case 580d cylinder question

chrisdvorak · Mar 13, 2013

On my case 580D some of the cylinders have a small screw in the end cap of them, what does this screw do? I thought it may be there to keep the end cap from loosening but not all the cylinders have it.

BukitCase · Mar 13, 2013

Don't remember if all the cyl's on my 580B have them, but that's what they're for - in my experience, the little hole will NOT line up after you re-seal your cylinders. Not sure why.

Are yours leaking, or just curiosity? Steve

chrisdvorak · Mar 13, 2013

well, both they are leaking a bit but I'm rebuilding the stabilizer cyl now and it doesn't have a screw in it so I wanted to know if there was a different way to rebuild or bleed the other cylinders.

gaspumpcity · Mar 13, 2013

Only thing I can think of someone used screw to lock gland in place bleeding is done by opening and closing control valve from the cylinder to the tank from the return line. To get the cylinder cap off use a spaner wrench. I use hot water to aid gland seal installation.If the rod has crome damage the new seal wont last long.

NELS1 · Mar 14, 2013

My 680h has both screw on some cylinders and some of them just have a plastic thread lock on the inside . The plastic fits in a hole in the gland and squishes into the threads as it is being tightened. Hope I explained it to your understanding. But both are there to lock the gland in place

azrancher · Apr 1, 2013

gaspumpcity said:
I use hot water to aid gland seal installation.

How about a heat gun on those gland seal, I think I just ruined one last weekend.

Rancher

wdchyd · Apr 1, 2013

NELS1 said:
.................. But both are there to lock the gland in place

After repack, you can redrill if they don't line up again or just reuse the old holes

wdchyd · Apr 1, 2013

azrancher said:
How about a heat gun on those gland seal, I think I just ruined one last weekend.

Rancher

No, don't use heat gun..!!

Hot water only (boil it without the seal in the microwave, then add seal after it comes out)

If you have a clean pair of needle nose pliers to donate, you can make a good tool to help install the seal (long slender is best)..........use a grinder and a sander to remove the sharp edges on the two jaws all the way up to the hinge.....round it out, smooth and poilshed, no sharp edges

when installing the seal, put one side in the groove (hold in place with finger), then use the custom pliers to grab the opposite side that is still outside the groove, then twist the pliers 180 degrees (while the other side of seal is still in the groove)

With a little practice you'll realize there is no need to warm the seal, it'll go in two seconds, one shot.......DONE.....:cool2:

azrancher · Apr 3, 2013

wdchyd said:
when installing the seal, put one side in the groove (hold in place with finger), then use the custom pliers to grab the opposite side that is still outside the groove, then twist the pliers 180 degrees (while the other side of seal is still in the groove)

Do you have a picture of your special tool?

I only have trouble on the small cylinders... 2" size, I got it 75% in the groove and used a blunt screwdrive to pop it in. I don't think that was my problem, it was when I was re-installed the rod, I think it had a sharp edge and ripped the gland.

Rancher