Cast iron (ear) welding repair attempt on engine

[sd455dan]

Got a Buick V6 in trade to help my son (shoe horn) a 350 Olds in to a 3rd gen Camaro.

The V6 had the left top engine to transmission ear snapped off at some point in the past.

Wanted to give repairing (building up) a new mount a try.

I have only tried repairing 1 other cast project - mig welding a cracked intake back together.

bought a couple sticks of 1/8 rod for cast iron at the local Co-Op- and all he knew was the sticks were for cast, they were marked NA 111

The only reference I could find to these rods was an old post by Shieldarc and Yomax. Thinking these were on the shelf for a long time. but sounded like they were a good repair rod that was also machinable.

Anyway ground out the sides and since there was about 1/2 of the threads left on the bottom it occurred to me that if I could find a piece of tube or round stock of aluminum or another metal that the cast rod would not stick to it might save some time and work trying to bore and re-thread the hole.

I did find a piece of tubing and clamped it in place hooked up my little 3 in 1 inverter found a chart that said to run cast rod DC+ tried 1 short weld on an old junk head to get the amps close and did a little local pre heat.

Ran single 1/2 inch beads and worked my way around the tube after letting each weld cool while peening the beads.

Did get some inclusions but can't find any actual cracks

it is not pretty but after a bit of grinding and light drilling was able to run a tap through it.

Again Not pretty for sure- but I think it will work.
And it was fun trying a new new stick welding process.

 

[yomax4]

I think it's awesome that you took the bull by the horns and fixed this damage. Next time try using a piece of carbon stick in the hole and weld around that. It works very nice. Turned out good as far as pics go. I'm wondering if you could add a little rod around the base of the eye without it tweeking or cracking or maybe you did. It will likely not be a perfect alignment but as long as you don't reef down on the bolt too much it should hold. Maybe less torque on that one with locktite blue or something? Good Luck !!!

 

[LouNY]

Good looking repair

 

[sd455dan]

I think it's awesome that you took the bull by the horns and fixed this damage. Next time try using a piece of carbon stick in the hole and weld around that. It works very nice. Turned out good as far as pics go. I'm wondering if you could add a little rod around the base of the eye without it tweeking or cracking or maybe you did. It will likely not be a perfect alignment but as long as you don't reef down on the bolt too much it should hold. Maybe less torque on that one with locktite blue or something? Good Luck !!!

Thanks Yomax Yeah-I almost chickened out and just left it alone

but decided to go ahead even though there is a possibility of cracking. Sometimes the urge to weld
and just try something new is hard to suppress:laughing:

i will likely get another rod or 2 of the smaller NA111 3/32 rods this time and add a bit more around the base. Still wondering if this is Kast-weld 111? It is pricey, Co-op is selling it for $55 a lb.

Someday I would like to try Mig with 309 Stainless that shieldarc linked to in the thread- sounds pretty slick for home type repairs

time sure flies by

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/264666-cast-iron-repair-my-education.html

I am definitely in the (Really) clueless crowd concerning cast iron repair, but will continue to read up and watch vids trying to learn. shieldarc always does pretty well for an amateur.

The more reading i do on Cast iron repair the more it reminds me of an old saying about carburetors

The more you know, The more you know you don't know.

Thanks for the tip on carbon rods being used to keep part of a castings hole in place. Sounds like a great way to do it.

 

[yomax4]

Kastweld 111 is an Oxy-fuel rod made out of ground up and pressed cast iron.. Pretty cool stuff too but works best with a few strands of copper speaker wire wrapped around it and the dipped in it's flux. If your weld hasn't cracked yet, You are out of the woods. All I can add is I'd be very conservative on torque when you pull against the bell housing. You probably know that but that's my only concern. If it's not a perfect flush fit, I'd hold my breath while tightening. Go easy lol.. I hope it works out..

 

[yomax4]

Thanks Yomax Yeah-I almost chickened out and just left it alone

but decided to go ahead even though there is a possibility of cracking. Sometimes the urge to weld
and just try something new is hard to suppress:laughing:

i will likely get another rod or 2 of the smaller NA111 3/32 rods this time and add a bit more around the base. Still wondering if this is Kast-weld 111? It is pricey, Co-op is selling it for $55 a lb.

Someday I would like to try Mig with 309 Stainless that shieldarc linked to in the thread- sounds pretty slick for home type repairs

time sure flies by

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/264666-cast-iron-repair-my-education.html

I am definitely in the (Really) clueless crowd concerning cast iron repair, but will continue to read up and watch vids trying to learn. shieldarc always does pretty well for an amateur.

