by this fan and then directed across the cooling fins that are cast into the cylinder block and head. Anything that interferes with the air flow will cause the engine to run hotter than it should. Sorry, but in order to eliminate this potential problem, you must remove all the shrouding. You should also shine a strong light into the cooling fins on the block to see if they are 100 percent clean.
Go to Kohler.com and find the Service Manual for the K-Series engines. You need to set the valves and you should also remove the cylinder head to perform decarbonizing of the combustion chamber in the head, the top of the piston and the underside of the valves. A new head gasket will be required. The threads of the head bolts will have to be wire-brushed clean and then lightly lubricated with motor oil prior to reinstallation. You will also need a torque wrench to tighten the head bolts. Torque specs and tightening sequence can be found in the manual.
The points should be examined. They should have flat surfaces so that they contact one another fully. If the points are well-worn, then install new ones along with a new condenser. Follow the instructions in the manual for setting the points.
Most likely, if the engine ran nicely at all RPM's, the carb is not a problem. However, it is a good idea to remove the float bowl carefully to see if there is any dirt or moisture laying in the bottom. Adding some Seafoam to the gas tank in accordance with the instructions on the can is a good idea.
Make sure that the spark plug that is in the engine is the correct one. The wrong heat range can cause an engine to overheat. Gap the plug according to spec. IF the plug wire and cap look suspect in any way, replace with a new one. Just be sure that there is real wire inside the lead and not that carbonized fibre junk used in autos.
The plastic fan on the front of the clutch is there to move air across the oil cooler. A missing fan or a fan missing blades isn't doing its job and should be replaced. Oil that is not properly cooled will cause the temps under the hood to rise and contribute to engine overheating.
Change the engine oil. If the tractor is kept indoors where the temps hover around the freezing point or just above, then stick with straight 30 weight oil. If it is subjected to sub-freezing temps, the choose 10W30 motor oil and always, always, always.... check the oil level prior to using the tractor. Keep the level as close to the mark on the dipstick as you can. These engines have a small oil pan with little reserve oil.
When you have done all these things, then put the tractor back to some hard work. When the work is over, shut the engine off immediately, pull the spark plug and examine it. Google "reading a spark plug" for information on what to look for and what certain things mean. The spark plug can tell you a lot about what's going on inside an engine when it comes to heat and air/fuel mixture.
This tractor is brand new to you and you need to obtain a base line of service for it so that you know what was done and when it was done. Right now, everything is suspect so bringing everything back into proper spec narrows the list of "engine criminals" down considerably. Kohlers are famous for "Kohler knock" and perhaps that is partly what you are hearing. Sometimes, that can be reduced or eliminated by a slight change to the point gap.
If you need further help, you can send me a PM if you wish.
