OP
David-Davies
Silver Member
Art I'm using DMO 15-40. It's a petrocan product, I've been using it in my 6.2 dual crewcab for 12 years now. The API rating is extensive CC CD CF CE ect.......
Case IH D 179 new motor low oil pressure
- Thread starter David-Davies
- Start date
- Views: 13453
Hooked_on_HP
Veteran Member
I'm not a fan of plasti guage. If the engine is in the tractor and you put the plasti guage on the lower bearing, the weight of the crank will flatten the plasti guage and give you an inacurate reading. I know this from experience. I rebuilt an engine and put standard bearings in it and was having the same problems you are .I took the pan off with the engine still in and used plasti guage to check the clearances. It showerd .003. Ended up taking the engine out and taking it apart.When we checked the crank with a mic we found out it was cut .010. I set the crank back in with the standard bearings and the engine upside down.I put plasti guage on the lower bearing and torqued it down. It didn't flatten the plasti guage a bit. HP=horse power.
Bill
Bill
mattman
Gold Member
Sine you are taking the motor apart to get the cam out and get the bearings put in I would take everything to the machine shop and have them check it over. A good machine shop that is. Don't want to get it put back together only to find a another problem right after start up. I hate folks that are in abusiness yet they do a half way job of fixing something. If you have a motor apart I say put all new bearings. Need to check the camshaft also for wear. Running a motor low on oil is very hard on bearings.
OP
David-Davies
Silver Member
Hooked on HP When you plasticguage a crank from under neath you must jack the crank up, at the front and rear, [pully & flywheel] for the rods, I grab them with vice grips tap the vice grips lightly with a hammer. This will set the rod tight to the crank, carefully reinstall holding the rod tight to the crank. Use the nuts to draw the cap tight, torgue. Remove by tapping vice grips. You can also replace the bolt in the vice grips with ready rod and make a slide hammer.
OP
David-Davies
Silver Member
Mattman Every thing in that motor was new, right down to the bushings in the rocker arms. I asked that new cam bearings be installed, but was told that they were good, no need to change them. So after putting it all together, I didn't have good oil pressure. SO One hour to remove loader, four hours to remove the engine, four hours to disasemble the engine, five hours to reassemble the engine, four hours to install the engine, one hour to attch the loader, $650 for the gasket set. The new cam bearings $149, installation cost $475. The bearings have to be machined to fit the cam. I'm a little P O ed It's a good thing that I can fix things myself.
Hooked_on_HP
Veteran Member
I have never heard of machining cam bearings. In a gas engine the cam bearing are numbered and have to be installed in the corect location for the cam to fit. How do they machine them, with a line bore machine.
Bill
Bill
OP
David-Davies
Silver Member
Bill. Yes they have a special line bore, IH and Vovlo are the only two that still do this, so finding someone that can do this is hard to find. I'm lucky that I didn't have to drive 100 miles to Victoria to have this done. They sole the equipment to Tomson Machine in Nanimo, only 50 miles away. Dave.
OP
David-Davies
Silver Member
Your not going to belive this. After I got my block back from the machine shop, I was putting it all back together. Having already run the engine, I had to clean every thing, [oil+dust]. When I got the pistions -rods from the machine shop in town, they were fully asembled, with the rod bearings and pistions instaled, When I removed the bearing shells from #2 conrod,[that's the bearing that spun] the piotion end of the rod looked like corrgated steel. The grooves were 1/32" deep with no flat surfaces. I allmost had a stroke. When the Nanamio machine shop got the rod, they phoned me. Our loco machine shop didn't resize the conrod, he just ground the cap, they said that he had asked them to grind the crank .001 thousand under size [to match the rod], and he didn't replace the wrist pin bushing and it was shot. so I had to take my crank out again, and take it to Nanimo along with the outher two conrods, [witch he also ground the caps to match] I thought that I had better check the rocker arm bushings, to see if he had changed them. **** NO. I'm so lucky that he didn't change the cam bearings. If that motor had had good oil pressure, I would have used it, and it would have come apart with in hours, and I'd have to do it all over agan.
Dave
Dave
Hooked_on_HP
Veteran Member
If they just ground the cap and didn't hone the rod the bore would be egg shaped. Are you shure this is a machine shop. Sounds more like a butcher shop. Are you still confident useing plastiguage. This would have shown up useing a dial bore guage.
Bill
Bill
OP
David-Davies
Silver Member
Hey Bill. plastiguage is only a reference tool only. I take every thing to a machine shop. I'm not a machinest, I'm a mechanic, [a very spoiled mechanic] The in town machine shop that I was dealling with, I told him that I expect all work to be perfect, or the best solution possible, and I would never deal with him again if he messed up. To think that I took 17, 6.2 engines to him in the last two years, now I'm concerned, if he didn't resize my con rod, he probably didn't resize any of them, close enught. He has the proper pin hole grinder and cap grinder, It's not like he doesn't have the proper tools, he's just lazy.
Dave
Dave
