Case 75c going dead after cold start attempt

[ego260]

I have a 2023 Case 75c. It’s in Wisconsin and it’s been very cold. When I go to start the tractor I run the glow plugs 3-4 times, then crank the tractor. It usually won’t start on the first crank, and the whole tractor, dash included goes dead. I have to reset the tractor by disconnecting and reconnecting the negative battery terminal and trying to start again. The tractor will eventually start, but what could be causing this and how do I trouble shoot it?

 

[nyone]

Could be a bad battery. Bring it some where to have it tested.

 

[Harry in Ky]

I have a 2023 Case 75c. It’s in Wisconsin and it’s been very cold. When I go to start the tractor I run the glow plugs 3-4 times, then crank the tractor. It usually won’t start on the first crank, and the whole tractor, dash included goes dead. I have to reset the tractor by disconnecting and reconnecting the negative battery terminal and trying to start again. The tractor will eventually start, but what could be causing this and how do I trouble shoot it?

Bad Battery? Maybe, but it sounds more like bad battery CONNECTION. A bad battery doesn't temporarily heal when a cable comes off and goes back on. Disassemble, clean, and inspect all four battery cable connections before replacing anything.

 

[etpm]

I have a 2023 Case 75c. It’s in Wisconsin and it’s been very cold. When I go to start the tractor I run the glow plugs 3-4 times, then crank the tractor. It usually won’t start on the first crank, and the whole tractor, dash included goes dead. I have to reset the tractor by disconnecting and reconnecting the negative battery terminal and trying to start again. The tractor will eventually start, but what could be causing this and how do I trouble shoot it?

I would bet money that you have a bad connection. Probably the negative battery cable to the frame. Just because it is tight don't assume it is good. Your symptom of everything going dead is a classic example of a bad connection. You should take off the negative cable and clean both the cable lug and the frame until they are bright. You should also make sure the negative battery connection is good. This means cleaning the battery post and the inside of the clamp on the end of the negative cable until the metal is bright. While you're at it do the same to the positive cable. Also feel the battery cables near the battery. If the cables feel soft near the battery but hard away from the battery then the cable is probably corroded inside. Finally, after the next failed starting attempt feel the battery cables. If one is hot, especially near the battery, this indicates a high resistance situation, most likely from internal corrosion. Check the positive first.
Eric

 

[ego260]

I would bet money that you have a bad connection. Probably the negative battery cable to the frame. Just because it is tight don't assume it is good. Your symptom of everything going dead is a classic example of a bad connection. You should take off the negative cable and clean both the cable lug and the frame until they are bright. You should also make sure the negative battery connection is good. This means cleaning the battery post and the inside of the clamp on the end of the negative cable until the metal is bright. While you're at it do the same to the positive cable. Also feel the battery cables near the battery. If the cables feel soft near the battery but hard away from the battery then the cable is probably corroded inside. Finally, after the next failed starting attempt feel the battery cables. If one is hot, especially near the battery, this indicates a high resistance situation, most likely from internal corrosion. Check the positive first.
Eric

It was a bad connection at the negative. I think some moisture got in between the post and cable connection some how. I took the cable off, scrubbed it with a wire brush and I haven’t had a problem since.

 

[etpm]

Thanks for letting us all know. Besides being courteous is it important. Your problem was a very common problem. A bad connection. And usually it is the negative connection. And it would be great if folks knew this. The huge clue is that everything goes dead when attempting starting. This commonly means that there is a bad connection and this bad connection is usually on the negative side in a negative ground machine. I am starting to think there should be a forum for your exact problem because it is so common. Thanks again for letting us all know that you discovered the problem and that more than one person diagnosed the problem correctly and also provided a correct solution.
Eric

Bad Battery? Maybe, but it sounds more like bad battery CONNECTION. A bad battery doesn't temporarily heal when a cable comes off and goes back on. Disassemble, clean, and inspect all four battery cable connections before replacing anything.

You were correct in your diagnosis according to a post by the OP. This is such a common problem. It keeps coming up.
Eric

 

[rScotty]

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It was a bad connection at the negative. I think some moisture got in between the post and cable connection some how. I took the cable off, scrubbed it with a wire brush and I haven’t had a problem since.

Thanks for the update. I've been having a similar problem on my Kubota. Nice to know I'm not the only one.

In just a month or two, at the negative battery post connection a dark varnish forms between the post and connector that stops the current after one crank. It is hard enough to be difficult to wire brush away. Scraping works better.

The positive post just gets the familiar white powdery corrosion & cleans up easily.

So far this doesn't happen on our older tractors and cars that have copper ground (-) straps to the frame. Also, on those the clamp to the battery post is the old style soft lead cable end. Not sure which one helps most, maybe both.

In the last years, we tried several different aftermarket post connectors including some for marine service - but with no better results. The red/green chemical pads do nothing.

Anyone got an answer?

rScotty

 

[old bubblehead]

(NO-OX-ID Electrical Contact Grease- Conductive Lubricant | Sanchem, Inc.) This one's easy. Using really fine sandpaper oh say 500 or 1000 grit, sand all the varnish off the effected connectors, get to shiny metal. If the connector is at all iffy, replace it, they're cheep. If it looks like the negative terminal has corrosion on it, baking soda and water, and a toothbrush. You need to get rid of every single bit of the corrosion, and varnish. Then put the new connector on if needed, tighten it down to at least 40 foot pounds... You want this sucker SNUG. Then using the No-ox in the above link coat everything that isn't covered in insulation with about a 1/8th to 1/4 inch of this stuff. That will seal it. No Oxygen, no corrosion. We used this technique for Navy batteries, because saltwater, oxygen, and batteries don't get along well together. The chemical post things are nigh on to worthless.
The varnish that's forming is just a different oxidation, Lead oxide is white, This sounds like aluminum magnesium plated steel corrosion.
What ever the plating, No Ox will help.