3-Point Hitch Cat2 Hyd Top Link on Cat1 3pt

[Beeenvenue]

I am still new to tractors. Love my Kioti 3510HSE, which comes with dual remotes and a cat 1 manual top link. I am looking to upgrade to an hydraulic top link. For marginally more (20% or less) I can purchase a cat2 top link instead of a cat1. I know I would need to add bushings but is there any reason NOT to do so? On the surface it seems like I would end up with a more rugged, robust system.

Specific to the SE (but the overall question is general) is which remote and remote operator to use. I know they are different; which would be best used with a top link that does not have the locking dual-spool built in?

 

[MechanicalGuy]

I got a cat 2/1 for my mx5200 at AGRISTORE USA | Agristore USA

I don't know how people run a box blade without one.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

This is the one:

Category 1/2 Hydraulic Top Link: 25 9/16" - 39 15/16" | AGRISTORE USA

 

[3Lfarms]

You will probably have a hard time getting the pin through the rod end on the tractor because the pin hole is larger and therefore the rod end is much larger and stronger than a cat 1. The body of the rod end on the cylinder will probably hit the back side of the top link hole bracket before you can get the pin in.

My cat2 hydraulic top link had to be clearanced a little bit to clear on my Cat 2 LS tractor.

If you special order a top link, maybe you can specify a rod end that works with your tractor.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Check the specs on the cylinder size, rod diameter and such, depending on what brand your buying very possibly it all the same just different size pin diameter.

The BIG thing to check is the top link bracket on the tractor for enough clearance and width to fit a cat 2 link.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

My link has a cat 1 tractor end and a cat2 implement end.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I am still new to tractors. Love my Kioti 3510HSE, which comes with dual remotes and a cat 1 manual top link. I am looking to upgrade to an hydraulic top link. For marginally more (20% or less) I can purchase a cat2 top link instead of a cat1. I know I would need to add bushings but is there any reason NOT to do so? On the surface it seems like I would end up with a more rugged, robust system.

Specific to the SE (but the overall question is general) is which remote and remote operator to use. I know they are different; which would be best used with a top link that does not have the locking dual-spool built in?

I doubt that you will get a cat 2 end to fit, diameter or width wise without some serious modifications. With around a 2000lb lift capability at the pins of the draft links on the 3pt hitch, there is simply no good reason to have anything other than a cat 1 unit.

I typically provide an 18"-25" working length for the CK10 series tractors. Use the spring return to center valve for your top link control.