The more reading i do on Cast iron repair the more it reminds me of an old saying about carburetors

The more you know, The more you know you don't know.

Thanks for the tip on carbon rods being used to keep part of a castings hole in place. Sounds like a great way to do it.

Reading about the NA 111 it sounds a lot like the old Super Missile Weld rods that JW Harris has. I have a bunch of that.. I'll have a friend cross it over tomorrow.

 

[sd455dan]

Reading about the NA 111 it sounds a lot like the old Super Missile Weld rods that JW Harris has. I have a bunch of that.. I'll have a friend cross it over tomorrow.

i tried internet searching for the rod but couldn't find anything ,
so when i went back to Co-Op wrote down what was on the plastic sheave it was in.

rod came from Agri-Tool and Supply and their history is in welding products made in the northwest USA.

looks like this company actually does produce their own welding rods??

History of Agri-Tool & Supply
After 18 years of working for a leading manufacturer of welding alloys specialising in maintenance and repair, in 1984 Larry Schmedding formed Agri-Tool & Supply to incorporate new ideas and improve welding type products.

After many years of research and testing, Agri-Tool & Supply introduced "Perfect Pass Welding Products". Growing just one step at a time, Perfect Pass has continued to expand its product lines to include: Stick Electrodes, Wire Products, Powders, and TIG Torch Rods.

Agri-Tool & Supply started building Sawmill, and De-Barker parts, out of a High Alloy Casting. This market has expanded over the years, even through difficult times for the lumber industry.

Throughout the years, Agri-Tool & Supply and Perry Points of Fort Benton, MT have worked together on many different welding and wear control parts. Upon the death of Mr. Loran Perry, Agri-Tool & Supply acquired Perry Points to form a successful merger of the two companies.

All of our products and castings have been and will continue to be made in the Pacific Northwest. Agri-Tool & Supply makes a conscience effort to use USA home-grown products.



found the rod description in their products listing

PERFECT PASS NA111

Has a specially formulated coating that gives a pulsed arc for low temperature welding of cast irons. When properly applied, the arc will penetrate surface skin and contaminants to produce a porosity free weld.
The heat affected zone is not hardened and stress cracks are almost always avoided.
Use for low temperature welding of cast iron in all positions, joining cast iron to steel, iron, stainless steel, copper, Monel, etc., as well as on engine blocks, gear housing and machine bases.

Also ideal for filling holes and building up worn or missing sections which must be machined to final dimension after welding.

Available in 1/8" Diameter - For other sizes and weights, please call or e-mail for quote.

$59.95 - PRICE IS PER POUND (2lb. minimum)

bought another rod to add a bit more material - looks like this a 1 off product
Still don't see where they suggest AC or DC+/- as the method for best results.

The PERFECT PASS KOOL KAST 2089 looks interesting to and mentions a copper/nickel core but even pricier than the NA111
actually sounds like it may have been a better choice than the 111 rod for this repair.
Agra-Tool and supply does seem to have some unique offerings in welding rod and wire.

 

[yomax4]

Yes, The further you dig, The more you find on specialty rods. There are a ton of cool ones out there. I used to sell MG and JW Harris / Welco filler metals in the old days.. When Lincoln bought JW Harris back in the early 2000's Most of us bailed and went on to other things. Some of the old JW Harris guys started up the same type of company called Weldcote Metals and they sold / sell a lot of the old specialty rods. I like Super 120 and 83/88 to name a few. MG I like MG500 and 80TAC. MG used to have a hard surface rod that you could run a bead with one hand and feed another rod with the other. Seems like it was 6065? 1990's memory so may be off a bit.

 

[Masseymad18]

Nicely done OP!

My neighbor wants me to weld up a hair line crack on the rear of his old ferguson tractor where a bolt was over tightened. it trhoughs our a little bit of oil The crack is about 3 inches long. The housing is about what 3/4 inch.

Cast is nothiing im familiar with so Im not to exicted about doing it, defo agree the more you read the less you dont want to know as Ive read its pretty easy to fracture or blow a hole in the iron so done want that happening. Some say to put the rods in the oven before using some say to heat up the area but not to much. Use low amps regardless of the thickness?

I was practicing at the weeked on an old cast lid i tracked a groove with the grinder and welded it up, I tried both heating and not heating it at different stages. that whached it with a hammer a few times as the bugger of a hair line appeared on each side where had tracked it.?

 

[yomax4]

Cast is a high maintenence repair. So many variables. Drilling holes at the ends of the cracks & filler metal choice are key. Then where the part is going to be used. Flex/Twist, Combustion area, Normal temp at the weld, Type of base metal, The list goes on.